Completed Maintenance @ 105K
01-03-2010, 05:09 PM
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Brandon FL
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Completed Maintenance @ 105K
I've been needing the replace the clutch and AOS for about 6 months now and took a week off over the holidays to do the clutch and some other major maintenance items.
I dropped the transmission and pulled the clutch. The clutch was worn, but I was expecting it to have more wear the way it felt. I decided to replace the IMS bearing while I still had the engine supported from the rear mounts and the front support bar. I got the LN Engineering double row replacement and puller tool. Engine was locked TDC1 and all the chain adjusters were removed. The crank to IMS adjuster was badly scored and made a pop as it was pulled out, so it was sticking. The 1-3 had light scoring and 4-6 was in good shape. I decided to replace all three and since they were out. The bearing was suppose to hard to pull and wanted the stability of it still in the mounts. The new puller (different from the picture on the LN and Jakes web sites) worked well and it came out a lot easier then I was anticipating. The bearing was soaked in oil, but still rather tight for 105K. The new bearing went in without too much issue, I got it started. The instruction mention that the flange might need some trimming on the 10-11 o'clock ear if the fly wheel hits it and mine needed some grinding. I replaced the adjusters, confirmed the timing had not changed and turned the engine over two rotations back to TDC 1. I then dropped the engine to replace the chain guides, AOS, and water pump. Dharn55 sent me pictures and a diagram for the cam holder tool which helped out a lot. I pulled the cover for 1-3 and replaced the IMS to cam guides and the cam chain guides. The IMS to cams had some wear in them, but it was minor. For the chain between the cams the one with the oil hole showed major wear and pitting. When I popped it off the o-ring was folded in half and warped, so it was not installed correctly in a previous repair. 1-3 went back together fine and was roughly timed by some marks I placed on the cam sprocket before disassembly. 1-3 adjuster was replaced and engine was turned once to TDC 4. Removing the cam cover on 4-6 was a pain, as you have to drop the header. The 6 bolts were rusty and even after soaking them in BB blaster for about 2 days and hammering on the bolt heads, 4 of the 6 broke off. The pads on 4-6 were in the same shape and 1-3. On reassembly the fixed chain guide bolt broke below torque specs (7.5 ft/lb) and needed to be drilled out and taped. Luckily it was the one by the cam sprocket and was accessible. This stopped reassembly of 4-6 for about 3 days as Suncoast Porsche (Ric Knab was very helpfully making sure the parts arrived with all the holiday down days) had to order the bolt. This gave me time to replace the AOS (which leaking oil everywhere on head 1-3), drill out the broken header bolts on 4-6, water pump, and RMS. Once the new adjusters and cam guide bolt arrived I completed 4-6. The cam holder tool worked well to fix the cams to time the engine. It put the bolts right back on the marks I made before disassembly. Everything went back together without incident, changed the oil and filter. I rechecked everything and started the engine, just long enough for oil pressure to hit 5 bars. After checking everything again, I restarted and let it idle for a minute then shut down to look for leaks, cool down and top off oil and antifreeze. I've put about 100 miles on it so far and everything looks and sounds good. The clutch is much easier than the old one and it seems like the chain noise has decreased with the new adjusters and pads. Total cost was about $2300 (bearing and puller $680, cam holder tool $260, clutch $450, adjusters $292, guides/seals/bolt $290, water pump $110, AOS $120) but I started buying some parts 6 months ago to alleviate wife wrath.
Rick
99 996C4
87 944S
I dropped the transmission and pulled the clutch. The clutch was worn, but I was expecting it to have more wear the way it felt. I decided to replace the IMS bearing while I still had the engine supported from the rear mounts and the front support bar. I got the LN Engineering double row replacement and puller tool. Engine was locked TDC1 and all the chain adjusters were removed. The crank to IMS adjuster was badly scored and made a pop as it was pulled out, so it was sticking. The 1-3 had light scoring and 4-6 was in good shape. I decided to replace all three and since they were out. The bearing was suppose to hard to pull and wanted the stability of it still in the mounts. The new puller (different from the picture on the LN and Jakes web sites) worked well and it came out a lot easier then I was anticipating. The bearing was soaked in oil, but still rather tight for 105K. The new bearing went in without too much issue, I got it started. The instruction mention that the flange might need some trimming on the 10-11 o'clock ear if the fly wheel hits it and mine needed some grinding. I replaced the adjusters, confirmed the timing had not changed and turned the engine over two rotations back to TDC 1. I then dropped the engine to replace the chain guides, AOS, and water pump. Dharn55 sent me pictures and a diagram for the cam holder tool which helped out a lot. I pulled the cover for 1-3 and replaced the IMS to cam guides and the cam chain guides. The IMS to cams had some wear in them, but it was minor. For the chain between the cams the one with the oil hole showed major wear and pitting. When I popped it off the o-ring was folded in half and warped, so it was not installed correctly in a previous repair. 1-3 went back together fine and was roughly timed by some marks I placed on the cam sprocket before disassembly. 1-3 adjuster was replaced and engine was turned once to TDC 4. Removing the cam cover on 4-6 was a pain, as you have to drop the header. The 6 bolts were rusty and even after soaking them in BB blaster for about 2 days and hammering on the bolt heads, 4 of the 6 broke off. The pads on 4-6 were in the same shape and 1-3. On reassembly the fixed chain guide bolt broke below torque specs (7.5 ft/lb) and needed to be drilled out and taped. Luckily it was the one by the cam sprocket and was accessible. This stopped reassembly of 4-6 for about 3 days as Suncoast Porsche (Ric Knab was very helpfully making sure the parts arrived with all the holiday down days) had to order the bolt. This gave me time to replace the AOS (which leaking oil everywhere on head 1-3), drill out the broken header bolts on 4-6, water pump, and RMS. Once the new adjusters and cam guide bolt arrived I completed 4-6. The cam holder tool worked well to fix the cams to time the engine. It put the bolts right back on the marks I made before disassembly. Everything went back together without incident, changed the oil and filter. I rechecked everything and started the engine, just long enough for oil pressure to hit 5 bars. After checking everything again, I restarted and let it idle for a minute then shut down to look for leaks, cool down and top off oil and antifreeze. I've put about 100 miles on it so far and everything looks and sounds good. The clutch is much easier than the old one and it seems like the chain noise has decreased with the new adjusters and pads. Total cost was about $2300 (bearing and puller $680, cam holder tool $260, clutch $450, adjusters $292, guides/seals/bolt $290, water pump $110, AOS $120) but I started buying some parts 6 months ago to alleviate wife wrath.
Rick
99 996C4
87 944S
Last edited by rb101; 06-09-2010 at 08:52 PM.
01-03-2010, 05:13 PM
#2
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Brandon FL
Posts: 277
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first two pictures:
Dry RMS and IMS
Leaking AOS
Next 3:
Crank to IMS adjuster
LN removal tool
Bearing about 1/2 way out
Dry RMS and IMS
Leaking AOS
Next 3:
Crank to IMS adjuster
LN removal tool
Bearing about 1/2 way out
Last edited by rb101; 06-09-2010 at 08:52 PM.
01-03-2010, 06:43 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Boy you have got a lot more guts than I do!!!
great job!!
I think that if I see enough of these do it yourself posts, I may one day have the nerve to try something myself!!
Pete
great job!!
I think that if I see enough of these do it yourself posts, I may one day have the nerve to try something myself!!
Pete
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01-04-2010, 03:59 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Great job!
I just discovered the revised tensioner for the crank to intermediate shaft myself and will probably start recommending its replacement too.
I just discovered the revised tensioner for the crank to intermediate shaft myself and will probably start recommending its replacement too.
01-04-2010, 06:05 PM
#15
Rick-
Very nice job!!! I am planning on doing the same items in the next 30-60 days. I'm about to turn 100k (car runs great) and want another 100k. Will replace cam pads, AOS, WP, IMS. Just need some much warmer weather. We will be in the minus range tonight.
A year ago, I replaced the VarioCam pads and chains in my 968. Was easier because you don't have to remove the engine. The 968 engine had ~100k and showed the same wear as your pics indicated. One cam pad very worn and pitted.
Did you make the 'tools' to secure the cams?
How worn were the chain tensioners (long ones)? Were they difficult to remove/replace?
You pulled the trans and then the engine correct? Did you install them together?
Any 'post' recommendations?
Looks like the new 'puller' threads onto the IMS shaft and pulls the bearing with it. Appears to be a much simpler solution. The previous tools were over $200~300- this looks about 1/10 the $.
Great post.
Very nice job!!! I am planning on doing the same items in the next 30-60 days. I'm about to turn 100k (car runs great) and want another 100k. Will replace cam pads, AOS, WP, IMS. Just need some much warmer weather. We will be in the minus range tonight.
A year ago, I replaced the VarioCam pads and chains in my 968. Was easier because you don't have to remove the engine. The 968 engine had ~100k and showed the same wear as your pics indicated. One cam pad very worn and pitted.
Did you make the 'tools' to secure the cams?
How worn were the chain tensioners (long ones)? Were they difficult to remove/replace?
You pulled the trans and then the engine correct? Did you install them together?
Any 'post' recommendations?
Looks like the new 'puller' threads onto the IMS shaft and pulls the bearing with it. Appears to be a much simpler solution. The previous tools were over $200~300- this looks about 1/10 the $.
Great post.