the flyin' scotsman

The auto transmission oil cooler has a short hose that runs from the cooler to the tank on the rad. 928 307 072 01

Can anyone confirm if its normal for the hose ends to swivel. I'm thinking it shouldn't move and may be the cause of a slight oil misting.

Appreciate insights

Tony

I dont have PET on this computer but I recently rebuilt one of those lines. Mine didnt really swivel but it was lose enough to move. I think the hoses are clocked so that when they bolt up they are orientated correctly..the fluid would slowly drip out then run down. very slow. Easy fix. cut the hose off, slide the new on while noting postion of fitting and crimp or use a good clamp.

the flyin' scotsman

Thx Tony............do you recall the ID of the hose?

JHowell37

Is it the lower hose that's leaking? If so, which end is leaking? Both ends are meant to swivel. If the smaller end is leaking, then it's probably not tight enough. Make sure you counter hold the flare fitting on the metal pipe when you turn the nut on the hose.

the flyin' scotsman

There's actually 3 hoses: from the trans to cooler, one from cooler to rad and one from rad to transmission.

Its the smaller hose from the cooler to rad and its the metal portion of the hose, both ends, that swivel.

I have the rad out so no worries re. counter holding (I have 30 and 32mm wrenches for the job) but thx for the note of caution.

Mrmerlin

if the ends are swiveling then the lines should be rebuilt

the flyin' scotsman

Thats what I thought Stan............thanks for the confirmation.

For those that are wondering:

Tony

yup, thats the one i replaced. Id have to look at the hose tomorrow for the size.

jpitman2

Well crimped hoses might swivel, but not easily, should take some effort. Easy swivels will probably leak.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

the flyin' scotsman

Good point JP.............per the pic I would say the line weeps and I'll rebuild.

I suspect its the typical grind the swages then R&R the rubber withthe appropriate clamps.

dr bob

Malcolm--

Do you have access to a shop that rebuilds hydraulic hoses? In spite of the opposing opinions of others, I'm a believer in a good swaged collar as a hose retainer. I also dislike the appearance of hose clamps as replacements for swaged collars. The collars just look so much cleaner. Fit the line so you can get the clocked positions of the ends correct. I've been known to just take a picture from one end as a reference, since paint marks too often get ground or scrubbed off during handling. Looks like you also have an outer friction layer over the inner hose. Lasts longer but it's tougher to localize leaks in the hose sections. Also-- Is the metal tubing there corroded, or it that just dirt/crud? If rust, it might be worth the coin for a new hose and get it over with all at once.

the flyin' scotsman

Appreciate the input Bob.

I'm far away from a possible rebuild hose outfit (5hr return trip) and given the expense of new I'll try to rebuild.

Tony effected a repair so I'm hopefully that same hose line is available locally with clamps.............wonder how pressure is in the hose?

SharkSkin

Malcom, not sure what the actual pressure is on that line, but FWIW the highest pressure expected anywhere in the transmission is 17 bar. I'm sure it's less than that at the cooler but I can't find a number for you. Whatever pressure is available at the torque converter outlet is what you get at the cooler, less whatever line loss. Steve Cattaneo surely knows, might want to shoot him a PM. Also FWIW, the oil lines see 8 bar. This info may be helpful if you want to find a solution that will work for either type line.

the flyin' scotsman

Thanks Dave..............I asked the question so that I get the right line and clamps hopefully local at the NAPA/tractor store

dr bob

Malcolm--

Get power steering hose. Obviously fluid compatible, and pressure rating will be adequate.