maestromaestro

This POS invention has stopped working.

What actually is going on is that, even with a new battery, the fob does not unlock the doors/disarm the system. The red LED indicator lights up when I press the fob button, but - no response from the car.

Granted, there may be something wrong with the circuit in the fob, but I doubt that. In fact, the range was getting progressively shorter, so I replaced the battery in the morning, which did not seem to improve the situation. The unit "clicked" only when I was just on top of the door. In the afternoon - total refusal to disarm.

My battery has been weak - so, by the time I actually went through the ordeal of manually disarming the immobilizer, I had to jump start the car.

Any thoughts - given the symptoms? I don't suppose that it is a matter of programming of the fob - I mean, why would it lose its code? I have changed the battery (12V) before, and it worked.

I hope that it is not the controller - that thing is like $1500 new. And - what for??? Just to annoy??

993/907

Welcome to the Drive Block Haters Club.

First, try your other fob if you have it.
Gordo

NP993

If you have a weak/bad battery, replace it. They can cause all kinds of strange electrical problems. That's the first place I'd look.

maestromaestro

Now, THAT would be too easy, wouldn't it? Of course I don't have another one...

maestromaestro

Hmm... I would try to charge it completely and see if THAT would do anything.

993/907

I agree with Noah.....replace your battery; after all, you are going to need to do it soon anyway and it may cure the problem.
Even though your tired battery indicates it is charged, it may have little "depth" left.
If a new battery doesn't do it let us know; I have some other ideas.....but new battery first.

fullbooker

This may sound stupid, but try this:
Make sure doors and lids are closed, Wiggle key in ignition, remove key, hit fob lock/unlock button.
Good luck!
Phil

maestromaestro

Well, whaddayaknow.... I charged the battery fully, then wiggled the key, wiggled myself in the seat - and lo and behold, the darn thing worked!!!! Hallelujah!!!!

Phil, as much as I was rooting for the wiggling, my money is on Noah's advice - to charge the battery. Let it be a lesson to all of you kids out there.

95 NC 993

Glad to hear about a happy ending to this one. Your 1st line regarding this topic was priceless.

IXLR8

Owners would know what state it is in if they installed a voltmeter...

maestromaestro

"Owners would know what state it is in if they installed a voltmeter..."

Ahem... Well, yea, there is that - or I could have just measured the voltage with a voltmeter. Whereas yours looks good, it seems that for how infrequent one really needs to know the voltage, it is a lot of work. Also, I don't know if you have to run the cables all the way from the battery, rather cut into a positive somewhere nearby and hook up to the ground...

Bill Verburg

Owners of '94, '95 can easily bypass the immobilizer function. '97 & 98 too probably but I haven't looked into that

You need
1) a chip in the DME that does not expect a locking signal from the immobilizer
2) a jumper for relay R61, 964.610.184.00

IXLR8

You could have, but you didn't.

Which is why having one staring at you all the time saves you the repeated trouble of pulling out a DMM.

You're choice. There are many things used as infrequently, yet they are on the dash for confirmation.

I wish I had installed it earlier...as in before my alternator belt failed 110 miles from home last year. Knowing what the battery voltage was would have been nice. It provides options ahead of time.

BTW, it is connected directly to the battery for an always-on condition and a true indication of battery voltage. Installation was a snap.

993/907

Bill Verberg, that's great news.
I had checked with Steve Wiener last year and his take was that it would be a royal PITA to delete the immobilizer in my '95.
Car will be going into my indy's shop this summer, I will pass this along to him.
Gordo

Bill Verburg

You don't even need the chip if you , jump terminals 1/6 and 1/4 on the alarm.

pin27 on the DME connector only needs +12 when the key is in pos II & III(run & start), the alarm has 2 connectors, I is the 15pin, II is the 26pin