jmporsche944

I put in the new 1 piece conversion valve since I had the old 3 piece valve. The oil cooler housing is perfectly ligned up, I did it will the alignment tool, so thats in check. But the valve is damn hard to screw in there. I believe the haynes manual said to torque it to 33ft/lbs or something in that range. Im pushing way harder then that to get it to turn and its still got a good half inch to go in. Is it normally this hard to put in? I just want to make sure im not hurting anything before I continue threading this.

I have to believe its impossible to cross thread this, because the front of the relief valve must act as a guide to make sure that the threads go in straight. The threads on both the relief valve and the housing are clean. Is there a spring in the relief valve that is pushing back making it hard to thread? Im scared. Thanks In Advance.

-Jeff

BeerBurner

It was pretty easy to put mine back in after I inspected and cleaned it. It wasn't a loose fit or anything, and it had the resistance you'd expect from something that large, but it wasn't anything I'd qualify as "damn hard".

BB.

jmporsche944

Do you think I have reason to worry? I really really dont think its possible to cross thread something that large with that long rod infront of it.

BeerBurner

I'm not qualified to answer that, especially since I'm not actually there. But I'd definately wait to hear from a few others.

BB.

Serge944

It would take a lot of force to cross thread that. I'm hoping you'd realize and stop if it started to go in incorrectly.

Keep in mind that you have the spring pushing against the OPRV housing and there SHOULD be some resistance. Use your best judgement.

ahofam123

As Serge said, there is a spring providing some resistance. Also make sure that you have the actual 1 piece retrofit valve and not a conventional 1 piece valve. The normal 1 piece valve is longer and could possibly be the cause of your problems. IIRC, the retrofit valve has a chamfer at the end of the threads whereas the normal valve does not.

Charlie

Jeff,
If it is that hard to turn I think you have a problem. If your one piece is like mine the spring is inside the OPRV cylinder and will not be pushing back. I don't remember a spring being on the outside of the valve. I think mine turned without a lot of effort all the way to the crush washer. It has been 2 years since I have had mine out and at my age my memory is not very good.

jmporsche944

The part number on my valve is 944 107 035 11, which according to clarks garage is the correct 1 piece valve for my car.

I assume that the valve does not bottom out in the housing causeing increased resistance.. Does the end of the valve (the hex head) sit flush with the oil cooler when fully in?

Granite 944

I'm surely no expert with this, but the one pc. does have a spring inside the threaded cap part also. And if this spring is pushing the valve out toward the end of it (I would think this to be normal), than yes, you will have some good resistance to overcome to get that threaded part of the nut to engage and start threading on there. I have to say, yep, its normal. As said also above, just do your very best to make sure your not cross-threading it in there or you'll just create even more headaches to come.

1 pc. OPRV apart.

Granite 944

OH, there is the possibility you have the wrong 1 pc. oprv also. The later one, (like shown in my pic above) is longer, and not the replacement for either one of your cars. You can tell its the later version by looking at the threaded cap. As in the pic above, it is threaded straight accross to the very end of the cap. The one you need (early replacement 1pc.) will not look exactly like this. It will have somewhat of a tapered lead in on the threads. Does the one you have look exactly like the cap in my pic above? if so, it is the wrong valve. I'll look and see if I have a good pic of the "early" replacement 1 pc valve.

Granite 944

Best pic I can offer. You require the "A" valve. And those threads on the cap should look just like it.

Charlie

The one piece valve on the left (Fig. A) is the retrofit for the 1986 and older cars. The valve on the right (Fig. B) is the 1987 and newer valve.
On mine (fig A) the threaded part is made to the valve so that the spring does not provide resistance when installing.
The spring is inside the valve and should not provide any resistance when putting the valve it. The spring provides resistance to oil trying to force the plunger down at the top of the OPRV valve.
Mine also only has 1 O-ring that is at the top. It is one piece not in 2 pieces like in the first picture posted.

Granite 944

Totally agree.......except......

"Mine also only has 1 O-ring that is at the top. It is one piece not in 2 pieces like in the first picture posted"

Thats only because it was never taken apart. There is a spring and O-ring in there. I think? Not 100 % sure on the early one, since I've never tried to seperate the one I have. But, the parts book do show 2 each O-rings even for the early replacement valves. Or is this chart only really showing the "later" '87 and later, valve?

Charlie

Ken,
I agree, there is probably 2 O-rings, one at the top and one at the bottom. Having never had mine apart I have not seen the bottom one.
I'm curious, how do you take it apart and but it back together. When I was having oil pressure problems I took mine out several times, it all came out as one piece.
I wonder if Jeff's is all one piece.

jmporsche944

I really cant remember now if the begining of the threads were tapered. I hope they didnt send me the wrong valve. Would this be causeing the resistance? The part number on the bag was correct, but I guess that doesnt mean much does it. Well see. Thanks for the replys.