Detailers Hub - Tips and Q&A
#121
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^^ I've heard similar from a friend regarding tooth paste... The statement seemed fishy to me!
#122
Advanced
Never thought about adding POL to a foaming dispenser. POL is my go to all around interior cleaner, so this tip/advise is going to be beneficial.
Another product spotlight.
Gtechniq EXOv5 - released Q2 2023.
Many of you know my feelings about applying Ceramic on PPF, so I wont go through all of my reasoning's at this moment. EXOv5 is a standalone topper, that has up to two year protection, and is applied similarly to Ceramic. This stuff is absolutely amazing, easy to apply, and my "paint" PPF feels like liquid glass after the application, and post first wash a week later (CP Reset). I bought Gtechnic C2v3 to apply after every 2-3rd wash; one spray into a microfiber per panel. I bought the smallest bottle of this stuff bc I may not keep using it if I dont like the properties after application. Im also eye balling Koch Chemie NMS, adding 30ML to my foam cannon/bucket every 2nd-3rd wash as my sacrificial layer- bc I want to see what the lazy approach looks like.
EXOv5 application process:
Decontamination wash - combination of CarPro LIFT, and DESCALE.
Gyeon Iron - I used a full 1000ML bottle - yes overkill.
Clay Bar- Fine grade
CArPro Reflect polish - went over any stubborn water-spots, and stained areas (lower panels) applied into a plush microfiber.
Gyeon PREP
EXO application - used the supplied applicator, applying to roughly 2'x3' sections at a time. Waited approximately 1-2 minutes, wiped off/leveled and spread the product with the first microfiber towel, 2nd towel to level, 3rd to polish. This was applied to every single portion of the car, trim includes, with the exception of the glass. I ordered the 50ml bottle, and probably wound up with 10ml left.
Another product spotlight.
Gtechniq EXOv5 - released Q2 2023.
Many of you know my feelings about applying Ceramic on PPF, so I wont go through all of my reasoning's at this moment. EXOv5 is a standalone topper, that has up to two year protection, and is applied similarly to Ceramic. This stuff is absolutely amazing, easy to apply, and my "paint" PPF feels like liquid glass after the application, and post first wash a week later (CP Reset). I bought Gtechnic C2v3 to apply after every 2-3rd wash; one spray into a microfiber per panel. I bought the smallest bottle of this stuff bc I may not keep using it if I dont like the properties after application. Im also eye balling Koch Chemie NMS, adding 30ML to my foam cannon/bucket every 2nd-3rd wash as my sacrificial layer- bc I want to see what the lazy approach looks like.
EXOv5 application process:
Decontamination wash - combination of CarPro LIFT, and DESCALE.
Gyeon Iron - I used a full 1000ML bottle - yes overkill.
Clay Bar- Fine grade
CArPro Reflect polish - went over any stubborn water-spots, and stained areas (lower panels) applied into a plush microfiber.
Gyeon PREP
EXO application - used the supplied applicator, applying to roughly 2'x3' sections at a time. Waited approximately 1-2 minutes, wiped off/leveled and spread the product with the first microfiber towel, 2nd towel to level, 3rd to polish. This was applied to every single portion of the car, trim includes, with the exception of the glass. I ordered the 50ml bottle, and probably wound up with 10ml left.
#123
Rennlist Member
I would have gone with a combo of Kamikaze Ceramics if my car wasn’t full PPF’d.
Ps… Even though I made my product choice, HALOv2 looks way more promising as a standalone product than the original with the added year of protection. You also cant go wrong with adding EXOv5 as a topper to HALOv2. Doing so should stretch the life of HALOv2 for at least another 12 months to the listed 24 out of the box.
Last edited by BoxKing; 11-01-2023 at 05:48 PM.
#124
I looked at both HALO, and CarPro Skin prior to choosing EXOv5. I dont care much for Ceramic coatings on top of PPF bc Ceramic can pick up swirl marks easier than the clear coat on a car. Why would I want to add a Ceramic coat that this can happen to, when I have self healing PPF…? This was the question I asked myself for over 6 long months! Ceramic will degrade differently from car to car, and panel to panel. In order to properly reset a Ceramic coating, you need/should do a one step polish to remove any and all layers remaining. This is just too much maintenance IMO, and a scope of work that might be out of my league. One of the plus sides I found with EXOv5, is the ability to strip the product completely with a semi-intense decon wash/panel wipe. Im a detail product junky, and I know something “better” will come out tomorrow morning, so I at least have the option to DIY a fresh install of another product when, and if I choose.
I would have gone with a combo of Kamikaze Ceramics if my car wasn’t full PPF’d.
Ps… Even though I made my product choice, HALOv2 looks way more promising as a standalone product than the original with the added year of protection. You also cant go wrong with adding EXOv5 as a topper to HALOv2. Doing so should stretch the life of HALOv2 for at least another 12 months to the listed 24 out of the box.
I would have gone with a combo of Kamikaze Ceramics if my car wasn’t full PPF’d.
Ps… Even though I made my product choice, HALOv2 looks way more promising as a standalone product than the original with the added year of protection. You also cant go wrong with adding EXOv5 as a topper to HALOv2. Doing so should stretch the life of HALOv2 for at least another 12 months to the listed 24 out of the box.
#125
Rennlist Member
I’m not sure how much you drive your car and whether or not you wear gloves, but the alcantara steering wheel on my 718 and my previous car picked up so much oil from my skin that there is not a chance in the world that a water damped microfiber towel would clean it.
#126
Burning Brakes
the product that I recommended isn’t an alcantara-only cleaner. That said, the sonax product is marketed as a dedicated alcantara product and it works great for that purpose.
I’m not sure how much you drive your car and whether or not you wear gloves, but the alcantara steering wheel on my 718 and my previous car picked up so much oil from my skin that there is not a chance in the world that a water damped microfiber towel would clean it.
I’m not sure how much you drive your car and whether or not you wear gloves, but the alcantara steering wheel on my 718 and my previous car picked up so much oil from my skin that there is not a chance in the world that a water damped microfiber towel would clean it.
That said, if you feel compelled to use chemical, put a drop of dish soap in your water bucket to alleviate any of your skin oil concerns.
Avera
#127
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I don't wear gloves, but I'm pretty particular about keeping my hands clean before getting in. Approaching 17,000 miles on my Sept 2020 build 718.
There is also a difference, starting around Sept 2020 builds, between Alcantara and Race-Tex. While they look the same, I find the PAG proprietary Race-Tex to be more durable.
Anyway, good recommendation on here and in the OM on cleaning these surfaces whether lightly soiled or heavily.
On cleaning I always start with the lightest touch and move on from there.
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#128
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: South Shore of Massachusetts
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I've dealt with Alcantara since I first saw it in my 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R. What I think most folks get wrong about it is; it is not leather and can't be cared for in the same way. While you could conceivably not clean your leather steering wheel for 6 months to a year and still bring it back to like-new condition, you can't do that with Alcantara. It requires more frequent cleaning to stay fresh. Nothing crazy, just a basic cleaning every 2-3 months, and it will be good as new in my experience.
Alcantara has this poor reputation for being an extremely fragile material that will disintegrate if you look at it wrong, but I think that comes down to lack of knowledge on how to maintain it. Yes, if you ignore it for long periods of time, it will turn gross. Yes, many people had no experience with the material when it first started popping up and that led to every E46 330i zhp steering wheel looking like *** when owners never once cleaned it.
To me, I much prefer it to leather in my sports car's touch points. Much better grip than leather, temperature neutral, looks better imo. Taking 10 minutes to clean it 5 or 6 times a year has never been too big of an ask for me and is well worth it.
I have also tried most of the Alcantara cleaners out there; Sonax, Dr. Beasley's, regular mild soap and water, they all seem to work equally well. My cleaning kit consists of a horse hair brush (kiwi shoe cleaning brush), a tooth brush for the smaller crevices the horse hair brush can't reach, and your cleaner of choice. Served me very well.
Alcantara has this poor reputation for being an extremely fragile material that will disintegrate if you look at it wrong, but I think that comes down to lack of knowledge on how to maintain it. Yes, if you ignore it for long periods of time, it will turn gross. Yes, many people had no experience with the material when it first started popping up and that led to every E46 330i zhp steering wheel looking like *** when owners never once cleaned it.
To me, I much prefer it to leather in my sports car's touch points. Much better grip than leather, temperature neutral, looks better imo. Taking 10 minutes to clean it 5 or 6 times a year has never been too big of an ask for me and is well worth it.
I have also tried most of the Alcantara cleaners out there; Sonax, Dr. Beasley's, regular mild soap and water, they all seem to work equally well. My cleaning kit consists of a horse hair brush (kiwi shoe cleaning brush), a tooth brush for the smaller crevices the horse hair brush can't reach, and your cleaner of choice. Served me very well.
Last edited by 850tgul; 11-02-2023 at 04:42 PM.
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BoxKing (11-02-2023)
#129
Burning Brakes
I share your preference in a leather steering wheel and other 'touch points.'
I find Alcantara and variants quite easy to maintain, and I also do not ever wear any gloves. As I suggested, a moist microfiber towel followed by a dry one makes it like new with minimal effort. We are talking about the steering wheel and shifter.
For the naysayers who are compelled to use chemical cleaners, my point is easy enough to verify with zero risk. Simply do as I suggest with a most microfiber towel followed by a dry one. If you do this once every 3-4 months you will see the effectiveness come out on the moist microfiber towel and when your Alcantara looks like new after drying.
It could not be any simpler or more effective.
Avera
I find Alcantara and variants quite easy to maintain, and I also do not ever wear any gloves. As I suggested, a moist microfiber towel followed by a dry one makes it like new with minimal effort. We are talking about the steering wheel and shifter.
For the naysayers who are compelled to use chemical cleaners, my point is easy enough to verify with zero risk. Simply do as I suggest with a most microfiber towel followed by a dry one. If you do this once every 3-4 months you will see the effectiveness come out on the moist microfiber towel and when your Alcantara looks like new after drying.
It could not be any simpler or more effective.
Avera
#130
Rennlist Member
Completely understandable as to why one would feel a chemical clean is more effective than just water (DISTILLED), and honestly, Im not sure anyone can truly argue that water is “better”, as I assure you it isn’t. Although the feel of the wheel may be similar post wipe down with either method, the underlying oils/bacteria will still be present, and compound over time.
Why dont we agree to disagree, and meet in the middle. Koch Chemie POL - 2 cap fulls in a 16oz mister, w/distilled water.
A bottle of POL should last you a lifetime for virtually the same cost as Sonax, and can be used on every interior surface; leather > glass > plastic > alcantara, with post surface protection properties. I even use POL as a multipurpose house cleaner.
Why dont we agree to disagree, and meet in the middle. Koch Chemie POL - 2 cap fulls in a 16oz mister, w/distilled water.
A bottle of POL should last you a lifetime for virtually the same cost as Sonax, and can be used on every interior surface; leather > glass > plastic > alcantara, with post surface protection properties. I even use POL as a multipurpose house cleaner.
#131
Burning Brakes
Completely understandable as to why one would feel a chemical clean is more effective than just water (DISTILLED), and honestly, Im not sure anyone can truly argue that water is “better”, as I assure you it isn’t. Although the feel of the wheel may be similar post wipe down with either method, the underlying oils/bacteria will still be present, and compound over time.
Why dont we agree to disagree, and meet in the middle. Koch Chemie POL - 2 cap fulls in a 16oz mister, w/distilled water.
A bottle of POL should last you a lifetime for virtually the same cost as Sonax, and can be used on every interior surface; leather > glass > plastic > alcantara, with post surface protection properties. I even use POL as a multipurpose house cleaner.
Why dont we agree to disagree, and meet in the middle. Koch Chemie POL - 2 cap fulls in a 16oz mister, w/distilled water.
A bottle of POL should last you a lifetime for virtually the same cost as Sonax, and can be used on every interior surface; leather > glass > plastic > alcantara, with post surface protection properties. I even use POL as a multipurpose house cleaner.
Distilled water? Why not just regular old tap water? . . . are you suggesting you are worried about water spots on your Alcantara? Regardless, as I indicated, dry with a second microfiber (or any other) towel after cleaning with a moist microfiber (or any other) towel.
No matter what you use there will be residual oils and bacteria . . . imperceptible and irrelevant in both cases. Even if you could rid your touch points of oil/bacteria, what you are touching them with will never be free of either.
At any rate, it is not so much that we can agree to disagree . . . it is more a matter of offering an alternative solution free of unnecessary chemicals.
In similar regard, I have no problem with any owner doing whatever they want to their vehicle.
Avera
Last edited by Avera; 11-03-2023 at 07:45 AM.
#132
Rennlist Member
I share your preference in a leather steering wheel and other 'touch points.'
I find Alcantara and variants quite easy to maintain, and I also do not ever wear any gloves. As I suggested, a moist microfiber towel followed by a dry one makes it like new with minimal effort. We are talking about the steering wheel and shifter.
For the naysayers who are compelled to use chemical cleaners, my point is easy enough to verify with zero risk. Simply do as I suggest with a most microfiber towel followed by a dry one. If you do this once every 3-4 months you will see the effectiveness come out on the moist microfiber towel and when your Alcantara looks like new after drying.
It could not be any simpler or more effective.
Avera
I find Alcantara and variants quite easy to maintain, and I also do not ever wear any gloves. As I suggested, a moist microfiber towel followed by a dry one makes it like new with minimal effort. We are talking about the steering wheel and shifter.
For the naysayers who are compelled to use chemical cleaners, my point is easy enough to verify with zero risk. Simply do as I suggest with a most microfiber towel followed by a dry one. If you do this once every 3-4 months you will see the effectiveness come out on the moist microfiber towel and when your Alcantara looks like new after drying.
It could not be any simpler or more effective.
Avera
But when it do come around to cleaning the shift **** and steering wheel I’ll test your method by cleaning half of my wheel using your method and the other half with a cleaning agent.
for the ****, cleaning half won’t be easy, so first I’ll clean using just water (your method). Then I’ll follow up with a cleaner and a white or light colored cloth to see if there’s discoloration on the cloth after the second cleaning.
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Avera (11-03-2023)
#133
I am also prepping my spyder for winter storage and was wondering about door seals and trim. I hate to say it, but I have never been concerned about this or successfully incorporated a routine to care for them in the past.
Maybe I should be concerned, especially when my car is dormant for 6 months of the year?
Anyone care to share a product recommendation and how often to care for these areas?
Maybe I should be concerned, especially when my car is dormant for 6 months of the year?
Anyone care to share a product recommendation and how often to care for these areas?
#134
Would be curious what others techniques are with the Alcantara cleaner...
I pumped a good amount onto a dry microfiber and scrubbed it into the alcantara which was wet to the touch after...
Waited about 10 minutes for it to semi-dry...
Then took a new damp microfiber and scrubbed down the area...
Waited another 10 min or so and use a soft horse hair brush to brighten up the fibers...
Then I wait until it's fully dried before driving.
I pumped a good amount onto a dry microfiber and scrubbed it into the alcantara which was wet to the touch after...
Waited about 10 minutes for it to semi-dry...
Then took a new damp microfiber and scrubbed down the area...
Waited another 10 min or so and use a soft horse hair brush to brighten up the fibers...
Then I wait until it's fully dried before driving.
I also use Sonax alcantara cleaner and I like it a lot. Also smells great. My theory is that by the time I'd be getting ready to go through the full restoration process, I'd likely have it in my head that I may need to replace in case I mess something up during the process. While Porsche parts are expensive ($300-600 depending on model and type), if you're having to replace a part every 10 years due to wear, I don't think that is that bad.
#135
I am also prepping my spyder for winter storage and was wondering about door seals and trim. I hate to say it, but I have never been concerned about this or successfully incorporated a routine to care for them in the past.
Maybe I should be concerned, especially when my car is dormant for 6 months of the year?
Anyone care to share a product recommendation and how often to care for these areas?
Maybe I should be concerned, especially when my car is dormant for 6 months of the year?
Anyone care to share a product recommendation and how often to care for these areas?
It worked great for many years. It's a pretty liquidy product and I'd typically apply it to a microfiber towel first and then apply it. Otherwise, the applicator that is included on it will get dirty over time. But prior to conditioning, you should clean the seals.
However, I switched to the Sonax product. https://www.detailersdomain.com/prod...f96b57aa&_ss=r
I prefer the Sonax product because it is a bit thicker and I feel it is easier to apply.
No right or wrong answer here and again, my theory is that in 20+ years, you're probably going to want to replace the door seals anyway. So I'm not sure exactly how much this matters. Probably more of a therapeutic process for me vs actually benefiting the car.
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