Chris_924s

Back to the basics. Double check the painfully obvious.

MM951

Firing order is right, rotor is in the right spot (when cam is brought to TDC its pointing @ #1) and looks good.

Two things I think I should bring up. One- When I was doing the timing belt I could not find "OT" in the window (covered in crap) and when I got the notch in the flywheel the cam was ~70* from where the notch was. Brought the cam to TDC and made sure the piston was at the top of its travel when the cam was @ TDC (it was)

two- when I tried putting #4 spark plug back in after removing all the plugs it wouldn't go down as far as the rest. I sprayed the threads w/ wd-40 and got it in most of the way. I need to go buy what the listers told me to on hte other post to fix that.

would either of those issues contribute to this?

Yabo

the sparkplug not being in all the way could, you could have a compression leak through the sparkplug.

MM951

Cranking the motor over by hand I didn't hear anything coming out.

I'll double check and pick up what I need to @ Autozone tonight so that sparkplug goes all the way in..

Thanks
mike

Yabo

well, even if its nto that, it's always good to get everythign to where it should be first.

KLR

Generally, if the cam belt were off by a tooth or two, the car would idle fine but be breathless at high revs or gutless at low RPM, depending on which direction the timing is off. Check again for vaccuum leaks (there are a few ways to do this), arcing plug wires (perhaps they were damaged when you removed and replaced them), properly fitted and gaped spark plugs, etc.

Charlie

Mike, see if the AFM is opening when you crank the car.

Roy LaZelle

How about the idle control valve ? You might take a look at it to be sure that the rotating shaft is moving freely. I had a stuck idle control valve that caused all kinds of running problems. --Roy--

MM951

Devon - I got the spark plug chaser and will fix that pr oblem tommorow AM

KLR- How do I check for vac leaks w/o a compression tester? Spray soapy water? I will replace the spark plugs with new ones tommorow. What do you reccomend?

Charlie how do you see if the AFM is opening?

Roy, ill check that once I find out exactly where that is, unless you can let me know

Thanks guys!
Mike

MM951

OK, I chased the threads in #4 sparkplug so taht goes in properly now.

Also checked the AFM by unplugging it. Car died right away with an unplugged AFM and acted the same as before when plugged in.

I am searching for the Idle Stab. Valve. Where is it?

BTW: My mom said it sounds like our tractor does when the choke is fully opened. Apparently she also heard a pop in the engine bay. Does that give any more info?

I will try to adjust the idle now..

Thanks
Mike

Danno

Hook up a voltmeter to the AFM's output wire and see that it's putting out. Best to do this down by the DME box so you can monitor the AFM's voltage while driving. It's on pin#7, a green/red-stripe wire. Probe for +positive voltage and use the big brown/yellow-stripe wire for ground. Measure voltage under the following conditions:

IDLE: voltage = ??? , also measure manifold-vacuum with engine cold and warmed-up
3rd gear@3000 rpm steady-speed = ?? volts

Shutemup

gotta be timing........

Charlie

Mike,
A couple of things to do.
I would find the TDC mark on the flywheel and make sure the cam is in proper position. When you find it put some white paint by it so you can see it easier.

If you remove the air filter you should be able to see the flap on the air flow meter. When the you go to crank the car the flap should open from the engine vacuum. If you have a bad vacuum leak the flap can't stay open and the engine will not idle, but will run at speed.