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UPDATE: Why can I drop my engine faster than I can replace the alternator?

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Old 12-27-2008, 05:22 PM
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A930Rocket
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Default UPDATE: Why can I drop my engine faster than I can replace the alternator?

The car was dieing on me and I'm only getting about 11 volts at the battery, so I swap out alternators yesterday. Not my first time, but I had forgotten what a pain in the *** it was. Why can I drop the engine faster?

Anyway, I figure I'm good to go and take her for a spin. Get a mile from the house and it starts to sputter, then slowly die on me. She starts right back up and I bring her home.

Just to make sure everyone knows I'm having a problem, it starts to do a few small backfires, then a big one. Everyone looks at me like I'm the village idiot. Well, I felt like one.

I checked the fuel pump relays and they were cool, as was the fuse. Maybe swap out my MSD for the stock box to eliminate that. Next I'll check voltage at the battery (its new), then start looking at grounds and follow the pos lug off the alternator to see where it goes and check voltage off that. Anybody know where it goes to?

I hate electrical problems...

Last edited by A930Rocket; 12-28-2008 at 03:25 PM.
Old 12-27-2008, 07:53 PM
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DonE
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I feel your pain.

The big red wire from the ALT goes to the starter, then to the battery.
Old 12-27-2008, 08:12 PM
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senna21
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Does the alternator have a voltage regulator inside it or is the VR separate? I used to have a 240Z and the VR was separate. Swapped out the alternator only to have the same problem, and a fried new alternator.
Old 12-27-2008, 08:32 PM
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g935cab
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if you havent already try the lee rice fuel pump rewire and the yellow relay in the engine compartment our suspect for back fires , good luck ~G
Old 12-27-2008, 08:56 PM
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A930Rocket
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Thanks Don.

Senna, The later car use an internal VR. I think they switched over in the early 80's.

g935cab, I've done the Lee Rice trick and have removed the "the moon must align with Mars" stuff in back by grounding the fuel pump relays up front to an impact switch. I'll check it, but the switch rarely goes bad.
Old 12-27-2008, 10:00 PM
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kens911
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My alternator did exactly what you described when it died. I was actually on my way home from vertex with a new alternator. I made it half way home then had to get it towed. That was last year right after I got it running.
Old 12-27-2008, 10:43 PM
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A930Rocket
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Funny you mention that. I don't think I've ever done engine major work with out the alternator dieing within months. If I had the money I would have sprung for a new one, but I got a rebuilt one from Vertex.

Originally Posted by kens911
My alternator did exactly what you described when it died. I was actually on my way home from vertex with a new alternator. I made it half way home then had to get it towed. That was last year right after I got it running.
Old 12-28-2008, 10:54 AM
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slownrusty
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I'm with you Rocket...I could not believe how long it took me to change my alterntator last summer. I kept saying man I could pull the motor in the same time...LOL

Good luck!
Yasin
Old 12-28-2008, 03:24 PM
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UPDATE

I jacked the car up just now and took a look at the starter leads. The nut had backed off slightly and the leads were slightly loose. Cleaned them up as well as the trans to body ground. Replaced all nuts with new jamb nuts. One hour max time working. I now I have 13.8 volts at the battery and cut off switch. Need to take it for a spin, but I'm sure I've fixed it...

Moral of the story: Check your wiring first before you spend the money and time!
Old 12-28-2008, 11:11 PM
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kens911
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Speaking of that I have mine running now but no tach signal
Old 12-29-2008, 11:45 AM
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Did it happen after you replaced the alternator? Have you checked the wiring at the CDI box? At the tach? Can you jump a wire from the CDI output to the tach and see if it works?

Originally Posted by kens911
Speaking of that I have mine running now but no tach signal
Old 12-29-2008, 04:24 PM
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kens911
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no it happened when I put the engine back in yesterday. I think something isnt hooked up It was dark when I was connecting everything. I took it fo a test drive about 10 pm. 2 am I woke up and realized i hadnt torqued the lug nuts, So I got up and got the torque wrench out and put it by the front door So wouldnt drive off to work in it.
Old 12-29-2008, 08:45 PM
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DonE
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Originally Posted by A930Rocket
UPDATE

I jacked the car up just now and took a look at the starter leads. The nut had backed off slightly and the leads were slightly loose. Cleaned them up as well as the trans to body ground. Replaced all nuts with new jamb nuts. One hour max time working. I now I have 13.8 volts at the battery and cut off switch. Need to take it for a spin, but I'm sure I've fixed it...

Moral of the story: Check your wiring first before you spend the money and time!
I would add just a bit more to your moral: look for the simplest solution first. Congrats on finding the problem. I like success stories....
Old 12-29-2008, 08:48 PM
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A930Rocket
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I did that one time 20 years ago on a Mustang. After some work on it, I drove the car for a test spin in the neighborhood and kept hearing a thunking noise. Drove it back home, checked the lug nuts and I had forgotten to tighten one, much less get the lug nuts threaded all the way on there.

Now I go around the car twice with the torque wrench to be sure.
Old 12-29-2008, 08:50 PM
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A930Rocket
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Thanks Don. The worst part is I put off doing this for months due to time and money. Could have it fixed and driving it a long time ago.

Originally Posted by DonE
I would add just a bit more to your moral: look for the simplest solution first. Congrats on finding the problem. I like success stories....


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