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Track Settings - Traction Control, Suspension & PDK

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Old 04-10-2024, 05:47 PM
  #16  
mrd_spy
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Times always matters, if you buy mods you want faster times.
the op “needs two seconds” his words , but don’t drive in manual mode, and drives with Nannie’s on !

the issue is always driving with esp on will never make you a better driver, so why add aero ?

if you want to find 2 seconds with zero skill fit ao52 tyres.
Old 04-10-2024, 05:59 PM
  #17  
KelvinC
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Originally Posted by mrd_spy
If you are just after time fit AO52 tyres they are 2 seconds a lap faster than cups but twice the price.
I'm not sure what region you're in, but in the US, ordering through tire rack, the A052 is definitely cheaper than the Cup 2.

OEM sizing (245/295) set of four.

Yokohama A052: $1776
Michelin Cup 2: $1854
Michelin Cup 2R: $2183


Old 04-10-2024, 06:00 PM
  #18  
l30thelion
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Originally Posted by mrd_spy
Times always matters, if you buy mods you want faster times.
the op “needs two seconds” his words , but don’t drive in manual mode, and drives with Nannie’s on !

the issue is always driving with esp on will never make you a better driver, so why add aero ?

if you want to find 2 seconds with zero skill fit ao52 tyres.
I get what folks are saying....true when I changed the wheels/tires from stock it helped me go faster, helped with confidence, and made it a more enjoyable experience.

My setup is below, pretty much copied what I found from forum members on here (no need to reinvent the wheel especially since I'm novice when it comes to car setup).
So a HUGE HUGE thanks to forum members who've posted alignment settings and setup for the car as it has helped me a LOT!

Falken RT660 265/305 (30 psi hot) on
Apex SM-10 19x9" ET50 Wheels
Apex SM-10 19x11" ET46 Wheels

Suspension (for fitment of wheel/tire setup & avoid rubbing):
Tarett Front Camber Plates
Tarett Rear Toe Links
Alignment -3F, -2.7R (Tarett Camber Plates and Rear Toe Links)
Ferodo 3.12, Spiegler Brake Lines Otherwise Stock


I'm working on the driver mod for sure but always good to see what others are doing or have done to go faster too, thx!

Last edited by l30thelion; 04-10-2024 at 06:08 PM.
Old 04-10-2024, 06:12 PM
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Alan C.
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At 77 I find myself in survival mode. I leave everything on that might save my bacon.🤣🤣
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Old 04-10-2024, 06:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by l30thelion

I'm working on the driver mod for sure but always good to see what others are doing or have done to go faster too, thx!
+100

At the end of the day, it's about having fun. There's a lot of "expert advice" on this forum but ultimately do what feels safe and enjoyable for you. The journey to improving our lap times, either through seat time or mods is what this hobby is all about. There isn't a single formula or best way to approach it. No one that matters is going to judge you one way or another, as long as you aren't putting others at risk.
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Old 04-10-2024, 06:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mrd_spy
Times always matters, if you buy mods you want faster times.
the op “needs two seconds” his words , but don’t drive in manual mode, and drives with Nannie’s on !

the issue is always driving with esp on will never make you a better driver, so why add aero ?

if you want to find 2 seconds with zero skill fit ao52 tyres.
You crack me up Mr pro driver. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Peter
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Old 04-10-2024, 07:19 PM
  #22  
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Only elite level drivers will go noticably faster with nannies switched off. The rest of us will just crash.
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Old 04-11-2024, 02:59 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 85Gold
You crack me up Mr pro driver. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Peter
why does that make some one a pro driver because I change my own gears and drive ESC off lol FFS Some of you guys must be very young or very poor drivers and forget the rest of us grew up with Zero driver aids, My Noble did not even have ABS neither did my early Lotus cars.

todays drivers seem a bit camp...:-) they lean on PTV they cannot threshold brake, most it seems cannot even change gear !! Get off the ******* track., and drive right past to a C&C meet.

Last edited by mrd_spy; 04-11-2024 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 04-11-2024, 04:53 PM
  #24  
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Hey, more questions! Thanks in advance, opinions appreciated.

1.
Like many GT4 track folks I run RT660s 265/305.
I run with camber at -3F, -2.7R.
Anyone tried going a bit more negative, say -3.5F, -3.0R?
Is that going too far for a street tire?
May make more sense for an R-Compound?

2.
Just personal observation: Seems the car's alignment doesn't stick...I mean I feel I have to have it aligned more often that expected.
Might just be that I run at Sebring and it's a really super bumpy :thinking which causes it to mess up alignment :shrug

3.
I run Apex wheels SM10s Flow Formed and have bent wheels twice.
Their replacement program is nice but is it just me or are the wheels susceptible to bending easily?


Thanks!

Last edited by l30thelion; 04-11-2024 at 04:58 PM.
Old 04-11-2024, 05:02 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by l30thelion
Hey, another question!

Like many GT4 track folks I run RT660s 265/305.

I run with camber at -3F, -2.7R.
Anyone tried going a bit more negative, say -3.5F, -3.0R?
Is that going too far for a street tire?
May make more sense for an R-Compound?

Thanks!
I don't have tire temps yet, so hard to say. -3.1F and -2.9R with a 5mm more rake is working fine on those tires

Soft front and medium rear sway bars
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Old 04-12-2024, 08:05 PM
  #26  
Xxyion
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Not sure how much my opinion will matter but i'm a 4fun track driver. I dont chase laptimes that much (even though i do have a Garmin Catalyst but it's mostly for me to see where i have improved) and i only visit the track maybe 2 times a year.

That being said,
- Do you normally run with full traction control on? Have you found that disabling TC partially or fully has helped improve your lap times?

I leave mine on all the time. I'm not enough of a veteran track day rat to where i'm going to see improved track times, and again thats not the point for me. its more about being able to drive the car in a way that i'm not allowed to drive it when i'm on public roads. Sure i like going fast, but i'm not trying to eke out every millisecond. I generally dont over drive my car and rarely do i ever feel the TC kick in because i just dont push it that hard because i dont feel the need to.

- Do you let the PDK do it's thing or shift w/ paddles? Which do you feel might be faster on track?

I let the PDK do its thing depending on the track. When i autocross i manually shift cuz i'm basically in 2nd through the entire course. For some tracks i'll keep it in Auto as its one less thing for me to worry about and i can just focusing on my lines and braking properly.


- Do you run the suspension in non sport setting for bumpy tracks (e.g. Sebring)? Or better to run w/ Sport+ all the time?

I've always run the car in the most aggressive setting when im on track or autocross. I like how planted it makes the car feel and gives me more confidence with it.




With my incoming Boxster i plan on hitting the track about 2-3 times a year as originally planned but again, not trying to get the best lap times. Just trying to have fun and getting to hear that flat 6 howl.
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Old 04-12-2024, 08:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by l30thelion
Hey, more questions! Thanks in advance, opinions appreciated.

1.
Like many GT4 track folks I run RT660s 265/305.
I run with camber at -3F, -2.7R.
Anyone tried going a bit more negative, say -3.5F, -3.0R?
Is that going too far for a street tire?
May make more sense for an R-Compound?

2.
Just personal observation: Seems the car's alignment doesn't stick...I mean I feel I have to have it aligned more often that expected.
Might just be that I run at Sebring and it's a really super bumpy :thinking which causes it to mess up alignment :shrug

3.
I run Apex wheels SM10s Flow Formed and have bent wheels twice.
Their replacement program is nice but is it just me or are the wheels susceptible to bending easily?


Thanks!
RE 2. Would be good to understand what is changing first. If its camber, thats odd. If its toe, that could be due to ride height and fuel levels being different between alignments, or it could be the eccentric bolt(s) are slipping. In the rear you can get locking bolts from Tarett. But probably worth checking if they are moving by using some paint/marker to denote where they are set after an alignment.

3. I have the SM10 forged. Bent 2 going over a right angle curb around 30-40mph. After seeing the curb, I'm not surprised they bent (right angle, 1.5-2 inches high). It is a badly designed section of the track. Since the wheels are light and wide, I am not surprised that they bend. I also bent the stock wheels on the same section of track.

Apex makes heavier and hopefully stronger wheels. You may try using those 'enduro' wheels and see how it goes. Or stay off the curbs, or adjust your struts to be softer for high velocity.

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Old 04-12-2024, 11:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by l30thelion
Even though I've not driven higher end shocks, I bet there's diminishing returns at some point and the car is already up there out of the box.

Also, the perception of the GT cars (GT4/RS, GT3/RS, etc and for good reason) is that they're so good that it's almost like cheating lolz :shrug

I still have lots of work to do on myself but I need 2 seconds....if aero and suspension can get me there I'll take it!
There are certainly diminishing returns at this level. Suspension won't net you 2 seconds though unless we are talking about the Nordschleife, not even close. Aero is different but you will need suspension to support the extra downforce. Sounds like you have a good setup already though. For alignments when I hit curbs like at WGI for example, the car would need aligning after every event. I run in TT as well so it's purely about lap times.

The good thing about the ESC on the GT4 is it doesn't interfere too much, I don't think it will make anyone 'faster' though necessarily. I drove with it on most of the time for my GT4 for that reason, because I'm always pushing hard enough that it might come in handy. It will mask poor driving technique though to some degree, as a pilot with poor fundamentals can get away with basic flaws (i.e. just mashing the pedal on corner exit etc.).. All my prior track cars to the GT4 (BMW's) I drove with all nannies off, and whenever my friends are kind enough to let me lap their race cars its just slicks/aero/ABS and your senses.. Personally I think its good for people to learn with it off, on a skid pad or auto X for example but I can see why its also not worth it. No reason to risk putting your $150k car in the wall for HPDE. I have actually gone back to BMW now as my track car to run in TT later this season but that is a different story
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Old 04-26-2024, 12:06 PM
  #29  
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Upgraded to DSC

Removed Passenger Seat & Installed Antigravity Batter (70lbs total)

Gonna try it out this weekend at Homestead
















Old 04-26-2024, 12:50 PM
  #30  
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Were you that much over weight for NASA TT3 that you could remove ~70#.

Peter


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