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Old 02-25-2024, 08:11 PM
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ahenthus
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Default Shifter Problem

I've had a problem engaging 1st gear for a while now and a bit of occasional grinding when shifting to 2nd. 1st is just hard to push into gear, 2nd is easy even with the occasional grind. I've always attributed the 2nd gear problem to a failing synchro but hoping the sloppy shifter was the problem. Not sure about the 1st gear problem. I've discounted any clutch adjustment because it's only in 1st and does fine in the other 3 gears except for the occasional 2nd grind. I was almost ready to order a Stomski shift coupler but upon pulling the access door and checking the OEM coupler it seems tight with no play except fore and aft and the two bushings associated with it seem tight with no play at all. I know the Stomski is a great upgrade from OEM but if the OEM is still in good shape I'd rather not change it out yet. This all leads me to believe that the two bushings up front are probably worn out and causing the fore and aft play I'm experiencing. It surely would be a cheaper fix. Is it realistic to believe that the nylon bushing under at the bottom of the shift lever and the nylon donut bushing on the shaft behind it would cause it to missalign enough to cause metal to metal when trying to engage 1st. I think the donut bushing may be more apt to cause the 1st gear problem but not a big deal as far as the fore and aft movement. Any chance replacing both would cure both problems? I'm planning on doing it soon but maybe looking for a little reassurance.
Old 02-25-2024, 08:29 PM
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It is a cheap and easy task to replace those shifter bushings . . it needs to be done either way. Install them and they could solve your problem or . . your problems may be deeper in the trans.
Old 02-25-2024, 08:30 PM
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Also your coupler may be in need of adjustment.
Old 02-25-2024, 11:54 PM
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ahenthus
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Thanks Rowing. I’m pretty sure my transmission is fine internally. The 1st gear thing is intermittent and when it balks at going into gear you can feel that it’s a mechanical stop in the shifter or linkage. Looking at a few YouTube videos I think misalignment is causing a steel tab to be butted against. When aligning the coupler in the rear of the tunnel you have to have the shifter flush against the right side of the housing so it’s logical that loose bushings may intermittently cause the 1st engagement to be off.
Old 02-26-2024, 11:37 AM
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The coupler adjustment also controls the forward back limits of your shifting . . the youtube videos suggest the rear coupler adjustment is one and done but my experience is that is requires more trial and error than suggested.
Old 02-26-2024, 11:43 AM
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darwistj1
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Originally Posted by ahenthus
I've had a problem engaging 1st gear for a while now and a bit of occasional grinding when shifting to 2nd. 1st is just hard to push into gear, 2nd is easy even with the occasional grind. I've always attributed the 2nd gear problem to a failing synchro but hoping the sloppy shifter was the problem. Not sure about the 1st gear problem. I've discounted any clutch adjustment because it's only in 1st and does fine in the other 3 gears except for the occasional 2nd grind. I was almost ready to order a Stomski shift coupler but upon pulling the access door and checking the OEM coupler it seems tight with no play except fore and aft and the two bushings associated with it seem tight with no play at all. I know the Stomski is a great upgrade from OEM but if the OEM is still in good shape I'd rather not change it out yet. This all leads me to believe that the two bushings up front are probably worn out and causing the fore and aft play I'm experiencing. It surely would be a cheaper fix. Is it realistic to believe that the nylon bushing under at the bottom of the shift lever and the nylon donut bushing on the shaft behind it would cause it to missalign enough to cause metal to metal when trying to engage 1st. I think the donut bushing may be more apt to cause the 1st gear problem but not a big deal as far as the fore and aft movement. Any chance replacing both would cure both problems? I'm planning on doing it soon but maybe looking for a little reassurance.
I would agree to start with the bushings up front before adjusting or replacing the coupler. Would be the easiest fix. Once you loosen the coupler the complexity of your project increases. Very doable but more precise adjustments and trial and error begin.
Old 02-26-2024, 01:57 PM
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Sajan
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If one were to want to refresh components under the shifter and in the tunnel in front of the rear seats, what all would they be?

I am hoping to keep things stock though I am tempted to look at the Jwest short shifter for the G50.
Old 02-26-2024, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Sajan
If one were to want to refresh components under the shifter and in the tunnel in front of the rear seats, what all would they be?

I am hoping to keep things stock though I am tempted to look at the Jwest short shifter for the G50.
To refresh is very simple .. its only 2 delrin bushings . its a donut that guides the shift rod and a Cup pushing that the bottom of the shifter goes into , that's it .. this is rarely the issue though , it is usually the coupler .. if you removes the panel between the two rear seats under the carpet you will be able to see immediately if the plastic inserted into the coupler is starting to crumble. it should be clean and tight.
Old 02-26-2024, 03:19 PM
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The shifter bushings are only $20 . replace them, drive the car, if you still have an issue readjust the shifter coupling. Adding a short shifter kit will not solve your problem. Also go to Stella Auto and buy their shifter spring if it fits your application.
Old 02-26-2024, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rowingone
The shifter bushings are only $20 . replace them, drive the car, if you still have an issue readjust the shifter coupling. Adding a short shifter kit will not solve your problem. Also go to Stella Auto and buy their shifter spring if it fits your application.
SS kit will actually make transmission shift linkage issues worse as you have less mechanical advantage. Always make sure your shifting is top notch before going to any SS kit.
Old 02-26-2024, 05:25 PM
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Shifter bushing: 914-424-224-00
Shift lever ball socket: 911-424-139-00
I'm sure these fit all but mine is a 4speed.
I ordered them off Amazon for a total of $16.56 with free shipping and here tomorrow, I think.
Old 02-26-2024, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ahenthus
Shifter bushing: 914-424-224-00
Shift lever ball socket: 911-424-139-00
I'm sure these fit all but mine is a 4speed.
I ordered them off Amazon for a total of $16.56 with free shipping and here tomorrow, I think.
sounds like you are ready to rock and roll..
Old 02-26-2024, 05:44 PM
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ahenthus
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Originally Posted by darwistj1
I would agree to start with the bushings up front before adjusting or replacing the coupler. Would be the easiest fix. Once you loosen the coupler the complexity of your project increases. Very doable but more precise adjustments and trial and error begin.
My thoughts exactly. I ordered the front bushings last night as seen in my post above a few minutes ago. I'll see what that does then I'll tackle the Stomski coupler if needed. Looking into the cubby hole in front of the rear seats and fiddling with it, my OEM coupler seems fine and tight with no bushing shavings or any other trash below it. Looking at the various videos on Youtube I was prepared for a nasty cubby hole but mine was basically pristine. My car has 49,000 miles on it but it's lead a garaged life for the last 37 years.
Old 02-27-2024, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ahenthus
My thoughts exactly. I ordered the front bushings last night as seen in my post above a few minutes ago. I'll see what that does then I'll tackle the Stomski coupler if needed. Looking into the cubby hole in front of the rear seats and fiddling with it, my OEM coupler seems fine and tight with no bushing shavings or any other trash below it. Looking at the various videos on Youtube I was prepared for a nasty cubby hole but mine was basically pristine. My car has 49,000 miles on it but it's lead a garaged life for the last 37 years.
sounds like some minor adjustments may be required, Does take a bit of trial and error and definitely will be after you do the front area.
Old 02-27-2024, 09:00 PM
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RELATING TO A G50 shifter for a 87+ 911.

seems like these two kits cover the 4 parts for the shifter area?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...T3N#kitsComAnc
https://www.jwestengineering.com/G50...-Kit_p_26.html

do I need to do the 950 424 124 01 Shift-lever bearing (#3 on the diagram)?

Last edited by Sajan; 02-28-2024 at 04:14 PM.


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