CyCloNe!

Took a wire wheel to the rust spot to break up a bunch of the loose rust. Then soaked the panel in Evapo-Rust which did really nothing. I cleaned it off and covered it in Naval Jelly so we will see how it goes after this.

ealoken

Nice project you got there.
With your skills, you can make that rear seat delete your self, like i did.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...l#post14027222

CyCloNe!

Laid out most of the pieces to get an idea. Still playing with the floor rust, should paint it soon. After having the floor pieces laid out I have extra pieces not sure what they are for. I don’t seem them in the PDF or in additional photos I’ve seen.

CyCloNe!

Still have more playing around to do. Planning on not glueing the carpet down in the front cabin area. There are a few pieces that have to be glued, like the rear seat delete pieces and pieces next to it. The front needs a minor slit for the acceleration pedal, it had the notch in the floor mat for the pedal but not the carpet. I went ahead and bolted in a manual seat for the driver as we are cutting weight. Overall the carpet fits decent. Some pieces are hard to get a 2” overlap to hide joints and some seem shaped incorrectly but useable. I still have extra pieces floating around as well.

Currently considering a console delete, even though it’s one of my favorite parts of the interior. Just so spacious without it.

968to986

Looking good. So is the verdict that this kit is NLA?

CyCloNe!

Trying out the GPI All Aluminum 951 Radiator… Build quality looks decent. A few things I notice that this wasn’t a direct install. The fan mounting tabs are off slightly so the shroud holes would need to be enlarged. Also the bottom radiator bracket I am not confident a stock turbo one will work. I have 944S so I had an NA bracket, which I cut in half and bent/hammered to a decent fit. Also the nipple port on the top driver side that goes to the coolant res seems to be a hair different so it wouldn’t fully tighten. More updates to come as I finish.

CyCloNe!

Well this so far has been a fun journey lol.

1) Radiator fan screws have different spacing than stock
2) Radiator fan screws different size but at least
a common metric size.
3) Can’t use factory pinch bolts (expected, used L brackets in pinch bolt location to keep the radiator upright)
4) Factory radiator bracket doesn’t work, expected but not confident the turbo one will work either so made my own for now.
5) Fan switch needs an o-ring the factory gasket doesn’t seal
6) Coolant Res nipple doesn’t fit it threads in but not the right size it’s smaller than the new threads.

so right now I have it in but I am leaking from the res hose that goes to nipple which I have by passed temporarily but it the leaks through the cap hose as well. The coolant isn’t hot when it comes out it’s just from the pressure. So hopefully when I find the nipple I need it will work correctly, I think since I have it blocked off the pressure is pushing it through the cap hose.

CyCloNe!

Finally got the system bled. I had a huge air pocket so bad that the top radiator hose would stay cool. This time I waited till it was full hot (just before the red) and cut it off. Opened the ports on the heads to let any steam come out and closed it.

so the top white mark is around 212 degrees and the middle mark is around 176 degrees. Standard LS runs about 195-210 stock in a truck so figure I am in a good zone.

I haven’t driven it on the street since I changed it so that will be the main deciding factor but my thoughts so far on the Chinese full Aluminum radiator.

1) Build quality looks good as far as welded, sealed and so on go.
2) Fitment is decent as far as engine bay size goes. Not 100 percent sure the factory turbo radiator bracket would work so close to tell. Also pinch bolts can’t be used.
3) Fan Fitment is a 5 out of 10, as I had to enlarge my shroud holes and they use different thread pitch for the shroud. The good part is the bolts are a plus as they are a common metric size now but still a pain that they weren’t provided or mentioned the size to use.
4) The nipple is the coolant res is a frustrating part is the factory one threads in but loose. I am currently using the supplied drain plug instead of the nipple. I have also blocked off the hose from the res to the radiator that attaches to that nipple. I am not sure what thread pitch they used but if you do the radiator check the size on the plug. I had a hard time
matching it locally to get the correct pitch.

For me since I have a v8 in the car and am used to making stuff for it I give it an 8 out of 10. If I had a turbo car and was just a factory replacement I would probably give it a 5/6 out of 10. It seems to work well but the additional work is aggravating for a standard radiator change. The roughly 3hr job took me 5-6hrs as I had to make a new lower radiator bracket, redo the shroud, find fan bolts, make an L-bracket brace since the pinch bolts were unusable and the nipple issue.

CyCloNe!

My understanding it is can still be ordered through App Biz, you will have to email or call them as they don’t offer it on their site.