theiceman

Sounds like it was a holiday inn express to ! fouling for sure.. I would be curious as to what the other 4 look like. Then you would know if it is a global issue or just these cylinders.

911vet

That's the problem, I can't keep it off the track and on the road long enough to figure it out! I typically burn a quart of oil in a weekend at the track.

A few weeks ago I drove 300 miles to Putnam, 3 days on the track (est 200 track miles), 300 miles back. Used about 2 qrts if I remember.

The mechanic pulled 2 plugs today (not sure why he didn't pull all 6 since 2 only tells your 30% of the story) and he said they looked great. I get the car back this weekend. I'll pull all of them.

I've heard mixed opinions on oil consumption at the track vs road. Some say it shouldn't matter. I have to believe it does. I'm running to the redline repeatedly and when not in red, I'm at least one gear lower than I would be on the road - keeping rpms very high. And the engine is running quite a bit hotter than any other time.

(before anyone asks, I'm running Brad Penn 20w-50)

g-50cab

The track tends to emphasize issues - sine my rebuild - I use very little oil - as in not enough to make a difference. I usually don't add a qt and change my oil around 1500-2000 miles - lots of track driving. Before - I would 1 Qt every 6-800 miles - at the track it went to 1 QT every 400 miles - that's when I decided to pull it apart.

5 of 6 exhaust valves had to be replaced because they were out of spec. The intake side was still good.

One was was out of spec - luckily I didn't drop it. That's why I would never shy away from buying a track car with records - typically they are maintained to a higher standard

84 cabriolet

Fuel fouled.

gsmith660

I dont think so 0 compression on a cylinder isn't caused by fouled fuel.

theiceman

no but if you don't have compresion it wont ignite .. and be fuel fouled ..

but regardless ,, sounds like you have yourself a nice little project now ...

gsmith660

Other 4 looked good although #5 only had 50 # on the compression check. I am making up a punch list to put together a solid lower end and lower compression ratio so I can make an engine that will last. I will post the results when I get the engine out after I get my shop back in a couple weeks.

gsmith660

Is he referring to fouled fuel or the plug being fuel fouled I did not know, and yes I have a neat little project and i managed to figure out where to get the components for the 3.2 short stroke so I need to decide which way to go.

theiceman

post up some pics when you get started .. i would love to see what the internals of such a low compresion engine look slike .. you figure the rings are busted up or bent valves ? I would think for the compresion to be that low something broke good

gsmith660

This was a stock compression motor probably 8.5:1 CIS pistons and yes I will post pics of the disassembly.

theiceman

I meant the 50 lbs compresion you posted . that is BAD .. not the compresion ratio..

Auto_Werks 3.6

Just for grins.... how much boost pressure were you running when it gave up?

gsmith660

The last drive I had before it gave up was a leisurely drive never more than 5 psi I didn't notice a problem until the next day I went out to go somewhere and the car started hard and when I got it started it was noisy. To answer your original question max boost was set at 7 psi (.5 bar) and it made lots of power at that. I think my problem is that the motor was more tired than I thought it was and failed I will find out soon as I decided to go ahead and drop the motor outside and pull it into the shop. I am just as curious as everybody else as to the failure. Who knows maybe I can fix it and put it back in and salvage some summer.

gsmith660

Started draining the oil really black for only a couple hundred miles but no surprises on the magnet in the crankcase. More to come.

gsmith660

Well I found this when I pulled the chain housing cover Has anybody ever heard of piston to valve contact causing the nut to back off? When I spun it upside down a bunch of gas probably a cup came out of the intake manifold. All the exhaust valves look good albeit carboned up I am trying to avoid pulling the intake as I have a real good seal on it and so far no one has recommended pulling the intake or the heads most have said set the valve timing and do a leakdown and compression check. I dont have a leakdown rig nor dose anyone in this area I guess I should make one up.