mazdaverx7

on my early build 85 i'm having trouble with the headlights. i flip the switch and the lights go up and turn on. i flip the switch down and the headlights go off but do not retract. at no point do i have any dash lights.. i was initially thinking faulty dimmer but that doesnt explain the lack of headlight retraction.. i attempted to remove the headlight switch using a right angle pick to pop it out but it was in the dash really well and i did not want to break it. i'm really not sure where to go from here so any help would be most appreciated.

Crackership

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-05.htm

See if that helps

V2Rocket

you can reach your hand up under the dash and remove the switch, there are little tabs you squeeze.

it is easier to do if you just remove the gauges though

mazdaverx7

ok cool. how do you remove the gauges? i just don't want to break anything attempting to remove the gauges. i'll try reaching under the dash as well. i want to check the solder joints on the switch and test it and clean the contacts.

mazdaverx7

i replaced the headlight relay with a known good one and i still have the same issue. this lead me to remove my headlight switch. i found something a tad troublesome...i dug the melted plastic out of the connecter and still the headlights to the same thing.. it seems that there was a short at one time and maybe it fried the headlight switch.





so there was definatly some wiring issues going on at one point.. the lower pin, 85L burned my finger as if it were red hot. had the key to the accessory position and was reinstalling the switch and the wire that connects to the 85L terminal on the switch literally burned my finger as if it were red hot..twice..i guess i just had to do it again not only out of stupidity but to make sure i was getting burnt by the same wire, lol..

here are pics of my switch for reference:







i can see where the arm travels over the wound wire for the dimmer and i'm sure there are specific ohm measurements for certain intervals but i don't know how to test the thing. looked on www.clarks-garage.com and didn't see anything pertaining directly to testing the headlight switch.. any testing advice would be most appreciated. i'm honestly thinking i should just buy another one anyways..

mazdaverx7

also wanted to ask, why is there a bulb in the headlight connector? it was bad and i replaced it and i don't believe it even works..

FabilichuS

Open the switch, clean all the conectors and spray with contact spray. Maybe its coroded contact or something like that, easy switch to fix

Marajit

This is just more than just a light switch problem.
Feel lucky your car didn't catch on fire.

Many here have commented on this hazard and have urged that the circuit be fused but no one that I know has posted details of the fix, or even better, a pic.

It would be welcome.

mazdaverx7

i'm very suprised that the headlight switch isn't fused, but rather individual fuses for each light which is kinda hoaky.

Marajit

Never mind.
I think I found it.

Now give me your reviews.

http://www.rennbay.com/porsche-944-h...ess-p-111.html

mazdaverx7

still not sure what could be wrong.. all the fuses are fine..and i replaced the switch..same results.

mazdaverx7

i also noted today that no parking lights, marker lights or tail lights are working. i removed the rear marker lights, cleaned the bulb housing, replaced the nasty female blade connectors, cleaned the ground connection and wire by the spare tire, checked all bulbs, cleaned all connections at all lighting sockets in the rear and double checked all fuses. there must be one or two wires that are cut or split or shorted thats causing this. i may start tracing the wiring from the switch..

jpoint

I don't know about the other issues - but for the retraction issue check the relay on the headlight motor. It's under a rubber boot on the side of the motor. Remove the relay, pry the plastic cap off, clean the contacts with 400 grit wet sand paper (use it dry), and put the cap back on, and replace the relay. It might save you from buying the new relay and get the lights to retract.

AKCJ

I also have an 83 and I had the same dash/tail light problem. It's a fairly common problem on the early cars.

After much work and research I was finally able to find the problem. It's a bad connection at one of the multi wire connectors on the back side of the fuse panel. You will need to remove the connectors starting sith the one closest to the passenger side - I can't remember but I think it's the second or third one in. You have to remove the first one to get to the second one and so forth. After you pull it off and inspect the pins it should be obvious which one is the bad connection. On mine the pin was discolored, corroded, and burnt.

The best fix would be to extract the pin connector (male and female) and replace but I wasn't able to do that so I had to splice in a bypass wire.

It's a pain because you don't have much room to work - you have to lay down on the floor with your head on the clutch or brake pedal.

Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start. Note that you can remove some trim and you may be able to remove some hardware to pull the fuse panel down slightly to get some wiggle room.

Please post if you get it (or if you need more help with it).

GL

mazdaverx7

i actually was working on the car before i read the above post and narrowed the issue down to the fuse panel. i believe the above post is spot on. i found that if i move or wiggle the fuse panel the problem goes away or comes back. i will have to find the bad connection there.