Litespeeds

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-89...QQcmdZViewItem

I know Zimmerman has pretty good quality rotors but what do you guys think about this set that is selling on Ebay? Are these good for the track or should I get slotted rotors?

While I am at it, what brake pads do you recommend for the track? Hawk blues seem to be pretty popular. Anything else you can recommend?

Is there a favorite rotor and pad combo out there?

Dave

Stick with stock rotors, they are stronger and there is little to no real benefit to holes or slots on a stock 944.Spend the money on good pads instead, you won't regret it.

KuHL 951

The problem I see with most Zimmerman and Brembo rotors on eBay is they are drilled/slotted after the fact by the sellers. There is no way to know if stress relief or any type of heat treatment was done to them. Zimmermans are fine but stick to the unmodded version.

Z-man

As Dave said - stick with stock (Porsche OEM, not Zimmerman) rotors - solid vented. They have worked well for me these past few years of track driving.

As for brake pads: I use KFP Magnum gold track pads - they work great and don't bite into the rotors at all.

Be sure to also use a good high quality brake fluid (like Super Blue) and make sure you bleed often.

Cross-drilled rotors offer more bling than stopping power.
-Z-man.

joseph mitro

another vote for stock undrilled rotors

dead ohio sky

I have a problem with fade on my brakes. In this case does this mean i need better pads or what? I figured the drilled rotors cool down faster. And what about brake ducts effect on cooling the rotors?

Z-man

I'm assuming that you experience this problem on the track. (DE? Racing?)

I experience some brake fade while on the track as well - and it is more noticable if my pads are lower than 1/2 the orignial thickness. As the brake pad gets thinner, there's less material to dissipate the heat buildup generated by heavy braking.

How often do you bleed your brakes? You may have air in your system. The brakes should be bleed often - at least 3-4 times a typical DE season.

While ducts can help cool the rotors, a better way to help with the brake fade problem is to have proper braking techniques. Use your brakes for a shorter time, and get on them a bit harder in the braking zone. The less contact time you have between the brake pad and rotor, the better. Also: don't drag your foot on the brakes.

Another braking technqiue that can help is to use less brake pressure - if you're like me, you tend to over brake the corners. What I've done to help that problem is to move my braking points to an earlier marker. If you typically brake at the "2" marker, move back to the "3" or "4" marker, and brake less. Now, if you feel you're going too hot into the turn, you have some room to still apply brakes. Another advantage to this technique is that your car will be entering the turn in a more settled manner - the front/rear weight transfer won't be as great.

But I digress....
-Z.

eniac

I have had Zimmerman cross drilled and gas slotted (yes gas slotting is pointless) rotors on my car for a couple years. I bought them off Ebay also. I have a customer's 951 I often work on doing performance mods to. He has stock rotors and runs higher brake temps then I do. His brakes will start to get spongy where mine have never faded. This is after many cycles of hard braking with glowing red rotors. In fact he recently warped his stocks rotors, probably from overheating. Mine are still as straight as the day I put them on.

After driving these two cars side by side, I do notice a difference.

M758

I ran zimmerman drilled rotors for a long time on my 944-spec car. They actually worked quite well. I went through something like 5-6 sets of pads before I replaced the front rotors after they started to get a little thin.

When I replace them I when with simple stock solid vented ones. I notced no difference in braking performance. So my conclusion is that while they will last just fine they may not be any benfit to you.

Litespeeds

My conclusion from reading the responses is to stick with stock rotors and just upgrade to a good brake pad.

Is the Hawk Blue's the way to go or should I go with just the Hawk HP+?

M758

Hawk blues are best for track only cars as they are hard on rotors when cold. Plus they are a bit easier to lock up.

My advice is to start with KFP Mangnum Golds. Run these till you start over heating them. THen move to hawk blues.

I did that on my 944-spec.

Litespeeds

Thanks Joe for the recommendation. Is there a place where you can find the KFP Mangnum Golds for a good price?

m21sniper

I installed cross-drilleds on the rear on my 928S, and i did notice less fade while romping around on local windy country roads.

The holes allow air flow through the rotor and increase the surface area of the rotor, so they can't help but to dissipate more heat.

M758

Paragon Products!

M758

Honestly I am not sure how you can overheat the REAR brakes on country roads.