jreifler

Requisite disclaimer: I have searched and read all that I could here and elsewhere, and have not found a definitive solution. So . . . it's my first winter with my '84, and it suffers from what appear to be very common cold start / idle / run issues with CIS, but less frequent with the Motronic models. I have not come across any good troubleshooting guides for the 3.2 that suggest anything not yet tried.

The symptoms are fairly simple - when cold (even after 30-45 minutes outside at temps below 50), it starts just fine, struggles to stay running, and then sputters, bucks, and and momentarily loses all power while driving. This lasts around 10 minutes, and once warm, it runs perfectly. Same is true on "cold start" after a night in a heated garage. Starts right up and goes. No issues.

My mechanic (who's a seasoned P car technician) has inspected literally every sensor, plug, vacuum line, and ignition component, etc., and it all checks out. I should also note that we rebuilt this engine entirely when I bought the car. The only remaining theory is that the ECM itself, or the chip are somehow fouled (seller said the chip was aftermarket, but of unknown origin). Mechanic showed me a pic of the ECM board, and there are certainly signs of wear (possibly even water damage, being a Florida car). But I fail to see how cold temps would affect the ECM function.

So, if it runs flawlessly when warm or even "cold" in warm temps, but struggles mightily in cold weather, what could it be? What is affected by ambient temperature alone that would cause these symptoms?

Any insight would be much appreciated.

Amber Gramps

Sounds like something electrical is shrinking in the cold and expanding in the heat. It could be a simple solder joint on your ECM. Mine will only fire if I leave the key in the on position for 5 or more seconds. I know it's the board because I have a second ECM that fires at first tap of the key but doesn't have the chip I like.

Amber Gramps

Sounds like something electrical is shrinking in the cold and expanding in the heat. It could be a simple solder joint on your ECM. Mine will only fire if I leave the key in the on position for 5 or more seconds. I know it's the board because I have a second ECM that fires at first tap of the key but doesn't have the chip I like.

http://www.ecudoctors.com

EDIT:. I swear IB is the stupidest bunch of computer hacks on the planet. Why can't they provide us with a program that isn't this stupid? Just go back to how it was before morons took over. Why is there always an unposted copy of my post left visible on my phone? Try to help out a fellow enthusiast and get pushed closer to euthanasia each and every time.

theiceman

Is your cht sensor the single wire or two wire.
Id replace it regardless of tests. Sounds like its missing cold start enrichment

jreifler

jreifler

Amber Gramps

Take the ECM in the house with you and warm it up to room temperature. Four nuts and it's out. Can't think of an easier test. If it fires and runs great when its room temp you have likely narrowed it down to the ECM.

jreifler

Amber Gramps

LOL... Garage Queen anyone?

Actually, make sure you leave the rest of the car outside away from the heated garage so you get a true differential of what is warm and what is cold.

jreifler

jreifler

Amber Gramps

. Now THAT is what it's all about?

.....but where'd the rebuilt DME come from? ......and Steve's chip is way better than stock.

Even when new different years came with different chips, there wasn't just a single 3,2 chip. My stock '88 chip out-performed my extra DME from an '84. I think the '88 chip was the same map as the Clubsport cars. I run a Multi-board with multiple maps.

jreifler

Amber Gramps

Yep. Mine had it.

Is your black wire plugged in or not plugged in? There is a secret worth a few extra ponies.

Oh, and if you want that chip to really wake up your car start searching for what some of us are doing with 4 spittle injectors.

jreifler

It’s unplugged now. 😆

Where to source the injectors?