How do you polish 3M clear bra?
08-07-2010, 11:01 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
How do you polish 3M clear bra?
I've been using an excellent product to remove rubber marks from going to the track, but it leaves residue on the clear bra that doesn't come off with detailing spray, etc. I've been told by the product's manufacturer that I need to polish my clear bra. I have a random orbit machine and quality pads but need to know what product has worked for you. Thanks.
08-07-2010, 12:19 PM
#2
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I've been using an excellent product to remove rubber marks from going to the track, but it leaves residue on the clear bra that doesn't come off with detailing spray, etc. I've been told by the product's manufacturer that I need to polish my clear bra. I have a random orbit machine and quality pads but need to know what product has worked for you. Thanks.
Polishing the film requires figuring out what you're trying to achieve. Are you trying to take out water spots, swirls, or haze. Depending on the polish and pad combo you have, the results will be different.
For the most part, using a polish like Menzerna SIP or Super Finish will yield great results. You should be able to bring back some of the gloss and get rid of some hazing and light swirls. It'll also make any waterspotting less visible.
Oh, almost forgot, what type of film you have makes a difference too. 3M, Venture, Xpel, Avery, etc. will all behave differently. Once you polish, apply a good sealant to protect the film. There really isn't a product on the market SPECIFIC to clear film as it relates to polish and wax. We'll know when there is when the manufacturers back the product with some sort of warranty. Until then, the same stuff used for your car's paint should do a decent job on the clear bra.
Does this help?
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08-07-2010, 02:36 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply Moe. I have 3M clear bra. Hazing is probably the best word to describe the condition of the film. I am concerned about abrading the surface of the film with the random orbit machine because I don't know the proper polishing product to use, so for the 3M film, what should I use? Also what sealant should I put on after the polishing?
08-07-2010, 09:24 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
The 3m guys that installed my clear bra told me to use 70% rubbing alcohol to remove anything on it first then polish over it with a poly sealant by hand or with an orbital. I usually leave it up to my detail guy!
08-07-2010, 09:41 PM
#5
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I've tested IPA on 3M and I don't like the dull finish it leaves. As far as polishing is concerned it can be done with most any fine polish by hand or with orbital polisher. Go easy and check the temp of the film with your hand. Don't allow it to get hot per se. Warm is OK.
Some film installers recommend Plexus. This seems to work well as a light cleaner and protectorant. Normal paint finish products are recommended for the 3M film. I've tested RejeX, Ultima Paint Gard and Plexus. In my experience the RejeX does the best cleaning and the Ultima provides the best surface protection.
YMMV
Some film installers recommend Plexus. This seems to work well as a light cleaner and protectorant. Normal paint finish products are recommended for the 3M film. I've tested RejeX, Ultima Paint Gard and Plexus. In my experience the RejeX does the best cleaning and the Ultima provides the best surface protection.
YMMV
08-08-2010, 09:21 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
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Why is it important not to use products containing solvents?
Acrylic, polycarbonates, and plastics are all porous materials. They will absorb any micro molecule products that you place on their surface over time. Do not use solvents on clear film as they have the ability to degrade the backing and/or adhesive as well its effect on dulling or creating an inconsistent clarity on the surface of the film.
Traditionally, plastic cleaners have been the main source for cleaning vinyl protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for protection film. The chemicals that these cleaners are formulated with and the propellants used (Plexus) can actually be harmful to the film over an extended period as they dry out the micro pores of the vinyl, which then leaves them open to ultra violet (UV) photosynthesis (yellowing).
Solvents will exacerbate problems as they break down, deteriorate and cause the film surface to yellow, there are many ways solvents are introduced to transparencies: washer/cleaner fluids, jet fuel, de-icing fluids, paint thinners, unapproved window cleaners, and polishes. It is very important to read the labels of the products you use around your transparencies. Anything containing, petroleum distillates, ammonia, or alcohol is not recommended.
Acrylic, polycarbonates, and plastics are all porous materials. They will absorb any micro molecule products that you place on their surface over time. Do not use solvents on clear film as they have the ability to degrade the backing and/or adhesive as well its effect on dulling or creating an inconsistent clarity on the surface of the film.
Traditionally, plastic cleaners have been the main source for cleaning vinyl protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for protection film. The chemicals that these cleaners are formulated with and the propellants used (Plexus) can actually be harmful to the film over an extended period as they dry out the micro pores of the vinyl, which then leaves them open to ultra violet (UV) photosynthesis (yellowing).
Solvents will exacerbate problems as they break down, deteriorate and cause the film surface to yellow, there are many ways solvents are introduced to transparencies: washer/cleaner fluids, jet fuel, de-icing fluids, paint thinners, unapproved window cleaners, and polishes. It is very important to read the labels of the products you use around your transparencies. Anything containing, petroleum distillates, ammonia, or alcohol is not recommended.
08-08-2010, 09:24 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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PPF Cleaning / Care
Traditionally, plastic cleaners were the main source for cleaning paint protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for clear bras. Chemicals within plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time.
Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
1. Wash surface with Swisswax Car Bath Opaque shampoo concentrate (500 litres of wash solution) developed for satin matt finishes
2. Use XPEL Paint Protection Film Cleaner a deep cleaning surfactant based product. It is designed to remove oils and environmental contaminants, which are the primary cause of yellowing. It is sprayed on and rinsed off, rather than sprayed on and wiped off.
3. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape (3M Fine Line , 0.25-inch masking tape, 3M fine line plastic). It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’.
4. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Premier Protective Films International (PF1) Film Cleanse for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges
5. Remove surface contaminants with a mild cut detailer’s clay (Sonus Mild Green clay) Be sure to wash the surface of the film first and. keep it well lubricated, tape the edges
6. To clean and maintain the surface any product used on a clear bra should be optically clear and provide UV protection (Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal or PF1 Crystalline) The design of the nano crystals within Crystalline will bond with the acrylic clear coat of your paint protection film providing a long-lasting protective coating
7. Product application - start at the centre and work outwards, do not use an abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches.
8. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well.
9. Use only a mild to light duty clay, applied to a clean, washed surface. Do not use clay over dirt covered film. Use plenty of surface lubrication. If you have a partial bra (not a full panel wrap) tape the seams.
10. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Often it's the adhesive that’s used on the film that turns yellow, not the film itself
11. Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UVR) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location and environmental conditions) Application- use 303™ Space Protectant, spray product onto a micro fibre towel, gently wipe surface working from the centre outwards
12. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint) Use Menzerna Final Finish Polish / Super Finish (PO106FA) and an LC Black Finishing foam pad 1000 RPM / speed # 4-5, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean residue from the edge
Traditionally, plastic cleaners were the main source for cleaning paint protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for clear bras. Chemicals within plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time.
Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
1. Wash surface with Swisswax Car Bath Opaque shampoo concentrate (500 litres of wash solution) developed for satin matt finishes
2. Use XPEL Paint Protection Film Cleaner a deep cleaning surfactant based product. It is designed to remove oils and environmental contaminants, which are the primary cause of yellowing. It is sprayed on and rinsed off, rather than sprayed on and wiped off.
3. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape (3M Fine Line , 0.25-inch masking tape, 3M fine line plastic). It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’.
4. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Premier Protective Films International (PF1) Film Cleanse for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges
5. Remove surface contaminants with a mild cut detailer’s clay (Sonus Mild Green clay) Be sure to wash the surface of the film first and. keep it well lubricated, tape the edges
6. To clean and maintain the surface any product used on a clear bra should be optically clear and provide UV protection (Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal or PF1 Crystalline) The design of the nano crystals within Crystalline will bond with the acrylic clear coat of your paint protection film providing a long-lasting protective coating
7. Product application - start at the centre and work outwards, do not use an abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches.
8. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well.
9. Use only a mild to light duty clay, applied to a clean, washed surface. Do not use clay over dirt covered film. Use plenty of surface lubrication. If you have a partial bra (not a full panel wrap) tape the seams.
10. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Often it's the adhesive that’s used on the film that turns yellow, not the film itself
11. Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UVR) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location and environmental conditions) Application- use 303™ Space Protectant, spray product onto a micro fibre towel, gently wipe surface working from the centre outwards
12. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint) Use Menzerna Final Finish Polish / Super Finish (PO106FA) and an LC Black Finishing foam pad 1000 RPM / speed # 4-5, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean residue from the edge
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08-08-2010, 10:20 AM
#8
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I've been using Carnauba on my clear bra. One year in and it still looks perfect on my DD. I will say however that if bug guts stay on too long it will damage the bra permanently.
One thing that surprises me is the self healing powers of the clear bra on lighter damage. I remember putting swirl scratches into a small section when I was trying to remove embedded bug guts. I decided to wax over the area and look for a way to remove the scratch. A week later when I went back to polish the area the scratches had disappeared. Never expected that.
One thing that surprises me is the self healing powers of the clear bra on lighter damage. I remember putting swirl scratches into a small section when I was trying to remove embedded bug guts. I decided to wax over the area and look for a way to remove the scratch. A week later when I went back to polish the area the scratches had disappeared. Never expected that.
08-08-2010, 03:55 PM
#10
Track Day
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PPF Cleaning / Care
Traditionally, plastic cleaners were the main source for cleaning paint protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for clear bras. Chemicals within plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time.
Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
1. Wash surface with Swisswax Car Bath Opaque shampoo concentrate (500 litres of wash solution) developed for satin matt finishes
2. Use XPEL Paint Protection Film Cleaner a deep cleaning surfactant based product. It is designed to remove oils and environmental contaminants, which are the primary cause of yellowing. It is sprayed on and rinsed off, rather than sprayed on and wiped off.
3. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape (3M Fine Line , 0.25-inch masking tape, 3M fine line plastic). It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’.
4. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Premier Protective Films International (PF1) Film Cleanse for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges
5. Remove surface contaminants with a mild cut detailer’s clay (Sonus Mild Green clay) Be sure to wash the surface of the film first and. keep it well lubricated, tape the edges
6. To clean and maintain the surface any product used on a clear bra should be optically clear and provide UV protection (Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal or PF1 Crystalline) The design of the nano crystals within Crystalline will bond with the acrylic clear coat of your paint protection film providing a long-lasting protective coating
7. Product application - start at the centre and work outwards, do not use an abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches.
8. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well.
9. Use only a mild to light duty clay, applied to a clean, washed surface. Do not use clay over dirt covered film. Use plenty of surface lubrication. If you have a partial bra (not a full panel wrap) tape the seams.
10. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Often it's the adhesive that’s used on the film that turns yellow, not the film itself
11. Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UVR) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location and environmental conditions) Application- use 303™ Space Protectant, spray product onto a micro fibre towel, gently wipe surface working from the centre outwards
12. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint) Use Menzerna Final Finish Polish / Super Finish (PO106FA) and an LC Black Finishing foam pad 1000 RPM / speed # 4-5, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean residue from the edge
Traditionally, plastic cleaners were the main source for cleaning paint protection film. However, these products were never designed specifically for clear bras. Chemicals within plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time.
Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
1. Wash surface with Swisswax Car Bath Opaque shampoo concentrate (500 litres of wash solution) developed for satin matt finishes
2. Use XPEL Paint Protection Film Cleaner a deep cleaning surfactant based product. It is designed to remove oils and environmental contaminants, which are the primary cause of yellowing. It is sprayed on and rinsed off, rather than sprayed on and wiped off.
3. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape (3M Fine Line , 0.25-inch masking tape, 3M fine line plastic). It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’.
4. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Premier Protective Films International (PF1) Film Cleanse for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges
5. Remove surface contaminants with a mild cut detailer’s clay (Sonus Mild Green clay) Be sure to wash the surface of the film first and. keep it well lubricated, tape the edges
6. To clean and maintain the surface any product used on a clear bra should be optically clear and provide UV protection (Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal or PF1 Crystalline) The design of the nano crystals within Crystalline will bond with the acrylic clear coat of your paint protection film providing a long-lasting protective coating
7. Product application - start at the centre and work outwards, do not use an abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches.
8. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well.
9. Use only a mild to light duty clay, applied to a clean, washed surface. Do not use clay over dirt covered film. Use plenty of surface lubrication. If you have a partial bra (not a full panel wrap) tape the seams.
10. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Often it's the adhesive that’s used on the film that turns yellow, not the film itself
11. Providing protection from ultra violet radiation (UVR) is very important to avoid photo synthesis (colour fading / yellowing) UVR protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular 45 to 60 day basis (dependent upon location and environmental conditions) Application- use 303™ Space Protectant, spray product onto a micro fibre towel, gently wipe surface working from the centre outwards
12. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint) Use Menzerna Final Finish Polish / Super Finish (PO106FA) and an LC Black Finishing foam pad 1000 RPM / speed # 4-5, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean residue from the edge
08-08-2010, 06:14 PM
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sorry to take this OT, Larry what color is your car? It looks awesome!
09-28-2010, 02:27 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Timely info for me, thanks.
I have been putting off my wash-clay-polish-sealant-wax (right order, I hope), wondering what to do about the Venture Shield bumper and total hood. It has a couple of deep long scratches from flying road debris, as well as swirls. Good to know it will all come out.
I have been putting off my wash-clay-polish-sealant-wax (right order, I hope), wondering what to do about the Venture Shield bumper and total hood. It has a couple of deep long scratches from flying road debris, as well as swirls. Good to know it will all come out.
10-21-2010, 10:01 AM
#14
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
IMHO, the best way to remove scratches, swirls & haze on a clear bra is to completely remove the bra from your vehicle...period.
The principal purpose in the development of the clear bra was to protect the paint surface of leading painted edges where they are susceptible or prone to impact from flying debris such as bugs or stones. The idea was a good one but far from being perfected and far from the truth, in reality.
Various clear film manufacturers basically produce the same product but have varying characteristics such as anti-yellowing UV-rated vs anti-hardening UV-rated. The end result is one that leads the consumer to believe that the holy grail of paint protection has been miraculously found and that stone chips and bug corpse indentations will now be a thing of the past. If you are one of these believers, think again.
I was one of those people that got caught in the hype of "NASA-inspired" or "Space-engineered polymer protection" and bought my new Cayenne wrapped in this plastic nonsense. The time and attention that was spent meticulously caring for this film was unexplainable. Here was a product that cost almost as much as an old Toyota and yet required more attention and detailing time than the rest of my car! Any time a bug would decide to 'kamikaze' itself on my front valence, the fire brigade would be immediately called out and the corpse along with sun-dried innards would be immediately power-washed off so as to avoid impregnation into the plastic. Fingernails and scuff marks? Don't even get me started....
The plain truth is that any such product that covers your paint for an extended period of time will result in paint discoloration. Some colors are more prone to color variation and degradation than others and exposure to sun and the elements play an important role, however, the end result will be damage to your paint resulting in a mandatory re-spray. This comes as a surprise to many who initially fork out the big bucks to install a clear-bra to prevent damage in the first place.
Today's vehicular anti-corrosion protective measures have been substantially improved. A stone chip no longer exposes bare metal as in the past but exposes sheet metal layered with a zinc-oxide barrier. Porsche has been hot-dip galvanizing their car bodies since the early 1980's with an excellent track record against body corrosion. The likelihood of rust developing on the hood or fenders of your late-model Porsche that is a direct result of a stone chip, is near impossible. So, a few stone chips ruined your day? You're still better off visiting a professional detailer who, if so equipped, will touch up those stone chips. Even a partial respray of your front valence beats dishing out the big bucks for a clear bra. In the end, there's a very good chance that a respray will be required to rid your paint of the discoloration that occured while you had the clear bra in place.
The principal purpose in the development of the clear bra was to protect the paint surface of leading painted edges where they are susceptible or prone to impact from flying debris such as bugs or stones. The idea was a good one but far from being perfected and far from the truth, in reality.
Various clear film manufacturers basically produce the same product but have varying characteristics such as anti-yellowing UV-rated vs anti-hardening UV-rated. The end result is one that leads the consumer to believe that the holy grail of paint protection has been miraculously found and that stone chips and bug corpse indentations will now be a thing of the past. If you are one of these believers, think again.
I was one of those people that got caught in the hype of "NASA-inspired" or "Space-engineered polymer protection" and bought my new Cayenne wrapped in this plastic nonsense. The time and attention that was spent meticulously caring for this film was unexplainable. Here was a product that cost almost as much as an old Toyota and yet required more attention and detailing time than the rest of my car! Any time a bug would decide to 'kamikaze' itself on my front valence, the fire brigade would be immediately called out and the corpse along with sun-dried innards would be immediately power-washed off so as to avoid impregnation into the plastic. Fingernails and scuff marks? Don't even get me started....
The plain truth is that any such product that covers your paint for an extended period of time will result in paint discoloration. Some colors are more prone to color variation and degradation than others and exposure to sun and the elements play an important role, however, the end result will be damage to your paint resulting in a mandatory re-spray. This comes as a surprise to many who initially fork out the big bucks to install a clear-bra to prevent damage in the first place.
Today's vehicular anti-corrosion protective measures have been substantially improved. A stone chip no longer exposes bare metal as in the past but exposes sheet metal layered with a zinc-oxide barrier. Porsche has been hot-dip galvanizing their car bodies since the early 1980's with an excellent track record against body corrosion. The likelihood of rust developing on the hood or fenders of your late-model Porsche that is a direct result of a stone chip, is near impossible. So, a few stone chips ruined your day? You're still better off visiting a professional detailer who, if so equipped, will touch up those stone chips. Even a partial respray of your front valence beats dishing out the big bucks for a clear bra. In the end, there's a very good chance that a respray will be required to rid your paint of the discoloration that occured while you had the clear bra in place.
