KLA solid upp strut mount?
09-29-2004, 03:31 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
KLA solid upp strut mount?
Anyone tried them?
Just saw them on their website:
http://www.klaindustries.net/strtmnt/strtmnt.htm
Looks great!
I need to replace my strut mounts and are looking for alternative. A camberplate might be to expensive but I don't want unncessary rubber!
These plates look good, and the price is good too.
Any thoughts?
Just saw them on their website:
http://www.klaindustries.net/strtmnt/strtmnt.htm
Looks great!
I need to replace my strut mounts and are looking for alternative. A camberplate might be to expensive but I don't want unncessary rubber!
These plates look good, and the price is good too.
Any thoughts?
09-29-2004, 09:56 AM
#2
Former Sponsor
Duke-
You beat me to the punch here. Just put them up on the site over the weekend. Was going to do an 'official' annoucement later this week. But let's just consider this it! Check out the addition to the rear coil-overs that's new also......
You beat me to the punch here. Just put them up on the site over the weekend. Was going to do an 'official' annoucement later this week. But let's just consider this it! Check out the addition to the rear coil-overs that's new also......
09-29-2004, 11:15 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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How would this impact strain on the early control arm?
Since the original was rubber, I GUESSED that it might filter high frequency components - at least a bit of their amplitude - upon high energy impact with, say, a particularly sharp pothole. This in turn alleviates strain on the steel control arms, or so goes my guess at the system parameters.
The reason I ask:
I've been wanting to try a solid mount ever since I bought the car; I think it might reduce the famed 55-65mph shake in the steering comlumn. Since I replaced the old rubber mounts with new rubber mounts already, I can say it wasn't that the age and wear of the old mounts was the culprit.
(I also relaced tie rod ends, all bushing, strut inserts (upgraded), ball joints, and checked steering column U-joints, bought new rims, balance, rebalance... EVERYTHING I could think of!)
What are your thoughts on my (crazy?) train of thought?
Since the original was rubber, I GUESSED that it might filter high frequency components - at least a bit of their amplitude - upon high energy impact with, say, a particularly sharp pothole. This in turn alleviates strain on the steel control arms, or so goes my guess at the system parameters.
The reason I ask:
I've been wanting to try a solid mount ever since I bought the car; I think it might reduce the famed 55-65mph shake in the steering comlumn. Since I replaced the old rubber mounts with new rubber mounts already, I can say it wasn't that the age and wear of the old mounts was the culprit.
(I also relaced tie rod ends, all bushing, strut inserts (upgraded), ball joints, and checked steering column U-joints, bought new rims, balance, rebalance... EVERYTHING I could think of!)
What are your thoughts on my (crazy?) train of thought?
09-29-2004, 11:24 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Website says 6061 alu.
It will most likely put some more stress on the a-arms etc. but it's the same with all mods you do to get better suspension feedback and feel.
It will most likely put some more stress on the a-arms etc. but it's the same with all mods you do to get better suspension feedback and feel.
09-29-2004, 11:29 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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I read "steel plate" and am interested in the type; the aluminum / steel interface can be a tricky one in damp high temp conditions:
From the site:
"Our mount is constructed from a steel plate that bolts to the car. An aluminum(6061) plate that bolts to the steel holds a spherical bearing."
From the site:
"Our mount is constructed from a steel plate that bolts to the car. An aluminum(6061) plate that bolts to the steel holds a spherical bearing."
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09-29-2004, 11:58 AM
#10
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Scott,
That looks awesome! Thanks for providing a great value to the community once again. How many miles do you think we will be able to get out of these bearings? Also, I assume these are track tested, right?
Max
That looks awesome! Thanks for providing a great value to the community once again. How many miles do you think we will be able to get out of these bearings? Also, I assume these are track tested, right?
Max
09-29-2004, 12:11 PM
#11
Drifting
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Originally Posted by slevy951
Duke-
You beat me to the punch here. Just put them up on the site over the weekend. Was going to do an 'official' annoucement later this week. But let's just consider this it! Check out the addition to the rear coil-overs that's new also......
You beat me to the punch here. Just put them up on the site over the weekend. Was going to do an 'official' annoucement later this week. But let's just consider this it! Check out the addition to the rear coil-overs that's new also......
What is new on the coil overs?
Mike
09-29-2004, 01:13 PM
#12
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by 97xray
I read "steel plate" and am interested in the type; the aluminum / steel interface can be a tricky one in damp high temp conditions"
This is true but most galvanic activity at this interface can be eliminated with a thin HMWPE shim between the mating parts. Of more concern is the mounting surface of an aluminum wheel to the ferrous hub; much more heat cycling would take place here; then add the collection of residual road salts and the recipe for galvanic corrosion is multuplied 50 fold compared to us dry landers on the West Coast. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the bi-metallic couple at the strut mount unless the car were submerged like in the Britney Spears video.
09-29-2004, 02:04 PM
#13
Instructor
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Well greetings from Pensacola Florida. I am glad to be back on line. Anyway, the concern about dissimilar metal corrosion might be a little overstated. To help prevent corrosion to the steel plate we have zinc plated the steel. We have also used a 6061 aluminum material. These together are not bad for DMC. It would be of greater concern if we had used 7075 T6 material because of the high magnesium content. On both aircraft and Porsches, steel to aluminum interface is common without a problem. Head bolts are steel holding down aluminum heads, aluminum wheels on steel hubs etc. For those who are concerned, you can reduce the possibility by using an epoxy primer and prime doth pieces and let them dry. Then just before putting the aluminum hat onto the steel base apply a wet coat of primer then assembling the parts wet. This will help seal any gap between the two parts and help keep the moisture out. Without moisture acting like an electrolyte the galvanic action can not occur. 
09-29-2004, 02:14 PM
#14
Former Sponsor
I'll let Ken go into detail on the dissimilar metal thing. But, he said it wasn't a problem.
New on the rear coil-overs is our inversion kit. That allows the adj **** to be by the lower mount now. Pics on the web site.
Bearing life? Really don't know. We've got a couple thousand miles on the test car with one track day. No problems noticed. That's what I love about these, you could change the bearing once a year if you wanted for a total cost of about $28 in parts and have new mounts!
New on the rear coil-overs is our inversion kit. That allows the adj **** to be by the lower mount now. Pics on the web site.
Bearing life? Really don't know. We've got a couple thousand miles on the test car with one track day. No problems noticed. That's what I love about these, you could change the bearing once a year if you wanted for a total cost of about $28 in parts and have new mounts!
