suspension bushing question
#16
Rick, It's funny that you mention that the front sqeaks after installing bigger T-bars. I did the same thing had major front squeeks up to about 40mph (I put in 22mm solids). It was like a rocking chair. I made my mechanic pull the bars (at his expense) and re-lube them and it seemed to work for 10k miles or so. Squeaks have returned off and on since, but finally the bars have settled (albiet worn a groove or something) and the squeaks are gone.(after about 30k miles)
Thanks Steve for the answer. I want to go Polybronze, but I LOVE my current alignment/set-up! I'll have to weigh my options. Not sure though why a corner balance would be necessary given the car weight/distro should remain the same?(car was CB during last suspension upgrade) I guess the car would lean a few mm one way or another from the old bushings?
FWIW, I have Neatrix rear bushings and have had zero squeeks or problems. Thanks.
Thanks Steve for the answer. I want to go Polybronze, but I LOVE my current alignment/set-up! I'll have to weigh my options. Not sure though why a corner balance would be necessary given the car weight/distro should remain the same?(car was CB during last suspension upgrade) I guess the car would lean a few mm one way or another from the old bushings?
FWIW, I have Neatrix rear bushings and have had zero squeeks or problems. Thanks.
#17
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Keith:
From experience, its damned near impossible to retain the alignment settings after the bushing replacement job,..
Getting it "close enough" results in a car that wanders, pulls to one side, and generally doesn't steer well. Tire wear is also compromised. To do this job correctly, one should budget for a realignment,..........
If ones uses the Weltmeiser adjustable spring plates, be sure to use the Poly-Bronze bushings instead of the horrible urethane ones they come with.
From experience, its damned near impossible to retain the alignment settings after the bushing replacement job,..
Getting it "close enough" results in a car that wanders, pulls to one side, and generally doesn't steer well. Tire wear is also compromised. To do this job correctly, one should budget for a realignment,..........
If ones uses the Weltmeiser adjustable spring plates, be sure to use the Poly-Bronze bushings instead of the horrible urethane ones they come with.
#18
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Hi Keith:
From experience, its damned near impossible to retain the alignment settings after the bushing replacement job,..
....
From experience, its damned near impossible to retain the alignment settings after the bushing replacement job,..
....
Keith
'88 Carrera
#19
Hey Steve, and everyone else
In re-doing the rear would you just blast the old plates and have re-plated or buy the welt one's.
Does someone else make better rear plates than welt?
thanks.
*I've been reading your posts for years Steve, just wanted to say thank you. I'd be a complete idiot without everybody's help here.
In re-doing the rear would you just blast the old plates and have re-plated or buy the welt one's.
Does someone else make better rear plates than welt?
thanks.
*I've been reading your posts for years Steve, just wanted to say thank you. I'd be a complete idiot without everybody's help here.
#20
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Jerry:
LOL,..Its been a pleasure to help people and I'm very pleased that you have found something constructive & useful in my postings.
To address your question,.........
We've done this both ways; clean & replate the factory spring plates in yellow zinc or install the Weltmeister ones when someone wants that resolution of adjustability.
Wevo is gearing up to make a needle-bearing set of spring plates but they will not be cheap. Like everything they do, its geared toward competition usage and is first-rate!
On the whole, the Weltmeister ones, fitted with Poly-bronze bushings, works really well.
LOL,..Its been a pleasure to help people and I'm very pleased that you have found something constructive & useful in my postings.
To address your question,.........
We've done this both ways; clean & replate the factory spring plates in yellow zinc or install the Weltmeister ones when someone wants that resolution of adjustability.
Wevo is gearing up to make a needle-bearing set of spring plates but they will not be cheap. Like everything they do, its geared toward competition usage and is first-rate!
On the whole, the Weltmeister ones, fitted with Poly-bronze bushings, works really well.
Last edited by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems; 12-11-2004 at 08:25 PM.
#22
I must be the "near-impossible" guy, because I replaced front and rear bushings, and went to hollow torsion bars, car drove perfectly all the way to shop where they had it aligned and corner balanced in 45 min because everything was so close. This was my first time doing anything like this on a 911, so before starting I marked all mating parts and measured ride heights. Between the way the splines work and changing to the stiffer hollow bars there was some extra work getting the car to the correct stance that could have been done in minutes with the spring plates. But it all came out great, well worth the time and effort, and certainly something that can be done by a first-timer as long as you plan and work carefully.
One tip for removing the old rear rubber bushings, knock off the end cap and the heat from a torch will flow right through and the old rubber will slide off easy as can be.
One tip for removing the old rear rubber bushings, knock off the end cap and the heat from a torch will flow right through and the old rubber will slide off easy as can be.