Steering shaft U joint replacement.
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Steering shaft U joint replacement.
Is there a good source for these? Does anyone rebuild them or know where to get a rebuild kit? I was looking at the VW aftermarket stuff and have found sources for the universal joints for both splines and smooth shaft's I was actually thinking that I could just order two U joints then cut off the ones on my shaft (not shortening the shaft) and then drill and bolt on the new ones. I could weld it if needed. The cost of new universal joints is about $35 each plus shipping. Not the best option but at the moment getting new ones of these does not seem to be an option.
Does anyone know the spline count and diameter of the shafts on both the steering column and on the rack? That would be a big help if I have to got the rehab my own rout. I would prefer not to do it that way if there is a source for these.
Many thanks!!!
Does anyone know the spline count and diameter of the shafts on both the steering column and on the rack? That would be a big help if I have to got the rehab my own rout. I would prefer not to do it that way if there is a source for these.
Many thanks!!!
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I am not trying to upgrade I am trying to come up with a way to use new parts to make the repair. I was thinking that the VW steering u joints could possibly be an option. It is really a simple part to fabricate and since I have the equipment needed to make the part I thought it may be a good option.
The math as I see it. (worst case)
1. 2 universal joints (VW based) will cost about $70
2. a piece of 5/8 steel rod (about 18 inches long) $20
3. Two grade eight nuts and bolts $5 (ya I know but it makes the math easy)
How hard could it be to take the old one out make a jig based on the original so the orientation of the U joints are maintained and the overall length of the piece is the same. Then lay in the jig the new U joints and the steel shaft. Drill a hole through the steel rod to accept the bolt from the new U joint. I would also weld them in place as well. Welding and bolting is a "belt and suspenders" type fabrication but considering it is a steering component it would make me feel better.
I have found "new" complete shaft assemblies at 944online but they are approaching $300. I have asked around about used ones but considering the age of them now (20 plus years in some cases) coming up with a way to use new or rebuilt parts seemed to be an option worth exploring. But yes used is definitely an option. If some one had one I would be interested.
If I can get the specs on the splined shafts I can then see if the u joints are off the shelf VW parts. If they are available fabrication of the part is simple. Once I made one I could easly make 10.
The math as I see it. (worst case)
1. 2 universal joints (VW based) will cost about $70
2. a piece of 5/8 steel rod (about 18 inches long) $20
3. Two grade eight nuts and bolts $5 (ya I know but it makes the math easy)
How hard could it be to take the old one out make a jig based on the original so the orientation of the U joints are maintained and the overall length of the piece is the same. Then lay in the jig the new U joints and the steel shaft. Drill a hole through the steel rod to accept the bolt from the new U joint. I would also weld them in place as well. Welding and bolting is a "belt and suspenders" type fabrication but considering it is a steering component it would make me feel better.
I have found "new" complete shaft assemblies at 944online but they are approaching $300. I have asked around about used ones but considering the age of them now (20 plus years in some cases) coming up with a way to use new or rebuilt parts seemed to be an option worth exploring. But yes used is definitely an option. If some one had one I would be interested.
If I can get the specs on the splined shafts I can then see if the u joints are off the shelf VW parts. If they are available fabrication of the part is simple. Once I made one I could easly make 10.
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On another note it looks like the spline count and shaft size on our cars is a special fitment. The cheapest I can get a steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40 could U joint is around $75 each add in a double D shaft at $20 and you are at 170 plus shipping. This is still less than a new one but much more than the $75-$100 that I was originally looking at. I would be interested in pulling my old shaft out and seeing if there is a source for the bearings.
After discussing the rebuild process with another board member it seems that unless you have access to a machine shop to ream the openings clean it is probably not a DIY job. But could easily be done by a shop the rebuilds these U joints.
On another note it looks like the spline count and shaft size on our cars is a special fitment. The cheapest I can get a steel u-joints 3/4DD X 11/16-40 could U joint is around $75 each add in a double D shaft at $20 and you are at 170 plus shipping. This is still less than a new one but much more than the $75-$100 that I was originally looking at. I would be interested in pulling my old shaft out and seeing if there is a source for the bearings.
After discussing the rebuild process with another board member it seems that unless you have access to a machine shop to ream the openings clean it is probably not a DIY job. But could easily be done by a shop the rebuilds these U joints.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Not wanting to be provocative, but I would rather go second-hand than DIY rebuilt. Steering is quite important to me!
Over here, if you did what you are proposing, your insurance would be void... however I understand where you are coming from.
I bought a new steering shaft from Sunset - had an idea it was more like $160 though.
Cheers,
Mike
Over here, if you did what you are proposing, your insurance would be void... however I understand where you are coming from.
I bought a new steering shaft from Sunset - had an idea it was more like $160 though.
Cheers,
Mike
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I agree with your comments and this is not something that some one that has not done this type of thing before should consider. My engineering background and experience in race car construction makes me comfortable doing it.
After further research last night I have come to the conclusion that if I was to make one I would use a double D shaft or better yet a splined shaft with mechanical attachment. After thinking about thigns and some conversations with another list member using a smooth shaft and a through bolt puts loads on such a small surface area that it really is not a good (or safe) option.
I also have issues with respect to welding the U joints to the shafts and it resulting embrittlement of the metal. Particularly that of the U joint Yoke that you would have to be welding to. You could get around this by machining a shaft with the U joint yokes (as a single piece) but there are a host of problems with this that I will not even get in to. So after all this I see the options as.
1. Rebuild a factory unit with new bearings. (I am going to pursue this further)
2. Build one from U joints that use either a splined shaft or a double D shaft and mechanical attachment of the U joint to the shaft. (This can be done for about $170 or so) But you still have to assemble it. I see this as a good option consideration (and a safe one) And since the cost of a new one s about $300 it is also financially a decent alternative. This is the setup that Borgeson sells and looks to be a very good quality product.
I was hoping to find s less expensive source for the U joints but the spline count on our cars is such that there does not appear to be another supplier for them. The VW U joins are really cheep in comparison. Between $30 and $35 but they do not appear to have a unit that could be made to fit our cars.
After further research last night I have come to the conclusion that if I was to make one I would use a double D shaft or better yet a splined shaft with mechanical attachment. After thinking about thigns and some conversations with another list member using a smooth shaft and a through bolt puts loads on such a small surface area that it really is not a good (or safe) option.
I also have issues with respect to welding the U joints to the shafts and it resulting embrittlement of the metal. Particularly that of the U joint Yoke that you would have to be welding to. You could get around this by machining a shaft with the U joint yokes (as a single piece) but there are a host of problems with this that I will not even get in to. So after all this I see the options as.
1. Rebuild a factory unit with new bearings. (I am going to pursue this further)
2. Build one from U joints that use either a splined shaft or a double D shaft and mechanical attachment of the U joint to the shaft. (This can be done for about $170 or so) But you still have to assemble it. I see this as a good option consideration (and a safe one) And since the cost of a new one s about $300 it is also financially a decent alternative. This is the setup that Borgeson sells and looks to be a very good quality product.
I was hoping to find s less expensive source for the U joints but the spline count on our cars is such that there does not appear to be another supplier for them. The VW U joins are really cheep in comparison. Between $30 and $35 but they do not appear to have a unit that could be made to fit our cars.
#14
If you can get new bearings for option 1 please share the source. As for the Volvo part that has adjustable length, are those the same u-joints? Could Volvo aftermarket be a source?
#15
Three Wheelin'
Did you try Sunset Porsche? Like I said, mine was about $160, from memory.