89 S2: Jammed ignition cylinder
12-19-2018, 11:03 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh, PS: Yes, I plan to drill the tumblers out once the housing is removed and I can put it in a drill press. Also, I plan to disable the column lock "feature" while I'm in there.
12-19-2018, 11:30 PM
#17
I had thought of that and I do have a slide hammer with a large slide on it, but I'm worried I might either damage the housing or worse, the dash. Unless someone's already tried that and knows the result I don't think I'll try it.
So far there are two votes for drilling out the shear bolts and one video from Germany. I've torn it down to the point in that video where drilling is the next step and so far I've only had a minor casualty; one of the plastic switch retaining clips on the back of a dash trim piece broke while I was removing the switch. I think I can fix it with JB Weld.
I still need some advice. I can't find a center punch or a drill bit that will make a dent in those bolts. Finding a 6" carbide bit for steel seems difficult, haven't seen anything carbide tipped but masonry bits. I did find a carbide tipped center punch but they're sort of expensive.
What punches/drills did you folks use for the job?
Thanks,
12-20-2018, 12:17 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So no leads on the appropriate punch and drill for those verdamnt bolts?
12-20-2018, 01:24 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
I had thought of that and I do have a slide hammer with a large slide on it, but I'm worried I might either damage the housing or worse, the dash. Unless someone's already tried that and knows the result I don't think I'll try it.
So far there are two votes for drilling out the shear bolts and one video from Germany. I've torn it down to the point in that video where drilling is the next step and so far I've only had a minor casualty; one of the plastic switch retaining clips on the back of a dash trim piece broke while I was removing the switch. I think I can fix it with JB Weld.
I still need some advice. I can't find a center punch or a drill bit that will make a dent in those bolts. Finding a 6" carbide bit for steel seems difficult, haven't seen anything carbide tipped but masonry bits. I did find a carbide tipped center punch but they're sort of expensive.
What punches/drills did you folks use for the job?
Thanks,
12-20-2018, 02:44 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Use a little smaller drill bit. I removed mine when I was building the racecar, It really was no big deal, Just Sharpen the Bit on a grinder. Drill from the bottom up and do not drill fast... SLOW, the drill bit will eventually catch and spin the bolt out.. this is what mine looked like.. its ez then I cut the steering lock off with a cutoff wheel and re-installed..
Thanks for the help,
12-20-2018, 03:13 PM
#22
I've been using a 1/4" (6mm) regular black oxide bit in a variable speed cordless drill at the lowest speed and haven't gotten it to bite yet, so I was thinking tungsten carbide but can't find them for anything but concrete (the big spade tip bits), so now I'm looking at tungsten carbide dremel bits (sort of like the die grinder idea). Should all be here tomorrow.
Thanks for the help,
Thanks for the help,
12-21-2018, 01:43 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That picture of the bolt you posted looks a lot like a trophy for some reason GPA951s, is there a certain amount of quiet triumph in it? I think I may take a picture of mine and frame it for the shop when I get the sucker out.
12-21-2018, 11:33 AM
#24
Three Wheelin'
I'm trying the dremel + tungsten carbide cutting head next. I got messed up by Amazon so I'm getting the dremel replacement tomorrow but not the bits! They skunked me on that one; not only did I buy a second dremel (the other's up north), paid expedited shipping to get it here tomorrow, the bits won't show up until I'm back up north for the holidays! Sometimes I like Amazon, other times I hate them. Tomorrow I'll scour Paso for a retailer that carries carbide bits. The joys of small town living...
That picture of the bolt you posted looks a lot like a trophy for some reason GPA951s, is there a certain amount of quiet triumph in it? I think I may take a picture of mine and frame it for the shop when I get the sucker out.
That picture of the bolt you posted looks a lot like a trophy for some reason GPA951s, is there a certain amount of quiet triumph in it? I think I may take a picture of mine and frame it for the shop when I get the sucker out.
12-21-2018, 12:10 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No lol at the time I time I had asked someone about it. It came out so ez that I had to take a pic of it. If I recall when I ground (sharpened) the drill bit I made the relief very shallow so the bit wasn't pointy and it spun itself out almost instantly. I used a regular old high speed steel bit.
12-21-2018, 12:28 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
If you used the bit that came with an extractor set..typically they are left hand bits... In my Mac set they are. You need the regular bit and it turns the bolts the proper way ( because you going at it from the thread side). If all else fails grind two flat spots on the dome part and try vice grips. If that doesn't work grab a small chisel ..... If you can get it to turn even a quarter turn is should spin out with your fingers then.... If you think this is a challenge. Wait till you have to take the airbag sensors out of one of these cars ....totally tamper proof. Chisel method only gets em out...
12-21-2018, 01:00 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Maybe I'll take a picture in a few minutes. Mine looks just like the one in the video? The hole it's recessed in is maybe 8-10 mm in diameter and I'd need to take the seat out to really look at it directly. Right now I'm doing everything by touch, but I'm using a probe because my fingers are too big to fit in the recess.
12-21-2018, 01:26 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hard to tell, that looks like an "after" shot. The housing itself looks about the same but the bolts in the picture are sticking out below the cast well. Mine has the stock bolts and the heads aren't exposed at all, they're recessed into the housing.
12-21-2018, 02:05 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Yes, that's because those are Allen heads I put in after I cut the steering lock pin off. Its a "strap" in top. The bolts in the pic are installed the same way the factory pins are. So you should drill from the top down with a right hand bit. If you don't have the dome type heads on the opposite end and you say its recessed then you have a natural guide for your bit. You have to use a left hand bit then if you're drilling up from the head side. Then its just a matter of having a sharp bit. I do not believe these pins are hardened.