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1973 911T Find and Rescue

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Old 12-08-2013, 09:24 PM
  #31  
Wachuko
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Originally Posted by Constantine
Pulled the plugs and found them a bit oily and old looking, but nothing odd.

Tried turning the engine by putting it in gear and turning the rear wheels forward. The wheels turn, the engine doesn't. Tried moving the gear selector into different gears as well as actuating the clutch pedal, nothing changes.

Moved the alternator fan by hand and the belt just slips.

Anything obvious we're missing?
Did you do that with or without the spark plugs in place?? must turn without the spark plugs in place to avoid the compression working against you... might want to pour some oil on each spark plug hole as well to help lubricate that first start...
Old 12-08-2013, 11:14 PM
  #32  
Black Sea RD
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Hi Jaime,

Spark plug were out and still are.

It is as if the transmission/clutch are not engaged to the engine. Wheels turn without any resistance and the engine does not move.

Probable clutch problem?
Old 12-09-2013, 04:17 PM
  #33  
greg1990964
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My 73 t from Police auction for $2,200. San Deigo car. Just put plug wires back in and changed oil.
Old 12-09-2013, 04:18 PM
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1973
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:32 PM
  #35  
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$2200, that's the deal of the century.
Old 12-09-2013, 06:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Constantine
Hi Jaime,

Spark plug were out and still are.

It is as if the transmission/clutch are not engaged to the engine. Wheels turn without any resistance and the engine does not move.

Probable clutch problem?
Either that or the tranny is stuck in neutral... could be the shift linkage... could be a lot of things.

Either way, I'd just yank the engine.... it's not that big a job... then you can really start carefully dissecting what you have...

I am a mechanical knucklehead, but I have LOTS of experience writing checks on these cars...

IMHO, if this car wasn't running like a top when you bought it, and you think you are going to put new plugs and gas in this car a fire it up, you're probably fooling yourself....

At some point this motor has to come apart, so the sooner the better....

If you are planning on restoring this car and keeping it, you'll want to do that... if you are planning to flip it to a long-term collector, they will insist on that.

Trying to force-start an old motor like this is likely to do more harm than good... you could have busted rings, the timing chains could be messed up, broken head studs, broken valve springs... the fuel injection pump may need to be rebuilt... lots of critical stuff.

There's usually a good reason why these old cars get parked.

You might just get it running, and it might just start tearing itself apart... an ounce of prevention vs a pound of cure.

Like I said, this is potentially a very valuable car, and I'd spend some time and money to do your due diligence before something really expensive breaks.

Good luck
Old 12-09-2013, 09:31 PM
  #37  
Black Sea RD
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Think the source of the current problem is the one working on it at the moment, me.

In discussing this dilemma with a colleague at work, he explained why my initial attempts to turn the engine by hand failed. You see, I forgot about this invention they put in transmissions called a "differential." The differential, or "diff" for those in the know, allows the rear wheels to turn at different (hence the name) speeds when needed, like around turns.

When the car is suspended and only one wheel is turned, the differential turns the other wheel the opposite way. And the engine crankshaft stays happily unmolested from all this turning.

Cool what things you forget in the haze of a long day wrenching.

So will try a different approach to turning the engine carefully by hand to see if it will. Then we'll step back and think about our next step. There is a lot of truth to what JCP911S said above.

Cheers,

Last edited by Black Sea RD; 12-09-2013 at 10:16 PM.
Old 12-09-2013, 10:50 PM
  #38  
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Constantine, put a socket and a long handled ratchet on the fan pulley and turn it clockwise. If the fan belt spins on the pulley and doesn't turn the crank, then squeeze the fan belt with one hand while you crank on the ratchet with the other hand. This is the method we all use when doing a valve adjustment. With the plugs out it should turn without too much effort with an 18" ratchet. The tranny should be in neutral or the wheels need to be off the ground with the parking brake off.

As you can see in the photo below there is room to squeeze the belt just below the pulley.
Old 12-09-2013, 11:17 PM
  #39  
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Thanks Amber Lamps, we'll try that first.

By the way, absolutely beautiful 911 and engine!

Best,
Old 12-10-2013, 01:17 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Constantine
Thanks Amber Lamps, we'll try that first.

By the way, absolutely beautiful 911 and engine!

Best,
Yes, very beautiful. I can only hope that mine will look so good someday as that one isn't mine.

Oh, one other thing while we are at it. Find some Marvel Mistery Oil. Put a couple drops into each cylinder while your plugs are out. I've had it work miracles for me over the years. I don't know how or why, it just works.

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/videos/

Old 12-11-2013, 07:10 PM
  #41  
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Just a quick update, the engine moves freely using the technique mentioned by Amber Lamps and others on another forum.

No binding or unusual noises coming from the engine after many turns of the engine.

Now to ponder the next step.

Cheers,
Old 12-18-2013, 08:55 AM
  #42  
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This is great, sub'd!
Old 12-24-2013, 10:08 PM
  #43  
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Porsche COA came in today, Christmas eve day, what a present!

Numbers confirmed for both the engine and transmission, so this is a numbers matching 1973 911T.

A bit puzzled as to the "rear spoiler" since the non-spoilered rear deck lid looks original to the car and what "Option Group G64" means.

Obligatory shot of the COA:
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Old 12-25-2013, 01:48 AM
  #44  
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was this the car in florida on ebay?
Old 12-25-2013, 06:08 AM
  #45  
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Don't believe so but don't know for sure.

Ebay was not how it was found by us.


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