dshepp806

I would suggest a bit of training, so as to apply a true submission hold (full nelson? WTF?) , blindly ignoring any "tapouts".,....would have drastically reduced your amount of effort, reducing his, as well..

That's just frikin' terrible, Doug......animals must be handled as animals.

Best of luck to you and your daughter's recovery...unfrikin' believable.

Best,

Doyle

Amber Gramps

The phone rings at 7:00 this morning...It's the mother asking if the short bus can drop the kid off as usual. It was all my wife could do to tell her no further contact was necessary.

rberry951

Hancock needs to toss this kid...

Amber Gramps

...

aracer

3.2 CHIP REPLACEMENTS? THEY DO NOTHING, NEVER DID...EXCEPT WHEN A SLIGHTLY HIGHER REV LIMITER WAS NEEDED VS GEAR CHANGE AT TRACK. I've always liked the 3.2 for our DE participants due to it's inherent reliablity-runs like a NYC cab. NEVER understood being talked into "mod" to that perfect setup from the factory. so many other areas of car to improve lap times from-M

Amber Gramps

So, you've driven my car, say, what, some 15,000 miles like I have? Chip in, Chip out, 91 octane, 93 octane, 95 octane, with and without a cat, on long and short trips? Now we have three nut jobs, me included. Funny how this isn't a thread about DE or even racing. It's about two guys swapping the two best chips on the market. The debate over chips changing things is long since over. Sorry you didn't get in on that discussion. You are correct in your view that the factory made a great chip. My car was built November of '87 and got a great factory chip. But, after 74,000 miles the car needed a little somethin' somethin' to help it out. In walked a great street chip. One that helped primarily with the fuel map. It's a new car and the chip brought it ti life. Fantastic throttle response, linear climb up the RPM's, and a rev limiter that doesn't shut the party down when it's just getting started. If that makes me an idiot for falling for the hype, then I am in good company. It's as elementary as t-bars and tires if you want to talk about changing what the factory did.

rusnak

Hi guys, this is OT from this thread, but checking back in

I read this thread last night http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...3&pagenumber=3

And I realized that my AFM spring may be weak, which is why my 911 has been running strangely. I tested the voltage output of the AFM last month, and it appeared to be fine. The voltage climbed smoothly and continuously with no drops or spikes. But to get it to idle at 14.2 AFR, I had to back out the CO adjustment screw way way out. It was running rich. I think the barn door was opening too wide for the given volume of air. I had to use the screw to lean it out. I stopped counting at 9 turns. I understand 1.5 to 3 turns is normal.

So, today I bought a used AFM. Anyone know how to re-set the spring (add tension)? I won't mind experimenting on it once I have a good one on hand. I haven't opened the stock AFM yet, and it has never been opened. I imagine you take a hacksaw or dremel to it?

Amber Gramps

rusnak, is nothing sacred to you? Hacksaw or dremel? I wouldn't , well, OK I used a dremel to get my cat off. Umm, anyway...Ya, my screw has never been turned on my AFM and the door seemed to be stiff on mine. Someone smarter will chime in.

rusnak

DB, I tried to be gentle on it but that plastic is thick and no way no how is that glue ever going to come off.

I hope you and your daughter are doing ok and enjoying some peace and quiet.

rberry951

You talkin bout this black plastic cover?

Amber Gramps

How about a gentle scoring with a razor blade around and around again till you get through the glue? good night guys.

rusnak

Yep, that's the one. How do I get the cover off? Can the spring be re-clocked, and then checked with the LM-1? I figure if it shows 14.2 AFR at 1.5-3.0 turns then I must have it right?

DRACO A5OG

Get yourself a Box Opener and a 2" metal puddy knife.

Start by cutting the silicon off as much as you can then ues the puddy knife with even but gentle force push up under the lid lip.

The Spring Tension is very critical so be certain you want to mess with it. Open both to do a side by side comparason. This is not trully accurate because my OEM and the rebuilt one I got were totally different.

I'd say 14.2 and 1.5-3 turn out should be a good setting but you should test under load to be certain.

rusnak

Thanks Draco! Your post in the thread that I linked was epic! Lots of good info.

I found another thread that warns against changing the spring tension, and I think Scarceller warns against it too. I decided to buy a used AFM. But since I have a lot of curiosity, I think I want to tinker with the old one and see if I can make it work. If so, then I'll have a good spare. If not, no huge loss.

DRACO A5OG

My Pleasure My Brother! Again can't take credit it was the 944 guy and Steve Wong that guided me. Just student sharing the love