Detailers Hub - Tips and Q&A
#106
Burning Brakes
Hate to say it, but this is just how your PPF is going to look as it does its job. This is not the kind of tear "self-healing" is going to fix. My hood is peppered with this kind of stuff after just a year of driving. There's so much debris that gets kicked up just driving about. Some are definitely not through the PPF completely, but there are a couple that I won't know until the PPF is pulled off. I'm certainly not going to go replacing PPF every time there's a small impact. Let the PPF do its job and decide how often you want to replace it for aesthetic reasons.
Great thread! I need to up my car caring routine.
my car is fully xpeled and xpel fusion ceramic coated (car and wheels/brakes)
I only foam with Adams mega foam, then use Adams car shampoo and dry with microfiber towels. Thats it. I should change up my routine given what you guys have mentioned regarding the ceramic coating to restore that depth look.
I have a question for the group here. I was motoring down the interstate the other day and a bunch of dirt/rocks fell off the horse trailer some 150 feet up in front of me and i of course made contact before I could swerve out of the way. The PPF seemed to do it's job but there are two small tears on the fender. I've never owned a car with PPF before so not sure how I should handle it.
Is there a test to see if it damaged the paint? I don't seem to think so by visual inspection but I don't know. Will the air stream over the fender over time cause the tear to get bigger? I do have an appointment with my installing shop for them to look at it. I wonder if the film should be replaced.
?
my car is fully xpeled and xpel fusion ceramic coated (car and wheels/brakes)
I only foam with Adams mega foam, then use Adams car shampoo and dry with microfiber towels. Thats it. I should change up my routine given what you guys have mentioned regarding the ceramic coating to restore that depth look.
I have a question for the group here. I was motoring down the interstate the other day and a bunch of dirt/rocks fell off the horse trailer some 150 feet up in front of me and i of course made contact before I could swerve out of the way. The PPF seemed to do it's job but there are two small tears on the fender. I've never owned a car with PPF before so not sure how I should handle it.
Is there a test to see if it damaged the paint? I don't seem to think so by visual inspection but I don't know. Will the air stream over the fender over time cause the tear to get bigger? I do have an appointment with my installing shop for them to look at it. I wonder if the film should be replaced.
?
The following users liked this post:
BoxKing (08-29-2023)
#107
Burning Brakes
Hate to say it, but this is just how your PPF is going to look as it does its job. This is not the kind of tear "self-healing" is going to fix. My hood is peppered with this kind of stuff after just a year of driving. There's so much debris that gets kicked up just driving about. Some are definitely not through the PPF completely, but there are a couple that I won't know until the PPF is pulled off. I'm certainly not going to go replacing PPF every time there's a small impact. Let the PPF do its job and decide how often you want to replace it for aesthetic reasons.
Thanks for all the replies! Thanks TX Rubicon. Agreed!
Unfortunately cleaned up my car and noticed this now. I really got hammered hard by that dirt and rock coming off the trailer.
The Rock crush through the PPF and dented the front bumper. Is there any way to fix this conservatively? without a full respray? Fill in, sand, and then re PPF? The problem is it's a little deformed.
thanks!
#108
Rennlist Member
why are you posting screen grabs of your photos?
I would fill it, sand it and use Dr. Colorchip on it then get a new panel
I would fill it, sand it and use Dr. Colorchip on it then get a new panel
#109
Burning Brakes
Thanks Uncle dude, sorry I have a tendency to take screengrabs. That would be great. Hopefully it can be filled sanded and dr color chip then re ppfed. I was able to find a good Porsche certified shop not too far away. We will see whar they say. Bummer, but it happens!
#110
Instructor
Honestly, I've moved away from mitts. Nowadays, I just use a folded microfiber towel as the wash medium instead of a mitt. A tip from Larry that's come in handy...
#111
Rennlist Member
1 Bucket
Zero Grit Guards
1 Wash mitt - I use the wand to quickly spray the mitt prior to dunking back into the wash bucket - never introducing dirt.
Same process above for wheel cleaning - I spray down the brushes/mitts prior to dunking them back into the bucket. Just added the Cyclone Wheel Mitts to my wash, and love them.
Just received a new mitt yesterday and put her to the test. Absolutely fell in love this this thing, IMO the best mitt/pad I have ever used, and the price was on point.
Adam's 10” Professional Wool Wash Pad - Plush Synthetic Car Wash Pad is Gentle On Auto Paint & Accessories Without Worry of Scratches or Swirls - Car Soap & Wax Safe Detailing Tool for Car or Truck… https://a.co/d/9gytvsn
I only use multiple microfiber towels when I do rinse-less washes.
Zero Grit Guards
1 Wash mitt - I use the wand to quickly spray the mitt prior to dunking back into the wash bucket - never introducing dirt.
Same process above for wheel cleaning - I spray down the brushes/mitts prior to dunking them back into the bucket. Just added the Cyclone Wheel Mitts to my wash, and love them.
Just received a new mitt yesterday and put her to the test. Absolutely fell in love this this thing, IMO the best mitt/pad I have ever used, and the price was on point.
Adam's 10” Professional Wool Wash Pad - Plush Synthetic Car Wash Pad is Gentle On Auto Paint & Accessories Without Worry of Scratches or Swirls - Car Soap & Wax Safe Detailing Tool for Car or Truck… https://a.co/d/9gytvsn
I only use multiple microfiber towels when I do rinse-less washes.
#112
Might as well add in my cleaning method. I have used this method on all my cars now for over 10 years and it leaves spectacular results.
1. Pressure rinse the vehicle to get off the heavier muck and grime
2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water and add a splash of Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to the bucket
3. Completely soak several thick pile micro fiber towels in the bucket
4. Liberally apply Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to your wet, pressure rinsed vehicle, working 1 to 2 panels at a time
5. Make nice linear passes with the soaked microfiber towels on each body panel to clean the car, then return them to the bucket. Work from the top of the car down.
6. Buff dry as you go with a high quality microfiber drying towel
7. Blow out excess water (optional) with a heated air dryer after cleaning and buffing the entire car.
That's it. Your car will be immaculate, and gleaming when you are done. Twice a year, I apply a "Recharge" coating for my Ceramic. You do not need to do anything else to the vehicle whatsoever. It will just look great, and the less products you need to apply to the surface, the less micro-scratches you will get. I have even used this semi-waterless method on several black cars and the results are spectacular.
Additionally:
1. If the wheels need serious cleaning, I do this first using Griot's Heavy Duty wheel cleaner and a pressure washer
2. I use Griot's Rubber Cleaner on the tires followed by Lithium Wheely Great
3. I use Lithium Trim Serum on all black plastic and Lithium Hyper Cleanse on interior panels
1. Pressure rinse the vehicle to get off the heavier muck and grime
2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water and add a splash of Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to the bucket
3. Completely soak several thick pile micro fiber towels in the bucket
4. Liberally apply Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to your wet, pressure rinsed vehicle, working 1 to 2 panels at a time
5. Make nice linear passes with the soaked microfiber towels on each body panel to clean the car, then return them to the bucket. Work from the top of the car down.
6. Buff dry as you go with a high quality microfiber drying towel
7. Blow out excess water (optional) with a heated air dryer after cleaning and buffing the entire car.
That's it. Your car will be immaculate, and gleaming when you are done. Twice a year, I apply a "Recharge" coating for my Ceramic. You do not need to do anything else to the vehicle whatsoever. It will just look great, and the less products you need to apply to the surface, the less micro-scratches you will get. I have even used this semi-waterless method on several black cars and the results are spectacular.
Additionally:
1. If the wheels need serious cleaning, I do this first using Griot's Heavy Duty wheel cleaner and a pressure washer
2. I use Griot's Rubber Cleaner on the tires followed by Lithium Wheely Great
3. I use Lithium Trim Serum on all black plastic and Lithium Hyper Cleanse on interior panels
#113
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
3-4 plush microfiber towels are more than enough for the spyder. Each towel has 8 sides to it when folded into quarters. During a wash, never re-use a side, never re-use a towel... I find a plush microfiber does a better job than wash mitts and are more gentle on the paint.
#114
I actually find that the biggest issue is people use the stuff to coat not only the sidewall, but it always runs into the first block or so of the outer tire contact patch. Then you drive away and you are slip sliding all over the place and getting understeer city.
I use a small sponge pad and make sure it stays on JUST THE SIDEWALLS. Oh, I use Adams tire dressing and that seems to work just fine. Leaves a nice satin finish, not too shiny or tacky looking.
#115
Rennlist Member
Might as well add in my cleaning method. I have used this method on all my cars now for over 10 years and it leaves spectacular results.
1. Pressure rinse the vehicle to get off the heavier muck and grime
2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water and add a splash of Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to the bucket
3. Completely soak several thick pile micro fiber towels in the bucket
4. Liberally apply Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to your wet, pressure rinsed vehicle, working 1 to 2 panels at a time
5. Make nice linear passes with the soaked microfiber towels on each body panel to clean the car, then return them to the bucket. Work from the top of the car down.
6. Buff dry as you go with a high quality microfiber drying towel
7. Blow out excess water (optional) with a heated air dryer after cleaning and buffing the entire car.
That's it. Your car will be immaculate, and gleaming when you are done. Twice a year, I apply a "Recharge" coating for my Ceramic. You do not need to do anything else to the vehicle whatsoever. It will just look great, and the less products you need to apply to the surface, the less micro-scratches you will get. I have even used this semi-waterless method on several black cars and the results are spectacular.
Additionally:
1. If the wheels need serious cleaning, I do this first using Griot's Heavy Duty wheel cleaner and a pressure washer
2. I use Griot's Rubber Cleaner on the tires followed by Lithium Wheely Great
3. I use Lithium Trim Serum on all black plastic and Lithium Hyper Cleanse on interior panels
1. Pressure rinse the vehicle to get off the heavier muck and grime
2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket with water and add a splash of Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to the bucket
3. Completely soak several thick pile micro fiber towels in the bucket
4. Liberally apply Griot's Spray-on Car Wash to your wet, pressure rinsed vehicle, working 1 to 2 panels at a time
5. Make nice linear passes with the soaked microfiber towels on each body panel to clean the car, then return them to the bucket. Work from the top of the car down.
6. Buff dry as you go with a high quality microfiber drying towel
7. Blow out excess water (optional) with a heated air dryer after cleaning and buffing the entire car.
That's it. Your car will be immaculate, and gleaming when you are done. Twice a year, I apply a "Recharge" coating for my Ceramic. You do not need to do anything else to the vehicle whatsoever. It will just look great, and the less products you need to apply to the surface, the less micro-scratches you will get. I have even used this semi-waterless method on several black cars and the results are spectacular.
Additionally:
1. If the wheels need serious cleaning, I do this first using Griot's Heavy Duty wheel cleaner and a pressure washer
2. I use Griot's Rubber Cleaner on the tires followed by Lithium Wheely Great
3. I use Lithium Trim Serum on all black plastic and Lithium Hyper Cleanse on interior panels
you and I do it the exact same way and almost the exact same setup.
so we might the same tastes, I would recommend
Dura coat tire shine - look it up, it’s the real deal. Stays on for a good six months and absolutely dry and doesn’t collect dirt
303 aero for plastics, the serum is nice, but as you probably know, it attracts so mist dust, 303 makes the black look new for a handful of washes and doesn’t collect anything
#116
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Doing a final clean before winter storage.
Used Sonax Alcantara cleaner... it really brought the steering wheel back to like new! Highly recommended...
Used Sonax Alcantara cleaner... it really brought the steering wheel back to like new! Highly recommended...
#117
Rennlist Member
an equally effective alternative is Koch Chemie Pol star diluted 1:10-15 in a foaming pump dispenser.
The following users liked this post:
BoxKing (11-01-2023)
#118
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Would be curious what others techniques are with the Alcantara cleaner...
I pumped a good amount onto a dry microfiber and scrubbed it into the alcantara which was wet to the touch after...
Waited about 10 minutes for it to semi-dry...
Then took a new damp microfiber and scrubbed down the area...
Waited another 10 min or so and use a soft horse hair brush to brighten up the fibers...
Then I wait until it's fully dried before driving.
I pumped a good amount onto a dry microfiber and scrubbed it into the alcantara which was wet to the touch after...
Waited about 10 minutes for it to semi-dry...
Then took a new damp microfiber and scrubbed down the area...
Waited another 10 min or so and use a soft horse hair brush to brighten up the fibers...
Then I wait until it's fully dried before driving.
#119
Rennlist Member
Never thought about adding POL to a foaming dispenser. POL is my go to all around interior cleaner, so this tip/advise is going to be beneficial.
Another product spotlight.
Gtechniq EXOv5 - released Q2 2023.
Many of you know my feelings about applying Ceramic on PPF, so I wont go through all of my reasoning's at this moment. EXOv5 is a standalone topper, that has up to two year protection, and is applied similarly to Ceramic. This stuff is absolutely amazing, easy to apply, and my "paint" PPF feels like liquid glass after the application, and post first wash a week later (CP Reset). I bought Gtechnic C2v3 to apply after every 2-3rd wash; one spray into a microfiber per panel. I bought the smallest bottle of this stuff bc I may not keep using it if I dont like the properties after application. Im also eye balling Koch Chemie NMS, adding 30ML to my foam cannon/bucket every 2nd-3rd wash as my sacrificial layer- bc I want to see what the lazy approach looks like.
EXOv5 application process:
Decontamination wash - combination of CarPro LIFT, and DESCALE.
Gyeon Iron - I used a full 1000ML bottle - yes overkill.
Clay Bar- Fine grade
CArPro Reflect polish - went over any stubborn water-spots, and stained areas (lower panels) applied into a plush microfiber.
Gyeon PREP
EXO application - used the supplied applicator, applying to roughly 2'x3' sections at a time. Waited approximately 1-2 minutes, wiped off/leveled and spread the product with the first microfiber towel, 2nd towel to level, 3rd to polish. This was applied to every single portion of the car, trim includes, with the exception of the glass. I ordered the 50ml bottle, and probably wound up with 10ml left.
Another product spotlight.
Gtechniq EXOv5 - released Q2 2023.
Many of you know my feelings about applying Ceramic on PPF, so I wont go through all of my reasoning's at this moment. EXOv5 is a standalone topper, that has up to two year protection, and is applied similarly to Ceramic. This stuff is absolutely amazing, easy to apply, and my "paint" PPF feels like liquid glass after the application, and post first wash a week later (CP Reset). I bought Gtechnic C2v3 to apply after every 2-3rd wash; one spray into a microfiber per panel. I bought the smallest bottle of this stuff bc I may not keep using it if I dont like the properties after application. Im also eye balling Koch Chemie NMS, adding 30ML to my foam cannon/bucket every 2nd-3rd wash as my sacrificial layer- bc I want to see what the lazy approach looks like.
EXOv5 application process:
Decontamination wash - combination of CarPro LIFT, and DESCALE.
Gyeon Iron - I used a full 1000ML bottle - yes overkill.
Clay Bar- Fine grade
CArPro Reflect polish - went over any stubborn water-spots, and stained areas (lower panels) applied into a plush microfiber.
Gyeon PREP
EXO application - used the supplied applicator, applying to roughly 2'x3' sections at a time. Waited approximately 1-2 minutes, wiped off/leveled and spread the product with the first microfiber towel, 2nd towel to level, 3rd to polish. This was applied to every single portion of the car, trim includes, with the exception of the glass. I ordered the 50ml bottle, and probably wound up with 10ml left.