I have a front water leak...Please help
05-31-2006, 09:31 PM
#17
Team Owner
Mechanics ? we have nothing against them ... we are just not pompus Porsche owners in this forum .. instead we are just incedibly cheap ! :-)
06-01-2006, 09:20 AM
#19
ok. sorry for asking.
Keep up the good work. Since I don't know one inch of DIY or mechanics I guess I'll just have to go on being a pompous porsche owner.
Keep up the good work. Since I don't know one inch of DIY or mechanics I guess I'll just have to go on being a pompous porsche owner.
06-01-2006, 04:10 PM
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
Driving without a windshield. Body shop estimate.
Went to the body shop. It will only be a few hundred dollars to buzz the rust bubble off and repaint the cowl. But as I said earlier, I am gonna take care of the paint flaking off and a bunch of dings on the drip rails, and repaint the front bumper. To do the drip rails right, unfortunately, you need to repaint the entire roof and sunroof too. Total will be about 1200 dollars including reinstallation of front and rear windows. I was going to do the window seals, but their procedure includes the use of epoxy, to prevent this from happening again, so I opted to go with them.
Want to hear a wild story about the paint shop though? The shop owner right away said the car looked very familiar. Well it turns out that the paint shop owner used to own my car in the mid 1980's. Then he gave it to his son, who then moved to Montana and sold the car. Well, that fits, because the owner before me was from Montana, and this was a Montanam PCA club car. I told Scott (paint guy) that the PPI receipt I have from 1989 mentions that the car was in a passenger side front fender wreck, and that the panel was not replaced, and Scott said yes that was how he gave the car to his son. I found this paint shop (Phil's Body Shop) in Seattle because Gerber Motorsports referred me to them. Gerber said they get all their work done there.
Scott will use Glassurit paint. I have an appointment for mid June.
Last topic: Driving without the windshield at highway speeds was wild. Like a motorcycle ride. But I also appreciated the effect the windshield has on handling. Either because of a windsock effect that puts lift on the car, or the lack of a downward effect because the wind no longer pushes down on the windshield, or possibly both, the car handling is not very tight. It drove like when I had the front anti-roll bar off the car.
Want to hear a wild story about the paint shop though? The shop owner right away said the car looked very familiar. Well it turns out that the paint shop owner used to own my car in the mid 1980's. Then he gave it to his son, who then moved to Montana and sold the car. Well, that fits, because the owner before me was from Montana, and this was a Montanam PCA club car. I told Scott (paint guy) that the PPI receipt I have from 1989 mentions that the car was in a passenger side front fender wreck, and that the panel was not replaced, and Scott said yes that was how he gave the car to his son. I found this paint shop (Phil's Body Shop) in Seattle because Gerber Motorsports referred me to them. Gerber said they get all their work done there.
Scott will use Glassurit paint. I have an appointment for mid June.
Last topic: Driving without the windshield at highway speeds was wild. Like a motorcycle ride. But I also appreciated the effect the windshield has on handling. Either because of a windsock effect that puts lift on the car, or the lack of a downward effect because the wind no longer pushes down on the windshield, or possibly both, the car handling is not very tight. It drove like when I had the front anti-roll bar off the car.
06-01-2006, 06:06 PM
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
Randy,
The car has been repainted in sections (I guess after the wreck in 1989). Scott said it overall looked like a quality job. However he said it looked like the painters had been lazy and didn't sand the bottom of the gutters on the drip guards and this is why the paint is flaking...because they painted on top of paint.
My referral source said Phil's is a high quality body shop, and the owner said to repaint the car properly would require taking it down to bare metal. He said that would take $7-10,000.
Well, overall the paint still looks incredible. Not just good to me, but incredible. I couldn't justify removing paint from any of the panels. It even kills me to think I might have to repaint the roof because it looks so nice. But the flaking paint needs to be addressed now. In addition, the car cost me $7k, so it is hard for me to want to spend that much just on paint.
I think I will just get the car protected from rust and splurge a little on the few cosmetics mentioned above. What are your thoughts.
The car has been repainted in sections (I guess after the wreck in 1989). Scott said it overall looked like a quality job. However he said it looked like the painters had been lazy and didn't sand the bottom of the gutters on the drip guards and this is why the paint is flaking...because they painted on top of paint.
My referral source said Phil's is a high quality body shop, and the owner said to repaint the car properly would require taking it down to bare metal. He said that would take $7-10,000.
Well, overall the paint still looks incredible. Not just good to me, but incredible. I couldn't justify removing paint from any of the panels. It even kills me to think I might have to repaint the roof because it looks so nice. But the flaking paint needs to be addressed now. In addition, the car cost me $7k, so it is hard for me to want to spend that much just on paint.
I think I will just get the car protected from rust and splurge a little on the few cosmetics mentioned above. What are your thoughts.
06-02-2006, 12:20 AM
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
Ah yes, that hole in the corner. Don't worry, I pointed it out to Scott and that is an easy weld. I guess I should be happy, because had it not been for the hole, I wouldn't have known that the seal was failing. In Seattle, if I used the car as a daily driver, it probably would have rusted the metal rim out in a year.
I am having slippery slope thoughts of doing the headliner myself before I turn the car over to the painters. It's a Wayne project, and it would be best to do now with the front and rear glass out. But I don't know, the headliner isn't that bad. It is white, and the rest of the interior is black, so if I redo it I will do it in black.
I am having slippery slope thoughts of doing the headliner myself before I turn the car over to the painters. It's a Wayne project, and it would be best to do now with the front and rear glass out. But I don't know, the headliner isn't that bad. It is white, and the rest of the interior is black, so if I redo it I will do it in black.
06-02-2006, 01:46 AM
#26
I might go for the panel only - but what is the car worth is I guess more imp. than what you paid... and what you have to spend is most imp. of all...
Have him remove the rubber spacer and then mask.
Have him remove the rubber spacer and then mask.
06-02-2006, 02:12 AM
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Randy,
You sound like you have been here before. Scott already mentioned to me specifically that he was going to remove the rubber spacer at the cowl, mask then paint. I get the impression he knows his stuff when he talked to me. I think you know the feeling. The car is worth much more than 7k, and I have the money to repaint the whole thing, but it definitely doesn't need it. I want to paint as little as possible. Scott said it is still possible to avoid repainting the roof in the process of repairing the gutters. He said he would use compressed air to get under the flaking, and if the flaking stops at the gutter, then he could remove all the paint from the gutters and just repaint them. Have you ever heard of this? Steve Weiner told me that it was common with the older paints because Porsche had not yet perfected the UV resistance in its paints. At the time we spoke, I did not realize there had been a respray.
I couldn't take closeups of the flaking very well, but it is easy to see in the gutter the original paint underneath still shiny, so Scott is probably right that the previous painters were lazy and didn't prep the gutters properly.
You sound like you have been here before. Scott already mentioned to me specifically that he was going to remove the rubber spacer at the cowl, mask then paint. I get the impression he knows his stuff when he talked to me. I think you know the feeling. The car is worth much more than 7k, and I have the money to repaint the whole thing, but it definitely doesn't need it. I want to paint as little as possible. Scott said it is still possible to avoid repainting the roof in the process of repairing the gutters. He said he would use compressed air to get under the flaking, and if the flaking stops at the gutter, then he could remove all the paint from the gutters and just repaint them. Have you ever heard of this? Steve Weiner told me that it was common with the older paints because Porsche had not yet perfected the UV resistance in its paints. At the time we spoke, I did not realize there had been a respray.
I couldn't take closeups of the flaking very well, but it is easy to see in the gutter the original paint underneath still shiny, so Scott is probably right that the previous painters were lazy and didn't prep the gutters properly.
06-02-2006, 03:13 AM
#28
Intermediate
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Location: Seattle
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06-02-2006, 12:39 PM
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Yes. John is a great guy. I went to him once with my a-arms and new ball joints. I couldn't get the old ball joints off. I had never met him and didn't have an appointment. He had them changed in a few hours and he didn't charge me anything. I offered to pay, but he insisted he wouldn't take anything. His shop is in Seattle and I am on the other side of the lake (the microsoft side) but it is worth the 30 min drive. I am reading this long thread on Pelican where he talks this guy step by step (along with others) into rebuilding a 915 transmission (rcecale's).
I've never heard of any mechanic doing anything for free for somebody who just came in off the street.
