89 S2: Jammed ignition cylinder
#1
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89 S2: Jammed ignition cylinder
Today while returning from the second drive in my 1989 S2 I stopped at the corner store to pick up some ice on my way back from the coast. When I got back to the car I hastily dropped the bag of ice in the passenger footwell, reached for my keys, and stuck the key for my 2000 Dodge Durango in the ignition. It was 110 degrees this afternoon. I was rushed.
So of course the key jammed and I didn't even notice the problem at first since the key sticks all the time. I pulled it out, looked at it (yep looked right at it) turned it over and stuck it in again, which got it pretty badly stuck in the cylinder. After jiggering it around I managed to get it back out, at which point I discovered my mistake.
When I put the right key in the ignition cylinder, it wouldn't turn. The wheel wasn't locked, but the key doesn't work anymore. I figure I screwed up the lock tumbers or whatever you call them and I'm going to need to replace the cylinder.
All the instructions I can find are for replacing the ignition switch, which is probably fine but requires me to disassemble the console. Is there an easy way to just replace the cylinder? I've read Clark's Garage and also watched the youtube video on repairing the column lock on an S2, neither of which address replacing the lock cylinder.
Looking for pointers,
So of course the key jammed and I didn't even notice the problem at first since the key sticks all the time. I pulled it out, looked at it (yep looked right at it) turned it over and stuck it in again, which got it pretty badly stuck in the cylinder. After jiggering it around I managed to get it back out, at which point I discovered my mistake.
When I put the right key in the ignition cylinder, it wouldn't turn. The wheel wasn't locked, but the key doesn't work anymore. I figure I screwed up the lock tumbers or whatever you call them and I'm going to need to replace the cylinder.
All the instructions I can find are for replacing the ignition switch, which is probably fine but requires me to disassemble the console. Is there an easy way to just replace the cylinder? I've read Clark's Garage and also watched the youtube video on repairing the column lock on an S2, neither of which address replacing the lock cylinder.
Looking for pointers,
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 07-25-2018 at 10:45 PM.
#2
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If you google "porsche 944 rekey ignition", the first result should lead to a post by ideola on another board.
The last post in the thread mentions cutting the hole with a dremel with everything in the car. Now, since your lock is messed up I'm not sure you're going to be able to remove the cylinder, but good luck.
The last post in the thread mentions cutting the hole with a dremel with everything in the car. Now, since your lock is messed up I'm not sure you're going to be able to remove the cylinder, but good luck.
#3
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If you google "porsche 944 rekey ignition", the first result should lead to a post by ideola on another board.
The last post in the thread mentions cutting the hole with a dremel with everything in the car. Now, since your lock is messed up I'm not sure you're going to be able to remove the cylinder, but good luck.
The last post in the thread mentions cutting the hole with a dremel with everything in the car. Now, since your lock is messed up I'm not sure you're going to be able to remove the cylinder, but good luck.
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out,
#4
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Kurt -
Yes, it was the Pelican thread I read from Ideola and it's step 14 that's the kicker; it says you MUST turn the key in the ignition to retract a pin that holds the cylinder in place.
That's what I can't do. So there must be a way to get that darned cylinder out if it jams? Or do I have to scrap the car? (just kidding).
Actually, I would consider getting rid of the key, installing an FIA compliant kill switch somewhere and putting in a pushbutton start. Anyone done that?
Yes, it was the Pelican thread I read from Ideola and it's step 14 that's the kicker; it says you MUST turn the key in the ignition to retract a pin that holds the cylinder in place.
That's what I can't do. So there must be a way to get that darned cylinder out if it jams? Or do I have to scrap the car? (just kidding).
Actually, I would consider getting rid of the key, installing an FIA compliant kill switch somewhere and putting in a pushbutton start. Anyone done that?
#5
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Also, looking at Ideola's Pelican procedure and comparing it with the 944 S2 video:
It looks like getting at the aluminum casting that holds the lock cylinder on an S2 may be significantly more difficult. Ideola doesn't mention the MY of the car he's working on. Maybe he'll catch this and chime in?
It looks like getting at the aluminum casting that holds the lock cylinder on an S2 may be significantly more difficult. Ideola doesn't mention the MY of the car he's working on. Maybe he'll catch this and chime in?
#6
First spray a little WD40 (it will rejuvenate the old grease on the tumblers) in the key slot, then put the right key in and try tapping on the key very gently using a something like a small wooden dowel. Hopefully you can get the jammed up tumbler(s) to drop back down. Good luck.
#7
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First spray a little WD40 (it will rejuvenate the old grease on the tumblers) in the key slot, then put the right key in and try tapping on the key very gently using a something like a small wooden dowel. Hopefully you can get the jammed up tumbler(s) to drop back down. Good luck.
Thanks for being a calming influence,
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#8
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No luck with lubrication
Well, I've gotten back to the car, which is at the new shop in Paso Robles. The lift and all my tools are still in Big Basin though so I'm a bit handicapped. I guess I was overly optimistic about having "finished" the restoration and didn't account for breaking it almost as soon as I got it here.
Anyway, I spent yesterday using a product called "3 in 1 Dry Lock Lubricant" to maybe loosen and lubricate the ignition lock cylinder and after about an hour of spritzing and wiggling I conceded defeat. I must have bent the tumblers and its just not willing to break free.
I've watched Jurgen's video on YouTube explaining how to remove the ignition switch on an S2:
Most of it requires simple tools I either have here or can buy cheap (who doesn't need more screwdrivers?), but the idea of center punching the shear pins and drilling them out is a bit daunting. He also recommends fabricating a shield to protect the dash from scaring while drilling/extracting the shear bolts. Another person commented that an alternative to using a punch, drill and extractor bit is to dremel a slot in the shear bolts and take them out with a screwdriver. Unfortunately my dremel is still in Big Basin so I'll either need to wait until I make the next round trip next month or buy another dremel.
I can't help but think there must be a simpler and less invasive procedure for pulling that lock cylinder without removing the dash. If I were willing to destroy the cylinder (I am since I thinks it's toasted) could I maybe drill it out and pull it? Anyone tried that? I imagine I'd have trouble installing a new one that way so probably not, but thought I'd ask. Maybe there's some other trick? I'd actually like to replace the keyed cylinder with a push button starter anyway since I plan to install a battery cutoff switch before I start racing it.
Maybe I could just hotwire it somehow? Cut into the starter wiring harness and install a hidden "on" and momentary start switch under the dash? If I left the lock cylinder unmolested, that should occupy a car thief for quite some time. Sort of a "security by obscurity" approach?
Open to any and all creative solutions that don't involve tearing out the dash and drilling out those shear bolts.
Anyway, I spent yesterday using a product called "3 in 1 Dry Lock Lubricant" to maybe loosen and lubricate the ignition lock cylinder and after about an hour of spritzing and wiggling I conceded defeat. I must have bent the tumblers and its just not willing to break free.
I've watched Jurgen's video on YouTube explaining how to remove the ignition switch on an S2:
Most of it requires simple tools I either have here or can buy cheap (who doesn't need more screwdrivers?), but the idea of center punching the shear pins and drilling them out is a bit daunting. He also recommends fabricating a shield to protect the dash from scaring while drilling/extracting the shear bolts. Another person commented that an alternative to using a punch, drill and extractor bit is to dremel a slot in the shear bolts and take them out with a screwdriver. Unfortunately my dremel is still in Big Basin so I'll either need to wait until I make the next round trip next month or buy another dremel.
I can't help but think there must be a simpler and less invasive procedure for pulling that lock cylinder without removing the dash. If I were willing to destroy the cylinder (I am since I thinks it's toasted) could I maybe drill it out and pull it? Anyone tried that? I imagine I'd have trouble installing a new one that way so probably not, but thought I'd ask. Maybe there's some other trick? I'd actually like to replace the keyed cylinder with a push button starter anyway since I plan to install a battery cutoff switch before I start racing it.
Maybe I could just hotwire it somehow? Cut into the starter wiring harness and install a hidden "on" and momentary start switch under the dash? If I left the lock cylinder unmolested, that should occupy a car thief for quite some time. Sort of a "security by obscurity" approach?
Open to any and all creative solutions that don't involve tearing out the dash and drilling out those shear bolts.
#10
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#11
Well since the lock cylinder has to come out and you are considering a push button setup you might try the old car thief's trick of yanking the lock cylinder out with a dent pulling slide hammer. Run the screw down into the key slot and yank. You can then use a straight blade screwdriver to engage the switch itself until you get the push button installed.
#12
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I think it's a VW cylinder so maybe ask on some VW boards. Maybe drilling out the tumblers to make it possible to turn is an easier first step. Maybe easier to put a new cylinder into your housing rather than break and replace the housing.
#13
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Maybe I could just hotwire it somehow? Cut into the starter wiring harness and install a hidden "on" and momentary start switch under the dash? If I left the lock cylinder unmolested, that should occupy a car thief for quite some time. Sort of a "security by obscurity" approach?
Open to any and all creative solutions that don't involve tearing out the dash and drilling out those shear bolts.
As Spencer mentioned, drilling out the shear bolts is not a big deal. I've done this on a couple of my race cars. Simple stuff. Of course you lose the steering lock 'feature'. Something you generally don't need on a race car, anyway.
I don't think you have many options if you are unable to get the cylinder to rotate (whether with a key or a screwdriver).
#14
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One thing to consider is depending on where you race this car, most organizing bodies require you to remove the steering lock, so you're going to have to remove it anyway to accomplish that.
#15
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Well since the lock cylinder has to come out and you are considering a push button setup you might try the old car thief's trick of yanking the lock cylinder out with a dent pulling slide hammer. Run the screw down into the key slot and yank. You can then use a straight blade screwdriver to engage the switch itself until you get the push button installed.
So far there are two votes for drilling out the shear bolts and one video from Germany. I've torn it down to the point in that video where drilling is the next step and so far I've only had a minor casualty; one of the plastic switch retaining clips on the back of a dash trim piece broke while I was removing the switch. I think I can fix it with JB Weld.
I still need some advice. I can't find a center punch or a drill bit that will make a dent in those bolts. Finding a 6" carbide bit for steel seems difficult, haven't seen anything carbide tipped but masonry bits. I did find a carbide tipped center punch but they're sort of expensive.
What punches/drills did you folks use for the job?
Thanks,
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 12-19-2018 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Problems with paragraphs