codyfr

Now, I could just be an idiot. Before getting this car, the oldest thing I had ever driven was a 1990 subaru. So now I have a 1969 911t, and I always have trouble getting it started.

I turn the ignition switch until the oil light comes on, then I pump the gas peddle twice, pull the throttle all the way on, and then try and turn the started motor. If I am lucky, the engine will kick for a second and then die. Each time I do this, it gets a bit better, lasting a little bit longer, and then it dies. Usually by the 10th try, I can get it to maintain an idle, atleast with the throttle at least half way on.

Sorry for not knowing the technical details, I don't know a lot about engines, but I'm working on that.

butzip

If I remember correctly, the 69 T had Zenith carbs. What are you running for induction? Zenith / weber / FI?

I would with your ignition system / fuel pump

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi:

You did not say whether you are having trouble during cold or hot starts, but I will offer that everything must be perfect to start & run right,..

1) Fresh fuel filter

2) Points in good shape with correct gap

3) Distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs must be perfect

3) Ignition timing must be spot on

4) Float levels must be PERFECT

Once all these things check out OK, then all you need to do is work on your starting drill. These carburetors do not have any choke or cold-start circuit, instead relying on the accelerator pumps for cold-start enrichment and your right foot to keep it running. If it sits for a few days, the fuel evaporates from the float bowls so you need to turn the key on and leave it for a bit to allow the pump to refill them.

Then, pump the pedal 6 or 8 times and try it.

Peter Zimmermann

A. To start an early 911 with carbs (cold engine)...

1. Depress clutch
2. Turn ignition key
3. As the starter engages "pump" the gas pedal, at least halfway down, release and do again
4. When engine catches use whatever amount of throttle (foot) is necessary to keep running at low revs (you will probably find that gentle applications of the gas pedal, between closed and about one third, will work the best). The reason for pumping the throttle - the cold engine can use the fresh fuel, which richens the mixture, from the accelerator pump nozzles. Even CIS cars, '73.5 - 83, use this same principle, but it's done automatically with an injector mounted on the airbox. Remember, it's very easy to confuse a carbureted, cold, 911 engine, it doesn't want to be revved quickly or very high.

Notes: Waiting for an oil light does nothing. Don't bother with the hand throttle unless the car is already running, but with a very low idle, and you're stationary and don't want the car to stall. Do not hold the gas pedal at full throttle - all this does is lean out the mixture too much.

B Starting (warm engine)...

1. Depress throttle pedal to the floor (one time only!) and hold it down
2. Crank engine
3. When engine catches release the throttle - of course, you will have to practice this a little until you get it just right. This is a timing thing and you should be able to control the throttle so the revs don't get above 3K. The reason for the open throttle - the open butterflies in the base of the carbs permit a flow of cool, clean air to enter the engine, forcing the dirty air in the intake manifold to pass through the combustion chambers.

These cars are not all the same and exceptions to the above exist. I used to maintain a car that would never start right, years later we had to take the engine apart for a bent valve and discovered that someone had been in there before and had botched the deck height. With piston to combustion chamber clearance far to tight that car wouldn't start well, after we put the engine back together all was well! Also, much simpler, your dwell/timing might not be set right, your carb float levels might have a problem, etc. Try the above, odds are good that you will enjoy starting the car.
Pete

codyfr

Thanks for the directions, I'll give them a try. The car was worked on a lot right before I got it, so I am not positive what was replaced and what wasn't. The engine is new, as is the distributor, but there could be something else causing a problem.

Mike Murphy

I drove a 1949 Chevy truck in high school, and a 1968 Nova with a 4-barrel carb, so it was always a lot of fun starting up in hot or cold weather. It helps to get a feel for weather the engine is starving for fuel or doesn't have enough fuel. Here are some tricks I've used in the past:

Once you first try to start the engine and it turns over and catches, you can keep almost any engine running by constantly twitching the gas pedal with your right foot between 0-20% throttle. After about 10-30 seconds, you only have to hold the throttle at 5-10% to keep the revs just above idle to warm up the engine.

For a flooded engine: Flooring and holding the gas pedal while cranking will "air-out" the engine if it's flooded and hot, but won't do much to start a cold engine.

For a fuel-starved engine: Pumping the accelerator injects fuel into the engine and will almost always get the engine to catch for a short while if cold. Do this prior to cranking the engine, not while cranking. If done repeatedly and on a hot engine, it can flood the engine.