lee101315

So this afternoon marks the second time in 4 days that I have demolished the driver side axle. Both times it happened as a result of slamming it into second gear. Sure, Im running R compound tires... but damn, two in one week? And the second one was brand new!

I put my car up on the lift, and sure enough, I could move the transmission around by hand .

How many of you have regretted installing a solid transmission mount? I dont mind a little extra noise/vibration, as long as it isnt ridiculous.

Spidey944

There is a thread out there that I will try to find for you about a potential fix for the normal transmission flex issue. I have not heard any feedback from anyone about if it worked or any adverse effects. But it seems like a very sound idea. It's basicly a parhard bar that goes from the transaxle to a point on the frame that prevents the trans from torque loading so badly that it ruins the CV's. Please hold for more info....

blown 944

Just make a brace like 95one designed.

I did a cheap version and it has been fine.

It doesn't really change the ride and keeps the trans from moving around so much.

APKhaos

The solid mounts set up some serious vibration problems, which means keeping a very close eye on every fastner. Like yours, my trans swung around like a bull's pair. In fact, I started to have trouble with the trans cooler fouling on the coilovers during high G left turns.

There is an alternative to a solid mount. You can surround the stock mount with a block of Rockwell 80 hardness Urethane. I did this several years ago, and it solved the problem nicely with no ill effects. Its strong enough to positively locate the trans, but compliant enough to avoid vibration problems.

Here's a pic of the process, which is dead simple.
- Get everything uber clean. You want good adhesion.
- Build a simple dam across the cross member on either side of the trans mount. You want these dams to be nicely sealed, so use some plastic sheet. The sides of a gallon plastic jug are a good source material. Seal the dams up around all their edges with duct tape. Use lots. Did I mention leaking??
- Check that the cross member is sitting level on your bench. Shim it level if its not.
- Mix your urethane, and pour it in.
- In 24 hours or so, tear the dams off and its good to go.


The material is from McMaster Carr:
Here is the link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644k11/=1lmgpl
Part number# 8644k11
Price $30

schwank

Brilliant!

Spidey944

Here is that link. Only took me an hour to find!

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=solution

lee101315

Thanks guys, and especially spideyslave for taking an hour to dig up that link!

I think I am going to do the polyurethane treatment and the support bar.

Eric in Chicago

I've had a solid mount on the race car for 3 years now. No issues. Of course I am not making the big hp of you Turbo guys but I do run the car pretty hard. I check nuts and bolts on the care on a regular basis and have not found any issues. I also have solid engine mounts and again, no issues.

Tms951

I put in the solid mount and stopped breaking axles, so to me it was worth it. There is more vibration but it is not nearly as loud as many other things in the car.

spoolin51

BUMP, Lee how did the polyurethane treatment and support bar work out?

Lorax

I've also broken SEVERAL shifting into second gear hard...

When I get the car running again, one of those braces may be in order.

2bridges

solid mount - NO REGRETS!

anders44

I've ran half season on regular, and half on solid, must say its nice not to feel it moving about in the rear, still haven't smashed any axels, kinda weird since I run R compounts and 295 rears.. and I've done drag as well. ohh well I have like 6 axels laying around waiting for 1 to blow up

Lorax

This is the reason you haven't had problems... you are actually prepared for the problem.

Things always break most when you are farthest from home without any readily available replacement, ask me how I know.

Rogue_Ant

+1


-Rogue