Cup or Stock Rotors for the track?
07-12-2008, 02:03 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cup or Stock Rotors for the track?
After much debate, and help from everyone here... GT3 seats/harnesses/teq. bar are on the way... Already have 997 steel rotors on the rear, but still have the PCCBs up front.
The question...
Do I go with the stock GT3 steels, or spring for GT3 CUP rotors up front? If I recall correctly, aren't the CUP rotors thinner, or am I mistaken?
The question...
Do I go with the stock GT3 steels, or spring for GT3 CUP rotors up front? If I recall correctly, aren't the CUP rotors thinner, or am I mistaken?
07-12-2008, 03:04 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
PM Rick DeMan and see if these will work
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/438746-gt3-rotor-alternative.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-gt3-forum/438746-gt3-rotor-alternative.html
07-12-2008, 03:22 PM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
After much debate, and help from everyone here... GT3 seats/harnesses/teq. bar are on the way... Already have 997 steel rotors on the rear, but still have the PCCBs up front.
The question...
Do I go with the stock GT3 steels, or spring for GT3 CUP rotors up front? If I recall correctly, aren't the CUP rotors thinner, or am I mistaken?
The question...
Do I go with the stock GT3 steels, or spring for GT3 CUP rotors up front? If I recall correctly, aren't the CUP rotors thinner, or am I mistaken?
07-12-2008, 06:22 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
The Cups are thinner than the stocks but you will NEVER get the end of their life in surface used before they crack all to hell. Cheaper and a tad lighter is the reason to go with the cups over stocks. For teh street you could get past the thickness tolerance BEFORE you get cracks so the stocks make more sense for the street.
But at the end of the day most of us (for the track) want the best of both worlds......weight AND longevity. I found that with the PFC direct-drive 2-piece setup. They last 4x as long as the cup rotors and so the cost over the PFC's is actually LOWER over the long haul.
But at the end of the day most of us (for the track) want the best of both worlds......weight AND longevity. I found that with the PFC direct-drive 2-piece setup. They last 4x as long as the cup rotors and so the cost over the PFC's is actually LOWER over the long haul.
07-12-2008, 07:43 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
The Cups are thinner than the stocks but you will NEVER get the end of their life in surface used before they crack all to hell. Cheaper and a tad lighter is the reason to go with the cups over stocks. For teh street you could get past the thickness tolerance BEFORE you get cracks so the stocks make more sense for the street.
But at the end of the day most of us (for the track) want the best of both worlds......weight AND longevity. I found that with the PFC direct-drive 2-piece setup. They last 4x as long as the cup rotors and so the cost over the PFC's is actually LOWER over the long haul.
But at the end of the day most of us (for the track) want the best of both worlds......weight AND longevity. I found that with the PFC direct-drive 2-piece setup. They last 4x as long as the cup rotors and so the cost over the PFC's is actually LOWER over the long haul.
Trending Topics
07-12-2008, 07:59 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Rob, everything is fine. It's once they start to become cracked in such a way that you can feel a "rise" in the cracks and they are almost "opened" where you can drop a finger nail in them. But the hairline or vein looking cracks are ok. The best way to alleviate that is good cooling to the brakes.
I have prolonged my rotor life by two two things:
1. Adding the cup ducts
2. Using my cool down lap to cool the brakes by still going pretty quick but not using brakes and using tires to scrub speed so they stay somewhat at temp. Helps also to get a more accurate tire temp reading.
I have prolonged my rotor life by two two things:
1. Adding the cup ducts
2. Using my cool down lap to cool the brakes by still going pretty quick but not using brakes and using tires to scrub speed so they stay somewhat at temp. Helps also to get a more accurate tire temp reading.
07-12-2008, 08:28 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Rob, everything is fine. It's once they start to become cracked in such a way that you can feel a "rise" in the cracks and they are almost "opened" where you can drop a finger nail in them. But the hairline or vein looking cracks are ok. The best way to alleviate that is good cooling to the brakes.
I have prolonged my rotor life by two two things:
1. Adding the cup ducts
2. Using my cool down lap to cool the brakes by still going pretty quick but not using brakes and using tires to scrub speed so they stay somewhat at temp. Helps also to get a more accurate tire temp reading.
I have prolonged my rotor life by two two things:
1. Adding the cup ducts
2. Using my cool down lap to cool the brakes by still going pretty quick but not using brakes and using tires to scrub speed so they stay somewhat at temp. Helps also to get a more accurate tire temp reading.
07-14-2008, 06:54 PM
#12
Driver Carries No Cash
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Can you share the part number or link to the PFC 2 piece system? My car still has the motorsport rotors on it and I need to buy a full set of rotors to keep on the trailer.
07-14-2008, 07:39 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, this refers to cast one piece drilled rotors rather than two piece dimpled ones. The stress risers should be much less in a dimple than in a full depth hole. My cracks are also extending, and I am begining to wonder what the endpoint will be for the PFC rings. When the hairline cracks connect the dimples, or extend to either the inner or the outer margin of the ring, I'm going to repace them; the same criteria as the drilled ones, just to be o the safe side.
07-14-2008, 09:18 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
Terry, here is what you are looking for.
PFC 2-piece non-motorsport (ones with the dimples)
Rotors "Starter" set which includes the entire setup (hat, hardware, rotor)
350.068.87 for the Left (cost ~$500)
350.068.88 for the Right (cost ~$500)
Then after that you just replace the rotor itself (comes with all hardware needed)
350.34.0060.87 (cost ~$300)
350.34.0060.88 (cost ~$300)
PFC 2-piece motorsport (ones with the gas slotting)
350.34.0060.07 left (cost ~$400)
350.34.0060.08 right (cost ~$400)
206.157.269.12 hat (same as non-motorsport hats and you need two) (cost ~$325/ea)
912.113.775.05 (bobbin kit....hardware) (cost ~$125/ea side)
re: the motorsport setup.....the main difference between (other than cost
) the rotors is that they are machined for the gas slots and named motorsport. They all start life as the same rotor it is just how they are finished. The hardware is different. They are AN fastners, which is an aerospace spec and are capable of much higher loads. The heads of the bolts are hex instead of allen-head but the nuts are the same. The bobbins are gapped differently to allow the rotor to float on the motorsport as well. While the non-motorsport ones are still 2-piece gems they do NOT float.
FYI......I have both. Here are pics of what they look like.
PFC 2-piece non-motorsport (ones with the dimples)
Rotors "Starter" set which includes the entire setup (hat, hardware, rotor)
350.068.87 for the Left (cost ~$500)
350.068.88 for the Right (cost ~$500)
Then after that you just replace the rotor itself (comes with all hardware needed)
350.34.0060.87 (cost ~$300)
350.34.0060.88 (cost ~$300)
PFC 2-piece motorsport (ones with the gas slotting)
350.34.0060.07 left (cost ~$400)
350.34.0060.08 right (cost ~$400)
206.157.269.12 hat (same as non-motorsport hats and you need two) (cost ~$325/ea)
912.113.775.05 (bobbin kit....hardware) (cost ~$125/ea side)
re: the motorsport setup.....the main difference between (other than cost
) the rotors is that they are machined for the gas slots and named motorsport. They all start life as the same rotor it is just how they are finished. The hardware is different. They are AN fastners, which is an aerospace spec and are capable of much higher loads. The heads of the bolts are hex instead of allen-head but the nuts are the same. The bobbins are gapped differently to allow the rotor to float on the motorsport as well. While the non-motorsport ones are still 2-piece gems they do NOT float.FYI......I have both. Here are pics of what they look like.