The $100.00 930 Engine/trans. removal!!
#1
Intermediate
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nearby New Orleans
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The $100.00 930 Engine/trans. removal!!
How can you remove a 930 engine for less than $100.00? Here's how?
1) While it can be done by one person, it is best to have two. I hired my 16 year old son to help me and paid him roughly $50.00 for his 3.5 hours help;
2) The other $50.00 was spent on building an engine dolly which is pictured in the attachments;
3) The side of the dolly which has just the angle iron, allows you to slide the dolly underneath the car and then slide the jack in underneath the angle iron
to jack up the plywood platform;
4) The front tires need to be jacked up about 4 inches so that the chin spoiler does not bottom out on the concrete when jacking up the rear;
5) Be sure and mark the position of the clutch fork shaft and the arm.
1) While it can be done by one person, it is best to have two. I hired my 16 year old son to help me and paid him roughly $50.00 for his 3.5 hours help;
2) The other $50.00 was spent on building an engine dolly which is pictured in the attachments;
3) The side of the dolly which has just the angle iron, allows you to slide the dolly underneath the car and then slide the jack in underneath the angle iron
to jack up the plywood platform;
4) The front tires need to be jacked up about 4 inches so that the chin spoiler does not bottom out on the concrete when jacking up the rear;
5) Be sure and mark the position of the clutch fork shaft and the arm.
#4
Burning Brakes
Couple of jacks, a dolly, and couple of short 2x6s have served well over the years. Of course I'm both spoiled and faster when furnished with the use of a lift!
#5
Burning Brakes
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Location: Central Washington State
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Looks good! There are so many ways to skin this cat. I use my motorcycle lift (for my 700+ pound Harley) with plywood base, and used two transmission scissor jacks...one for each rear wheel, to lift the rear of the car high enough to scoot the engine out (gotta make sure first to take the weight off the wheels by lifting the body via the engine, before puting the jacks under the wheels 'cause they can't handle the full weight of the car w/engine). And for sure, raise the front end 4 to 6 inches and....and....most important....chock that front end so it doesn't move! BTDT when the car rolled forward off the front blocks (nice little rolly wheels on the scissor jacks under the rears helped the rolling) and the only thing stopping it was the garage door (can you say door dent?). A one man job, and safe if you're not stupid like I was the first time.
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Well, After installing a Fabspeed longneck intercooler and a 1.0 bar spring, the clutch began slipping. Rather tan to let it get worse, I parked the car and started the replacement process. Upon separating
the pressure plate, I see where the clutch disc had been replaced by prior owner, but the pressure plate and bearing were the originals. I've ordered new from Kennedy Engineering. While the transmission is out, I am attempting to change the syncros, etc...I'll update with pictures of the dissasembly and progress.
I also found hairline cracks on the flywheel surface..it too gets replaced...
the pressure plate, I see where the clutch disc had been replaced by prior owner, but the pressure plate and bearing were the originals. I've ordered new from Kennedy Engineering. While the transmission is out, I am attempting to change the syncros, etc...I'll update with pictures of the dissasembly and progress.
I also found hairline cracks on the flywheel surface..it too gets replaced...