Costs Of Ownership Turbo vs. NA
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Costs Of Ownership Turbo vs. NA
I've heard that those beautiful machines are not only powerful, but need more maintenance then their NA sisters.
What are some of your experiences out there?
Also, at $27, 500 would a 1989 Turbo with 95k miles be considered a good price? Was dark green ever a factory color?
What are some of your experiences out there?
Also, at $27, 500 would a 1989 Turbo with 95k miles be considered a good price? Was dark green ever a factory color?
#2
Three Wheelin'
$27.5k for an 89 turbo is a very good price as long as the car is good condition mechanically and cosmetically. You get the last of the classic 911 bodies and the 5 speed G50 tranny. At first, I didn't think there was a big difference between the 4 spd and 5 spd trannys. However, after driving a 5 spd, there is a big difference! The hydraulic clutch is very nice for traffic and the shifting is more precise and smooth. The 4spd on the other hand is more of a beast and can be tiring to drive in stop and go traffic. The 5 spd also has better gearing for around town driving.
Color code 22E, Forest Green Metallic is an optional color for 1989.
AFAIK, the differences in maintenance isn't a big deal. NA and turbo both need regular oil changes and valve adjustments. However, if the turbo needs replacement or a rebuild it can be a costly proposition. The big problem I see with turbo ownership is the slippery slope. Sooner or later you will want more power and that cost money, lots of it. I had a concours 79 turbo that was one of the last made for the US and I didn't want to mess with it, but also yearned for more power. I thought about this mod and that mod and tried to keep it reversible. It was a good thing I didn't follow through as an 86 turbo with a 3.4 and lots of goodies popped up at a very good price! I bought that and gave her a lot of TLC ad she is a fantastic car. I didn't spent the money to mod the car as the previous owner spent all that. I just reaped the benefits of his enthusiasm. A few months later, I sold the 79 as I rarely drove it and was too paranoid about something happening to it. 4 days after the sale, I picked up a pristine 91 turbo with 19k on it. Here we go again! lol
Before you purchase, get a thorough PPI on the car.
Color code 22E, Forest Green Metallic is an optional color for 1989.
AFAIK, the differences in maintenance isn't a big deal. NA and turbo both need regular oil changes and valve adjustments. However, if the turbo needs replacement or a rebuild it can be a costly proposition. The big problem I see with turbo ownership is the slippery slope. Sooner or later you will want more power and that cost money, lots of it. I had a concours 79 turbo that was one of the last made for the US and I didn't want to mess with it, but also yearned for more power. I thought about this mod and that mod and tried to keep it reversible. It was a good thing I didn't follow through as an 86 turbo with a 3.4 and lots of goodies popped up at a very good price! I bought that and gave her a lot of TLC ad she is a fantastic car. I didn't spent the money to mod the car as the previous owner spent all that. I just reaped the benefits of his enthusiasm. A few months later, I sold the 79 as I rarely drove it and was too paranoid about something happening to it. 4 days after the sale, I picked up a pristine 91 turbo with 19k on it. Here we go again! lol
Before you purchase, get a thorough PPI on the car.
#3
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If you don't do your own work, service on a Turbo will be more costly than a N/A car for the simple fact that there's more stuff to take off of the Turbo engine to work on it.
As WPOZZZ said, the real expense is in performance enhancements ( ask Schnell about that ).
As WPOZZZ said, the real expense is in performance enhancements ( ask Schnell about that ).
#5
That price sounds good even in today's market so you have to wonder ahead of time what could potentially be wrong with the car.
I would check the car out carefully.
If it is at a dealership, than they are simply trying to move the car fast.
As far as turbo versus normally aspirated, you will find the carrera 3.2 to be your best value and reliability and whatnot but with a 1989 930 5 speed you are looking at the creme de la creme of the early 930s so it is definitely a bragging rights car.
I would check the car out carefully.
If it is at a dealership, than they are simply trying to move the car fast.
As far as turbo versus normally aspirated, you will find the carrera 3.2 to be your best value and reliability and whatnot but with a 1989 930 5 speed you are looking at the creme de la creme of the early 930s so it is definitely a bragging rights car.
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Thanks for the replies, gents. The forest green is pretty cool actually. Nice to know it's factory then. If I were to pursue this, a PPI would be a must, especially since it's a turbo.
With the turbo and intercooler stuffed in the engine bay, seems mechanics charge more for these. What's the price of a valve adjustment and oil change on average. For the NA Carrera's, my P mech charges ~$100 for the oil change.
With the turbo and intercooler stuffed in the engine bay, seems mechanics charge more for these. What's the price of a valve adjustment and oil change on average. For the NA Carrera's, my P mech charges ~$100 for the oil change.
Last edited by holy911; 11-16-2008 at 07:31 PM.
#7
Three Wheelin'
$27,500 sounds cheap! Miles are a little high but if its been well taken care of, the PPI checks out well, and its clean, you may be getting a great deal.
FWIW I just bought my '89 Turbo (for quite a bit more than $27,500) and couldn't be happier. I was able to pull away from a 997 GT3 on the track this weekend, although I certainly wouldn't expect that to happen with a more experienced driver. Its quite an experience to drive one of these cars fast (maybe not one that just anyone would relish). So far my '88 Carrera has been more expensive to own (still not much $) but, as with any 20 year old car, that can always change quickly.
FWIW I just bought my '89 Turbo (for quite a bit more than $27,500) and couldn't be happier. I was able to pull away from a 997 GT3 on the track this weekend, although I certainly wouldn't expect that to happen with a more experienced driver. Its quite an experience to drive one of these cars fast (maybe not one that just anyone would relish). So far my '88 Carrera has been more expensive to own (still not much $) but, as with any 20 year old car, that can always change quickly.
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This would be my first P car. Turbo is not the first on my list, but if it checks out, price is right, I'll take it.
The other thing with this car is it needs some body work. There is some creasing on the rear quarter panel right above the wheel well, about a 5"x2" area, and the bumper. I'm guessing at least $2k+ for labor and paint matching. Sound right?
The other thing with this car is it needs some body work. There is some creasing on the rear quarter panel right above the wheel well, about a 5"x2" area, and the bumper. I'm guessing at least $2k+ for labor and paint matching. Sound right?
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This one is beyond dent removal since the sheet metal is actually creased over on itself. Paintless can only remove dents that are smooth with no creases or folds. This one's going to require panel removal, some craftsmanship to smooth it out, then a repaint. The repaint is the tough one. Trying to color match a 20 y/o paintjob.
#11
Well no sense in buying a car with damage unless it is truly superficial.
That sounds like the car was hit from behind and the bumper pushed in, but I am simply guessing.
That is your reason that the price is good. You can check under the bumper and look at the bumper shock absorber mounts, which are metal pieces welded to the rear of the car on each side. If one of those shock mounts has been heat treated and bent back into place...you have a rear collision.
I would PPI the heck out of that rear bumper area. Even check the car frame to see if it is straight.
If you want a no B.S. PPI, than check the rear of the car completely and then check the frame straightness and then check the engine compression. Most of the other stuff they PPI is superficial compared to these concerns.
That sounds like the car was hit from behind and the bumper pushed in, but I am simply guessing.
That is your reason that the price is good. You can check under the bumper and look at the bumper shock absorber mounts, which are metal pieces welded to the rear of the car on each side. If one of those shock mounts has been heat treated and bent back into place...you have a rear collision.
I would PPI the heck out of that rear bumper area. Even check the car frame to see if it is straight.
If you want a no B.S. PPI, than check the rear of the car completely and then check the frame straightness and then check the engine compression. Most of the other stuff they PPI is superficial compared to these concerns.
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After my mech saw some pictures, he's thinking it needs the quarter panel replaced.
Now that really changes the whole picture. This would definitely be more than the $2k the seller said they were quoted for the "minor crease." Oh, and of course they didn't have any written quotes for said estimates. Right!
How much to replace quarter panels on these widebodies?
Now that really changes the whole picture. This would definitely be more than the $2k the seller said they were quoted for the "minor crease." Oh, and of course they didn't have any written quotes for said estimates. Right!
How much to replace quarter panels on these widebodies?
#13
Like DDDD wrote, $27.5K seems a bit on the low side for an '89 930. Because these were the last year made, and have the 5-speed box (with a different clutch), they tend to command slightly higher prices than all the other years of 930s. But your PPI should show if there's anything seriously wrong with the motor. Perhaps the cost deduction is due to just the body damage? What other big item maintenance things have been done, recently? Clutch? Transmission? Any engine work?
Overall, I don't think cost of ownership of a 930 is that much worse than a normally-aspirated 911. Obviously, the 930 will cost a bit more. Things wear out faster, due to the increased heat and higher HP. But if you can afford the maintenance on a 20-30 year-old 911, you can afford the maintenance on a 20-30 year-old 930.
OK, I take that back, slightly. A top-end rebuild on a 911 may run you, what, $6K on up? A rebuild of a 930 may be double that?
Overall, I don't think cost of ownership of a 930 is that much worse than a normally-aspirated 911. Obviously, the 930 will cost a bit more. Things wear out faster, due to the increased heat and higher HP. But if you can afford the maintenance on a 20-30 year-old 911, you can afford the maintenance on a 20-30 year-old 930.
OK, I take that back, slightly. A top-end rebuild on a 911 may run you, what, $6K on up? A rebuild of a 930 may be double that?
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Cost of ownership for a stock 930 is probably not much more than a stock 911. However, cost of modifying a 930 can easily cost more than the purchase price of a good 911.