Talk me out of an '86 NA w/166K miles.
#16
Rennlist Member
Congrats on the car! Since it appears that the AC system is original, you may want to consider replacing the expansion valve (found behind the passenger knee pad). I'm told that these clog up over long periods of time. My 84 had this issue a few years ago...
#17
Three Wheelin'
for the power steering, I would recommend getting a rebuilt rack through Zim's. Have had great luck with their racks, replaced on the 944 as well as my 968.
#19
Team Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
Posts: 28,704
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944s require a lot of care, upkeep, and repairs,
They can give back a lot of fun driving, enjoyable service and reliability.
At this stage, it may go up on blocks sometimes, or often.
Some 944's go up for months/years on end.
Sometimes it's a bridge too far to get them back on the roads.
When i first lurked these forums 12 years ago in 2008,
968s that were already 16~18 years old.
944's were about 17~26 years old.
Good 944s still commanded premium prices: maybe $9~15K (then).
Well sorted 968's sold for about $12~24K prior to the Great Recession.
They were then & now, veritable bargains: properly maintained:
they'll deliver performance and reliability for 200, 250, 300K miles and beyond.
Now these 944's are 30~38 years old, and their electrical harnesses are
semi-fried. Not conjecture: They suffer a lot of ignition problems/ no-starts.
Search the forums: we have 1800 no-start holocaust threads.
The 968's are 25-28 years old, now. They STILL suffer near zero ignition issues.
10 years ago, it was obvious this was how things were going to go.
For this reason alone why do people wait to move up
to the 968's steadfast performance and reliability?
Thanks to their updated, 90s Motronic's. they STILL suffer near zero
electrical issues: the ecu's are stout as a rock.
Whatever you do get: run it, enjoy it, put on big wheels and tires,
improve it, get a respray (it's your car do what you want), keep it pretty, drive it hard.
944: It can work. if you can keep it up, you'll love it.
When the engine blows up (and it will), if you desire to keep it,
i strongly urge going V8 (a bona-fide long term strategy for preserving a 944).
Done properly, It's a huge performance upgrade,
that can be a daily driver: not just a novelty car.
Before anyone spends big money purchasing and sorting a 944,
they should give my no bullshytte/ 968 buying guide a read:
https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...l#post16842408
i've driven my 968 before and after V8 swap like it were a Toyota Camry
(drove 285 miles from New Jersey to Boston the day before yesterday)
Boston to Florida and back a dozen times, the midwest and back, about 3 dozen times.
Since swapping the engine: i've done (7) 3000 mi transcons from Boston to LA, and back,
regional trips throughout the NE US, and to the midwest and back a few times.
i need to go 1200 miles to the midwest or Florida: i'll just get in and go.
259K miles since it left the factory. (193K miles, since i brought her home)
968's are pure gold: i'm never selling mine.
They'll have to pry it from my cold dead hands.
They can give back a lot of fun driving, enjoyable service and reliability.
At this stage, it may go up on blocks sometimes, or often.
Some 944's go up for months/years on end.
Sometimes it's a bridge too far to get them back on the roads.
When i first lurked these forums 12 years ago in 2008,
968s that were already 16~18 years old.
944's were about 17~26 years old.
Good 944s still commanded premium prices: maybe $9~15K (then).
Well sorted 968's sold for about $12~24K prior to the Great Recession.
They were then & now, veritable bargains: properly maintained:
they'll deliver performance and reliability for 200, 250, 300K miles and beyond.
Now these 944's are 30~38 years old, and their electrical harnesses are
semi-fried. Not conjecture: They suffer a lot of ignition problems/ no-starts.
Search the forums: we have 1800 no-start holocaust threads.
The 968's are 25-28 years old, now. They STILL suffer near zero ignition issues.
10 years ago, it was obvious this was how things were going to go.
For this reason alone why do people wait to move up
to the 968's steadfast performance and reliability?
Thanks to their updated, 90s Motronic's. they STILL suffer near zero
electrical issues: the ecu's are stout as a rock.
Whatever you do get: run it, enjoy it, put on big wheels and tires,
improve it, get a respray (it's your car do what you want), keep it pretty, drive it hard.
944: It can work. if you can keep it up, you'll love it.
When the engine blows up (and it will), if you desire to keep it,
i strongly urge going V8 (a bona-fide long term strategy for preserving a 944).
Done properly, It's a huge performance upgrade,
that can be a daily driver: not just a novelty car.
Before anyone spends big money purchasing and sorting a 944,
they should give my no bullshytte/ 968 buying guide a read:
https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...l#post16842408
i've driven my 968 before and after V8 swap like it were a Toyota Camry
(drove 285 miles from New Jersey to Boston the day before yesterday)
Boston to Florida and back a dozen times, the midwest and back, about 3 dozen times.
Since swapping the engine: i've done (7) 3000 mi transcons from Boston to LA, and back,
regional trips throughout the NE US, and to the midwest and back a few times.
i need to go 1200 miles to the midwest or Florida: i'll just get in and go.
259K miles since it left the factory. (193K miles, since i brought her home)
968's are pure gold: i'm never selling mine.
They'll have to pry it from my cold dead hands.
Last edited by odurandina; 11-28-2020 at 03:17 AM.
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I wonder how many of those no-starts had hacked upped/modified wiring?
On a stock harness is there a preemptive fix?
Nowadays after this engine blows, I see a GM turbo-I4 in its far future.
On a stock harness is there a preemptive fix?
Nowadays after this engine blows, I see a GM turbo-I4 in its far future.
#21
Three Wheelin'
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I'd say the majority of crank/no start situations are caused by bad speed and reference sensor wiring. It's a pretty easy fix (Lindsey Racing makes a replacement harness). It's true that the DMEs sometimes go bad. Sometimes it's just cracked solder joints, sometimes it's worse than that. But if you end up with one you can't fix, there's still plenty of good ones out there, and there's even a company making brand new ones now (http://www.ftech9.com/new-products).
#24
Unbannable
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I bought my '87 in February, 2000 with 82k miles on it and I've got 192k miles on it now. I do my own work and have found that the car seems to be on a three-year cycle. Two years cost very little (things like an occasional window switch and whatnot) and the third year is more expensive because it coincides with some sort of major maintenance. In the summer of 2019, I did a suspension refresh (Konis all around, rebuilt control arms, new caster blocks and tie rods) and then redid the vacuum lines in December, and the summer of 2016 was the timing/balance belts and water pump. This past January was the first time the car has ever failed to get me home when it wouldn't start but the problem was solved when I replaced the other hoses and air valve under the intake (I must have jostled something while doing the vacuum lines).
Otherwise, the car gives me very little trouble. It's not my daily driver but it's still driven regularly and I have no problems taking it on road trips (I drove it to NC last November and Michigan a few summers ago).
Personally, I think the key to these cars is to get a good one (deferred maintenance is the death of these things) and be able to turn your own wrenches (using the Visa wrench will get expensive quick!). I'm also a firm believer that they need their exercise so driving them often is better than letting them sit.
Anyway, if you haven't already done it (or if it wasn't mentioned earlier in this thread), look up Clark's Garage. Their shop manual is a life saver with these cars.
BB.
Otherwise, the car gives me very little trouble. It's not my daily driver but it's still driven regularly and I have no problems taking it on road trips (I drove it to NC last November and Michigan a few summers ago).
Personally, I think the key to these cars is to get a good one (deferred maintenance is the death of these things) and be able to turn your own wrenches (using the Visa wrench will get expensive quick!). I'm also a firm believer that they need their exercise so driving them often is better than letting them sit.
Anyway, if you haven't already done it (or if it wasn't mentioned earlier in this thread), look up Clark's Garage. Their shop manual is a life saver with these cars.
BB.
#27
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Sent them an email. For similar money to fixing the PS system you get a rebuilt manual rack, less weight, less worry, better feel. No brainer there.