New Battery, No Crank...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
New Battery, No Crank...
Hey guys, I have done a couple of quick searches here and couldn't find what I was looking for so please excuse the intrusion if this has already been covered. Long time Porsche owner and just added my 5th PCar, a 1986 944 non running project car. Previous owner stated it was running 8 months ago. Checked the fluid levels, replaced battery and cleaned up the negative terminal. Popped the key in and turned to first position, gauges came on but NOTHING showing in the voltmeter. Attempted to start the car, nothing....BUT every 3rd or 4th turn I hear and feel a click in the switch but still no engagement of the starter.
My instinct is 2 things, ignition switch and/or starter and potentially new battery cables, especially the negative side. I have not raised the car on the lift at this point to even verify if the starter is hooked up lol BUT wanted to fish a bit here and see if anyone has had the same experience or if my instincts are headed in the right direction.
Thanks!!!!
My instinct is 2 things, ignition switch and/or starter and potentially new battery cables, especially the negative side. I have not raised the car on the lift at this point to even verify if the starter is hooked up lol BUT wanted to fish a bit here and see if anyone has had the same experience or if my instincts are headed in the right direction.
Thanks!!!!
#2
Check the wiring diagram. Look for a good 12 volt signal from the igniton switch to the starter small terminal. Look for a no voltage drope between the battery positive and the starter large terminal. Look for no voltage drope between the battery negative and the outer case of the starter.
If none of those helps, try using a screwdriver between the small terminal and the large terminal on the starter. (Make sure the car is in neutral first.)
If none of those helps, try using a screwdriver between the small terminal and the large terminal on the starter. (Make sure the car is in neutral first.)
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Check the battery, sounds a bit like it's just not charged. Could also be battery cable ends or similar also but it just sounds like a battery to me.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
brand new battery so that’s ruled out:-). I also found that the DME is not original so that could be part of the problem as well. Tackling starter connections tomorrow hopefully.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
New doesn't mean "still charged". You are here asking questions so it's not obvious what the issue is, makes sense to see if the battery is at 12.7v or so and to re-check the cables for tight or any problems with the terminals.
It's not the DME, how could the DME prevent the totally unrelated cranking of the starter/engine? Neither alarm (if fitted) nor DME are involved in the wiring from the key switch to the starter solenoid.
If you do not have a voltmeter (other than the one on the dash showing nothing) you might see if the dome light and headlights are bright.
It's not the DME, how could the DME prevent the totally unrelated cranking of the starter/engine? Neither alarm (if fitted) nor DME are involved in the wiring from the key switch to the starter solenoid.
If you do not have a voltmeter (other than the one on the dash showing nothing) you might see if the dome light and headlights are bright.
#6
Rennlist Member
New doesn't mean "still charged". You are here asking questions so it's not obvious what the issue is, makes sense to see if the battery is at 12.7v or so and to re-check the cables for tight or any problems with the terminals.
It's not the DME, how could the DME prevent the totally unrelated cranking of the starter/engine? Neither alarm (if fitted) nor DME are involved in the wiring from the key switch to the starter solenoid.
If you do not have a voltmeter (other than the one on the dash showing nothing) you might see if the dome light and headlights are bright.
It's not the DME, how could the DME prevent the totally unrelated cranking of the starter/engine? Neither alarm (if fitted) nor DME are involved in the wiring from the key switch to the starter solenoid.
If you do not have a voltmeter (other than the one on the dash showing nothing) you might see if the dome light and headlights are bright.
#7
Burning Brakes
have you put the car in first gear and rocked it back and forth to check to see if the starter pinion is jammed in the engaged position.?
When you turn the ignition key to the ON position.... a 12v + supply should then be supplied from the ignition switch to the small terminal of the starter solenoid . Check that the voltage is there first .
If 12v+ is present at the solenoid then the starter solenoid is probably seized/jammed , defective or has a poor earth.
When you turn the ignition key to the ON position.... a 12v + supply should then be supplied from the ignition switch to the small terminal of the starter solenoid . Check that the voltage is there first .
If 12v+ is present at the solenoid then the starter solenoid is probably seized/jammed , defective or has a poor earth.
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#8
Racer
Get the battery tested. I know you said it's new, but still, where you bought it can load test it for free. If that tests good Look at cables and ground points. If the cables are good, will jumpering the started solenoid spin the motor? Go from there...
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, the negative battery cable was in very poor condition so I have a new battery harness en route and will update once that arrives and I get it installed. Appreciate all the thoughts and ideas!!