chain box leaks
11-25-2008, 03:23 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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chain box leaks
Any one know how to fix the oil leaks on the chain box permanently? As most of you know after about 15 k miles the drivers side chain box developes an oil leak due to the heat from the turbo near by. This pretty much means every time it's due for a valve adjustment it needs to come out anyways. SO while it's coming out out to fix that and adjust the valves. I'm replacing the clutch which only lasted about a year. Aslo thinking about replacing the oil supply hose to the turbo with braided steel it weeps some at the hose end next to the turbo.
11-26-2008, 10:49 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Well so far all of the intake manifold nuts were loose about 1/2 to 1 full turn. So the stock nuts will be replaced by the nylock nuts they supply for the valve covers. Don't have it out yet just unhooked all the stuff on the top. started getting dark so tomorrow morning it will be the stuff on the bottom then maybe I'll pull it out depending on when i need to start cooking. Daughter is home from UF So i have to cook a turkey tomorrow.
11-26-2008, 11:03 PM
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My intake nuts seem to always be loose. When I rebuilt the engine, I used copper jam nuts that will not loosen ( I hope).
BTW, did you use any sealer like three bond on the gaskets when you installed the chain covers?
BTW, did you use any sealer like three bond on the gaskets when you installed the chain covers?
11-26-2008, 11:09 PM
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Burning Brakes
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yes I used that curel T that Bruce Andersons book suggested. I really dont want to goop everything up with silicone if I can help it. is three bond easy to use? oh one more thing there were cracks inthe AC hose going to the condenser in the whale tail. So it looks like the first while your in there job will be new barrier hose for the ac.
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11-30-2008, 04:31 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Clutch is out and it's toast. It's down to the rivets and there are grooves and cracks in the flywheel. So rather than cutting it i'm replacing it.
11-30-2008, 07:07 PM
#10
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We coated (me and A930Rocket) both sides of the paper gaskets that go between the chain housing and the cam tower with CurilT. Same fo the gasket that goes between the chain housing and the case.
We also used a thin layer of curil T on the paper gaskets for the chain housing covers.
You DON'T want to use 3Bond on anything that you'll potentially be taking apart (like the chain housings) because it is a BEAR to clean up. The only place we used 3bond was between the cam towers and the heads.
We also used a thin layer of curil T on the paper gaskets for the chain housing covers.
You DON'T want to use 3Bond on anything that you'll potentially be taking apart (like the chain housings) because it is a BEAR to clean up. The only place we used 3bond was between the cam towers and the heads.
11-30-2008, 08:15 PM
#11
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I used a thin layer of Hylomar on the paper gaskets that seal the chain case to the engine case, cam thrust plate to cam tower, and the chain case covers.
It's very similar to curil T and blue in color.
Also smeared a little hylomar on the thrust plate silicone 0-ring and the small red silicone o-ring that seals the oil fed chain tensioner through the chain case cover.
The hylomar acts as a lubricant for the o-rings as they slide into place as you assemble the chain cases if nothing else. It sure can't hurt as far as sealing against oil leaks.
Lastly, I ground off the old epoxy blobs on the backside of the chain case, and redid those with slow hardening JB weld epoxy. They are there to seal against oil leaks at those spots.
Don't make the epoxy blobs real thick or they will but up against the cylinder head fins as you install the chain case and keep it from seating against the engine case evenly and put the chain tensioners and idler sprockets out of alighnment with the intermediate shaft sprocket, cam sprocket, and chain.
Hylomar never dries, ignores gasoline, and cleans up real easy with laquer thinner on a rag.
I have no oil leaks in my chain cases.
It's very similar to curil T and blue in color.
Also smeared a little hylomar on the thrust plate silicone 0-ring and the small red silicone o-ring that seals the oil fed chain tensioner through the chain case cover.
The hylomar acts as a lubricant for the o-rings as they slide into place as you assemble the chain cases if nothing else. It sure can't hurt as far as sealing against oil leaks.
Lastly, I ground off the old epoxy blobs on the backside of the chain case, and redid those with slow hardening JB weld epoxy. They are there to seal against oil leaks at those spots.
Don't make the epoxy blobs real thick or they will but up against the cylinder head fins as you install the chain case and keep it from seating against the engine case evenly and put the chain tensioners and idler sprockets out of alighnment with the intermediate shaft sprocket, cam sprocket, and chain.
Hylomar never dries, ignores gasoline, and cleans up real easy with laquer thinner on a rag.
I have no oil leaks in my chain cases.
12-01-2008, 10:33 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
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yes i know but if it doesnt leak after 15k miles i shouldnt have to pull this out once a year. Thats assuming I can learn to drive and make this next clutch last more than a year.