quattrorunner

OK, it will fail? I'll do a search there.
Peter, I must have skipped your reply, sorry. I will post some shots today to show the damage. Untill a minute ago, I thought I had an awsome saturday oil change oil line repair project. I will probably still do the repair and plan on a future replacement of the lines. The cooler is basic and I plan to do a budget air scoop/shroud with fan and mesh protection. I really think the repaired lines will help a lot as I don't drive hard at all(sustained high revs).

quattrorunner

So here are some photos of the oil lines. The one that goes up is sandblasted.
The lines are too damaged right? Why else would my car run consistantly hot in cruise mode?

ron mcatee

Yes, that is the major contributor to the cause.

Peter Zimmermann

Ouch! Those lines are pretty bad, however, keep your fingers crossed that they are most/all of your problem. We replaced a set on a car once (they were almost as bad as yours) but the new lines made very little difference. Then we pulled out the alternator housing and found all the debris that was plugging up the top of the engine oil cooler! From that point on we scolded customers who thought it would be convenient to keep a couple of rags/paper towels in the engine compartment to use for checking the oil, which is not a good idea,
Pete

quattrorunner

Ha! that is actually funny(not that it damaged an engine) I heard a horable noise one time thinking the worst, I opened the engine compartment to see my oil cap getting massaged by the crank pully(is that what you call it) another time I had a similar thing when I had an empty oil jug in there getting cut by the belt. Moral of that story is don't leave anything in the engine compartment. I have a jug of pentosin in the engine compartment next to my airbox in my audi a6 quattro Avant (it leaks this liquid gold a little and it's not too hot there) I like to describe myself as a bonehead.
Thanks for replies, I will be patching this saturday and post pics of the repair. This will be a not forever fix butshould work to get oil to the cooler.

ron mcatee

Pete, what are those hard oil lines made of? A friend has a repair shop here in San Antonio and he does a lot of oil line repars for customers who can't or don't want to buy new expensive ones. He may use aluminum or brass, possibly copper. But as stated before, copper corrodes over time. Just how fast it corrodes is unknown by me.

Mysterytrain

Let me add my 2 cents...I have a 78SC..with a fresh rebuild bumped up to 3.2 SS and a 28 tube brass cooler. Before the rebuild the engine had some major oil leaks and some temp issues. Mobil 1 was out of the question for me and I'm surprised that you are able to use it with leaking. Once the engine was dropped we found the engine cooler to be very heavily coated with black crud from the oil leaks. Besides your crushed oil lines you might have an issue with the engine cooler. I can't imagine a 200K mile car with a clean cooler. For the record my car almost always runs under 210 degrees even in the steamest New Jersey summer days. I saw no change in temps when I removed the engine lid condenser. The trombone cooler has to go! If and when I reinstall my A/C I will most likely upgrade to the Carrera cooler/fan.

Peter Zimmermann

Spider: The lines are brass. Being in L.A., at least this applied a few years ago, when we needed replacement lines we could find them used, or buy them in the aftermarket and discount the suggested retail an appropriate amount. In either case it cost our customer less than a repair, and we, as a shop, would not have a potential liability issue (crud in the line knocked loose, etc.) to worry about. I actually cannot recall ever seeing one of those lines repaired.
Pete

photoguy

I'm having a similar problem on my recently purchased 83 911sc. In 90 degree weather and stop and go in-town driving, the temp gauge can go to just under the white mark - I'm assuming that would be around 240 degrees. Also, I have four crimps in the supply line - one more severe than the others. The trombone gets extremely hot.

I had some work done on my 944 and my mechanic (great guy) loaned me a laser temp sensor. When the car is showing roughly 240, shooting the temp sensor with the laser shows 218 to 220. The trombone varies from 190 to 220 depending on where I shoot it.

For Florida driving should I just automatically install a real oil cooler? I do plan to replace the line but have been told not to expect miracles from that. I haven't checked the timing yet.

Any other ideas for how to run cooler? Am I expecting too much considering it's about a billion degrees in Florida this time of year (and on pavement even hotter than that)?

Mitch

theiceman

Photoguy

I am surprised you still have the trombone cooler living in Florida, I would have thought all you guys would have upgraded to the carrera type oil cooler with the fan by now.. That is what I would do anyway.

photoguy

I just brought it down from Virginia. Even there, it was rarely driven as it has only 72K actual.

Would you think my numbers are out of line for having the trombone given the environment? It takes a long time (45 minutes or more) to get to the higher temps.

I found a Carerra cooler in a local salvage yard and the Mocal distributor is just down the road from me (I talked at length with a Porsche guy there and was impressed with his honesty). So now I have to decide if I should go used Porsche for much more - or new Mocal.

Thanks -

Mitch

theiceman

The should be tonnes of local Porscge guys that can answer your questions. Not much cooling problems here other than a few days a year.

ron mcatee

Mitch, if you are in the Porsche Club of America, there should be many local folks willing to help you trouble shoot your problem and offer good advice. Whichever way you go, you need to put a fan on the cooler. You'll be very happy with the results. Here in south Texas it gets real hot as it does in Florida. I have an 88 Carrera with a factory cooler and fan, but the thermoswitch from the factory was 244 degrees F before it actuated the fan. I obtained a BMW thermoswitch from Pelican Parts for about $11 and put it in the cooler. Since it is in the original wiring, it comes on automatically at 208-210 degrees F. Since you have no wiring for a fan, you can easily wire it in.

photoguy

Thanks Spider - I am in the PCA and will look into getting some thoughts. In fact, they have something going on next weekend not far from where I live.

I had also gone back and forth on the fan - but I'm pretty much convinced to do it.

Now I have to decide if I want to change the supply line right now or see what happens with the cooler/fan combination. Mine isn't quite as as bad as the pics above but there is one good ding among a few smaller ones.

Mitch

quattrorunner

OK, so i repaired the 90 degree part that had such a bad dent. Looking through the pipe, it was deffinatly a restriction. Well , I found that brass melts before copper! It's ok, I adjusted the torch and filled the hole. I cleaned the line as best I could with high pressure water and air. Installed the line, started the engine and let it runto temp then drove the car. The differance is there is no differance. I didn't repair both lines and dents, I was able to pull some of the other dentd up and it has acceptable flow(it is bent rather that dented kinda flattened but still has good flow) so peter was right. Now tonight I'll be replacing the belt and while Im in there(I know) I'll remove the fan and housing to pull any crap that may be in there. I'll keep you posted.