MM951

Hey,

I just finished my belt job (allll day) and got the car going. Now the car cannot idle (just dies when there is no throttle) and when I took it up the street..it was VERY slow. It sounds like my timing is off (Kuhl951s words in a previous post come to mind...) or something else??

I don't wanna do the whole beltjob again.......

Mike

L8 APEKS

Sounds like timing to me. Sorry but that's about as much help as I can give here!

MM951

Isn't the timing controlled by the DME? My crank/cam timing was on and even if it was...the motor was not moved when the belt wasn't on..so it would be just as I left it, no?

Mike

L8 APEKS

It would be the cam/crank timing that would be off, that's my guess anyway. I've had it happen when I swore I didn't move either pulley, but somehow it got off by 1 or 2 teeth.

Yabo

Did you follow the directions that before tensioning you should have it 1.5 teeth off the mark?

Charlie

Check for a vacuum leak.

Danno

Check all the intake rubber hoses and clamps... AFM connector... plug-wires & sequence on the cap... rotor orientation (remember there's TWO bolts on the distributor rotor).

MM951

I thought the directions said do to check tension again with it 1.5teeth back. Did I read that wrong? I did tension at TDC, 1.5" back, and a final check @ TDC

Charlie- Should I check the airboot and around there for a vac leak? It would take a major vac. leak to cause it to shut down/have no power..right?

Thanks!
Mike

MM951

Danno- Would a loose clamp coming out of one of the tubes near the airboot/intake mani. area cause a problem like this? One of those clamps broke ..figured wouldnt be a big deal since the car is N/A (my conquest (turbo) is very sensitive to vac leaks, my honda (n/a) could have everyhthing leaking and still run

Thanks!
Mike

EDIT: Order on cap is the same (removed cap, but not wires)...the rotor only had one little black screw when I took it off...?

Chris_924s

Hi Mike!

Make sure the vacuum line to the brake booster is attached. Also any tears /rips/ leaks in the J boot.
FWIW when my AFM plug is off- my car will idle normally until warn, then idle creeps up to around 1800/2000 rpm.

MM951

Sean- Did your car act the way mine did?
Hey Chris- will do!


thanks!
Mike

Serge944

Here's the ticket. Its easy to accidentally disconnect some vaccum lines, especially if you remove the airbox when you do the job.

Ask me how I know.

Danno

"Would a loose clamp coming out of one of the tubes near the airboot/intake mani. area cause a problem like this? One of those clamps broke ..figured wouldnt be a big deal since the car is N/A (my conquest (turbo) is very sensitive to vac leaks, my honda (n/a) could have everyhthing leaking and still run"

If the hose is between the AFM and the intake-valves, it would certianly cause you MAJOR problems. That's because you'll be sucking in a tonne of air that won't flow past the AFM and get measured. The DME won't know that you've got extra air going into the engine and it won't inject a matching amount of fuel. This gets worse when you open the throttle because you'll suck in A LOT more extra air and the car will die. You can kind of feather the throttle gently and slowly open it to get the car to move around, but it'll run like crap.

MM951

well...I removed the airbox..checked all vac lines..reattached...replaced the clamp..tightened down every clamp even more...make sure the AFM connecter was tight

I still have the problem. The airboot looks like it has tiny cracks from being old..but none go all the way through.

any more ideas?
mike

Danno

Did you check the firing-order on the distributor-cap? Rotor?