Madmax64

I tried searching because I saw some people talk about this in other posts, but after going 5 pages into the search I didn't really find what I was looking for...

How much of an increase in HP will I get by removing the PS components and rack and going with a factory manual rack? I'm also thinking about removing the AC compressor since the AC doesn't work. How much of an increase in HP will I get by removing these two systems? Also how much will it impact the weight ratio distribution to go with a lexi rear hatch?

Noahs944

Not enough difference in performance to make these changes. I'd keep the a/c and fix it if the car was mine (I love a/c). De-powering the power steering improves the feel when driving & it is that improved feel which makes the car quicker imho.

harveyf

Check out the Choosing a New Cam thread. Tom says every 10 lbs of weight loss is 1 hp. I never argue with Tom except over who gets to pick up the check

Regarding the hatch, it represents about a 50 pound chunk of weight and it is high up in the car. Obviously, getting rid of weight high up in the car will help lower the center of gravity of the car, a good thing. As far as the change in front to rear balance, if you can spot the difference, you have a better butt dyno that I do! I got my hatch weight down to 10 pounds but it was severe surgery.

https://newhillgarage.com/2016/02/07...ght-loss-plan/

If your asking about the hp to drive the power steering pump and the AC compressor, I don't have a clue. See my Measuring HP thread. Exactly an example of why I brought it up. Go out, do a test run. Unhook the power steering belt. Do a test run. Turn the AC on. Do a test run. Turn the AC off. Do a test run. If you can see an appreciable difference, I would be surprised but try it and let us know what you come up with.

My dad was so fricken cheap, he used to remove the mechanical fan at the front of the engine on long trips because he thought he got better fuel mileage. And he would never use AC. It was 4 window cooling for us. I don't think he ever bought into the reports that a car cruising with closed windows reduces the drag enough to pay for the AC. God bless him.

Madmax64

The main reasons I was asking about these is because I am having issues with both of them and I've pretty much decided I will be going with a full manual rack. Once I do that the PS parts will be coming off anyway. As far as the AC, if it can be fixed then I'll fix it, if not, then it may come off too.

I got my 944 S for $1800 and mechanically it was great (until I hit a pot hole on the way home after buying it), that's when the PS issues started. It needs work here and there, like the rear hatch latches, the driver's door latch, some interior trim needs put back... mostly cosmetic. The only mechanical issue (other than the PS leak that developed and AC) is the idle runs high. This car runs circles around my C3 already!

bonus12

You will get extra hp by disabling the PS, there's no doubt. It's less strain too. Maybe not enough to notice but it's there and always there. I would guess 1/2 hp. I agree about keeping the A/C. It's your choice. It takes almost no power to spin the compressor when it's not engaged. But if this is your hobby and a car you'll take care of for a while, you may end up getting around to fixing up the a/c. It can be useful to any special person in the passenger seat. To delete the belt and compressor, etc, for weight savings, you can get a delete bracket. I actually have a like-new one from a parts car that I won't use.

Christopher Zach

An AC compressor on my electric truck pulls about 1500 watts (5a@300v). So at 745 watts per HP your AC unit is sucking a solid 2.011 hp from your car while cooling your bod.

Van

I was going to say power steering probably takes 1 HP - that's 100% more than Bonus12's guess!

Holytin

I suggest calling Lindsey Racing - ask about their MAF conversion kit (Rogue Tuning). Eliminating the highly inefficient barndoor style air flow meter with a true MAF will work wonders, especially if you retard your timing as well. Check with Rogue as well - worked fine for me! Good luck!

Madmax64

Not sure since I just bought the car a few weeks ago... but I think it already has that. At least what's in my car looks like that and he said he did an upgrade to the air box.

DSMblue

Not to rain on a parade, but the changes that you are talking about learned sources have said would net you 3hp. Which is 2% or so. In other words, not worth the time and effort as 2% is basically nothing. If you are looking for gains on auto-x and track days, you would be far better off with working on driving classes and suspension and tire changes.

Madmax64

Not raining on anything... My PS system is leaking bad and two attempts now just brought on some new leaks. I found a true manual rack and plan on switching to that. That's why I talked about removing the PS system, not so much for the HP, but I was curious about that because someone said in another thread it did increase HP. Sounds like not by much though, the biggest advantage sounds like less clutter, a little less weight, and better feel to the steering. As far as the AC... same, it doesn't work so I was considering removing it but sounds like that one will be a keeper and try to fix it down the road.

Noahs944

...too funny!
-
To the original poster: What items were damaged with the pothole incident?

finally!

Reminds me of a friend who drove from Eastern New Mexico to Minnesota with his sister driving... she would not turn AC on above first fan speed due she was convinced by her husband it used more HP and thus better MPG if left at first setting... ROFL

DSMblue

Ah, understand. I haven't found PS systems to be that much of a pain to fix. Leaks (based on doing this both on my 944 and 968) have necessitated replacing the rack with rebuilt units from Zims. I haven't had a problem with the PS pump itself, but have replaced the reservoir (cheap insurance) and on the 944, I did replace the line going to the cooler. AC is still to be sorted out on the 968, will be converting to 134a soon. R12 is not good for the environment, and expensive to recharge.

Madmax64

I think I finally found the last leak, at least I hope I did! I still plan on going to a full manual rack, but at least now I think (hope) I can do it on MY terms and not because the car is down.

Right now the last two things left are figuring out why it is idling so high, and fixing the driver's door latch... it is stuck closed! then it gets a paint job.