pubic safety issue: people walking up to your car window - Page 3

rusnak · 02-08-2012, 09:00 PM

Tom, I believe you are 100% correct. I already have things that produces muzzle blasts. My choice came down to a smaller caliber gun with fragmentation rounds, or a police model Taser. I decided to augment my current choices with the top of the line cop model Taser. I believe it produces a 10 second shock, so a single perp pretty much goes down, and you are correct about multiple perps. That is a gunfigt situation all the way.

Reiver · 02-08-2012, 09:11 PM

Being prepared mentally and practicing coarses of action with whatever weapons system you decide to use gives you an advantage.
Practice and talk your spouse thru dif scenarios, it may seem silly to her but micro seconds count.
You should do the same at home. Where do you 'retreat' to, what do you do when you get there. If seperated, how do I know you from a bad guy in the dartk etc.
Standard operating procedures and immediate action drills....that is what professionals practice.

Gliding_Serpent · 02-08-2012, 09:14 PM

The use of force needs to be appropriate. Tazering someone because they touched a door handle would be excessive force. Tazering someone who tried to punch you would not be excessive.

Solution: Move to Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

This has happened maybe three times in the past 6 months.

Sometimes, while parked, someone will approach my car window. The first time, it was just outside my office at night. Some vagrant looking guy started walking toward my car right after I got in. I had the window just starting to go down to let the hot air out. I see this guy walking toward me so I go "that's far enough!" and I tell him to not come any closer or he'll be hurt. So he leaves.

Second time, I was buying cigars at a liquor store in the middle of town. This was about a month ago. Same thing happens.

Last night, I was at a stoplight after the Super Bowl, headed back to the office to get some papers to work at home. A guy on a bike actually gets his hand on my door handle. I was in the 911. The light turned green just then, so I punch the gas and pop the clutch, and jerk the handle out of his hand.

I'm thinking that I might buy a taser and next time just let it rip. I have a few weapons, all of which could be considered lethal, so I think I might go for a non-lethel means of communicating.

What say you guys? When is it appropriate to taser someone? I see a pattern developing of people more brazenly approaching my car with me in it. As far as I'm concerned, I think if they keep approaching after I warn them, then it's probably a sign that they are up to no good.

rusnak · 02-08-2012, 09:59 PM

In California, yiu don't have to retreat. There just needs to be an imminent credible threat, and you may use deadly force to repell the attacker. Once repelled, you must stop. There is no obligation in,the criminal statutes to evaluate proportionality, but civil law (personal injury) is another matter. This is the consideration that I am adjusting to.

Reiver, great point about preparedness. I should mention that I bought a shop n rob franchise, so this stuff will be on my mind in about a year big time. Thank you!

Esexx · 03-09-2012, 06:33 PM

You mean like this? It is and has been very effective, but one has to be aware of the type of clothing the target is wearing. I have had to go in for a contact tase after one of the darts didnt penetrate the skin.

The civi model is just as good, however it is not shaped like a firearm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

Tom, I believe you are 100% correct. I already have things that produces muzzle blasts. My choice came down to a smaller caliber gun with fragmentation rounds, or a police model Taser. I decided to augment my current choices with the top of the line cop model Taser. I believe it produces a 10 second shock, so a single perp pretty much goes down, and you are correct about multiple perps. That is a gunfigt situation all the way.

rusnak · 03-09-2012, 06:42 PM

I think you have to detach the cartride? I dont see contacts on the firing cartridge, but I can be wrong. Supposedly the pins penetrate a few inches of clothing. The laser and leds help greatly in aiming the weapon, which is shaped a lot like a pistol actually. Same grip, and trigger so no need to retrain.

Esexx · 03-09-2012, 06:54 PM

Everything is behind the barn doors which blow open when activated. The barbs are 1" or 1.5" (I forgot) with a 5 second ride.

Even if no barbs hit, can go in for a drive stun or attach a new cartridge.

Works like a charm...BTW, I hate OC because it gets everywhere and I someone other than the suspect usually gets some of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

I think you have to detach the cartride? I dont see contacts on the firing cartridge, but I can be wrong. Supposedly the pins penetrate a few inches of clothing. The laser and leds help greatly in aiming the weapon, which is shaped a lot like a pistol actually. Same grip, and trigger so no need to retrain.

rusnak · 03-09-2012, 07:34 PM

OK, I see it now. You have the LE version. Mine's the Civilian version, which looks exactly like the X26. I don't have the Taser Cam, although I might add it. I still don't see how the contacts on the cartridge make contact. If you miss, then you have to remove the cardtridge to go in for a drive stun?

Esexx · 03-09-2012, 08:46 PM

You can stun the person either way. Either pull off the cartridge or I just leave it on and drive it in. Contact will be made by one of thise side prongs or the wires that are attached to the barb.

I have drive stuned only with the spent cartridge still on the taser and it does work.

I am required to have the cam for work, however if I had one for personal use I'd go without.

rusnak · 03-09-2012, 08:55 PM

You'd want to drive stun a fair distance from the single pin that made contact, in order to capacitate. Otherwise the guy might simply knock the taser out of your hand.

Esexx · 03-09-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusnak

You'd want to drive stun a fair distance from the single pin that made contact, in order to capacitate. Otherwise the guy might simply knock the taser out of your hand.

I have been hands on at that point. I also have other tools at my disposal and back up is usually there or there within a few seconds.

Anyways, know that if you ever had to use it that way it will work. I hope you or anyone else will never have to deploy it or another tool, but I have no choice and I am glad to have it as an option.

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02-08-2012, 09:00 PM	#31
rusnak Super User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 9,524	Tom, I believe you are 100% correct. I already have things that produces muzzle blasts. My choice came down to a smaller caliber gun with fragmentation rounds, or a police model Taser. I decided to augment my current choices with the top of the line cop model Taser. I believe it produces a 10 second shock, so a single perp pretty much goes down, and you are correct about multiple perps. That is a gunfigt situation all the way.

02-08-2012, 09:11 PM	#32
Reiver Addict Rennlist Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Wickenburg, Az Posts: 275	Being prepared mentally and practicing coarses of action with whatever weapons system you decide to use gives you an advantage. Practice and talk your spouse thru dif scenarios, it may seem silly to her but micro seconds count. You should do the same at home. Where do you 'retreat' to, what do you do when you get there. If seperated, how do I know you from a bad guy in the dartk etc. Standard operating procedures and immediate action drills....that is what professionals practice.

02-08-2012, 09:59 PM	#34
rusnak Super User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 9,524	In California, yiu don't have to retreat. There just needs to be an imminent credible threat, and you may use deadly force to repell the attacker. Once repelled, you must stop. There is no obligation in,the criminal statutes to evaluate proportionality, but civil law (personal injury) is another matter. This is the consideration that I am adjusting to. Reiver, great point about preparedness. I should mention that I bought a shop n rob franchise, so this stuff will be on my mind in about a year big time. Thank you!

03-09-2012, 06:42 PM	#36
rusnak Super User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 9,524	I think you have to detach the cartride? I dont see contacts on the firing cartridge, but I can be wrong. Supposedly the pins penetrate a few inches of clothing. The laser and leds help greatly in aiming the weapon, which is shaped a lot like a pistol actually. Same grip, and trigger so no need to retrain.

03-09-2012, 08:46 PM	#39
Esexx User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: LA Area, California Posts: 28	You can stun the person either way. Either pull off the cartridge or I just leave it on and drive it in. Contact will be made by one of thise side prongs or the wires that are attached to the barb. I have drive stuned only with the spent cartridge still on the taser and it does work. I am required to have the cam for work, however if I had one for personal use I'd go without.

03-09-2012, 08:55 PM	#40
rusnak Super User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 9,524	You'd want to drive stun a fair distance from the single pin that made contact, in order to capacitate. Otherwise the guy might simply knock the taser out of your hand.