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Stripped camshaft retaining collor bolt(cheesehead)

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Old 11-09-2005, 07:18 AM
  #16  
WhoDak
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I've been in the slow process of trying to track one down here, but in Ohio. I found a few sets on ebay, some specialty online tool dealers, but I haven't found them anywhere in a walk in store. Most people have no idea what I'm talking about, they give me the "torx" thing too.
Old 11-09-2005, 02:44 PM
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Dal Heger
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Originally Posted by WhoDak
I've been in the slow process of trying to track one down here, but in Ohio. I found a few sets on ebay, some specialty online tool dealers, but I haven't found them anywhere in a walk in store. Most people have no idea what I'm talking about, they give me the "torx" thing too.
Yea, most people are clueless, but then again, what do you expect?

Take a look, google search for SK triple square.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03093.html

That's just one that comes up. I'd get the set (I have it - it's great). That price isn't too bad either.

update - search for SK 19704 in google (or froogle) that lists prices starting at $35 for the set.

Oh yea, don't cheap out on these bits, you'll regret not getting good ones (like the SK)

Dal.
Old 11-09-2005, 04:41 PM
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Easy now folks - don't go off on a tangent here but there were two types of these bolts over the years. The original was replaced with the 12-point and while one is doing anything with regard to the CAM itself, do NOT allow the cam pulley to move more than a couple of degrees less you want to worry about valves. For Christ's sake, do it by hand and not with an impact wrench as you may shear the bastard off in the cam. Right tool for the right job is as accurate as you can get. Heck, check my avatar...
Old 11-09-2005, 09:11 PM
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Granite 944
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Originally Posted by Dal Heger
We were. The drill bits were that bad.


I'm happy that I inherited my father's drill bits. He was a machinist/toolmaker, he had the most awesome set of tools! I never had a problem drilling anything out with that set of bits. There is a difference in quality!!!

Dal.
Yep, your right, I've found that out myself over the years also. Some chinese copy/cheap stuff is made out of inferrior metal, and won't stay sharp very long at all, thus shot almost immediately. The quickest way to dull any drill bit on steel is to drill at a high speed. It will ruin the bit in a hurry, and require re-sharpening. Fast speed for alluminum, and slow for steel. Sounds like you already know that though!

I've purchased my set of cheesehead bolt tools from either a Napa or a Shucks auto parts store. It was not call a "triple square" set. It was labeled and called a "12 pt. serrated, internal wrench set". What it amounts to is a set of bits, that have the 12 pt. "triple square" bit on one end, and a 13mm allen on the back end. I would prefer to have the socket set in 1/2" drive for this, but, haven't gotten around to buying them yet. I haven't needed to. This set has worked just fine for me, so far. Note: You also WANT to invest in a real good, 1/2" drive, 17mm allen socket, for removing/installing the plugs on the transaxle. Those cheapie 17mm VW drain plug socket things at those stores, are a waste of money, IMHO. You'll be replacing those plugs.
Old 11-09-2005, 09:25 PM
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When you go into stores do you ask for cheeseheads? It is a common misconception, but the technical term is triple square or 12 point internal. Cheesehead is just a common term for anything with a smooth, round circumference(i.e. hex, triple square, or torx). I got my triple square bits from Pep Boys (set of four for ~$15).
Old 11-09-2005, 09:58 PM
  #21  
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I call them triple square bits, and nobody knows what I'm talking about.
I bought 2 cheap sets of the Lisle ones at Partsource, and they're nothing short of crap. I've had them replaced more times than I can count, and once I lost the receipt, so I had to buy a second set, and now I have 2 rounded off sets...
Old 11-09-2005, 11:35 PM
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75ohm
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And that's precisely why I hit up the local Snap-on guy... sure, it cost me 32 bucks but I've had nothing but precision from it.
Old 11-10-2005, 10:56 PM
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i think i might just have to take the cam cover off to drill this bugger out.theres no room to drill with the cover on.tho,theres that 90 degree adapter,i cant seem to find it anywhere locally.is it easy to remove the cam cover?any specially tools?thanx
Old 11-10-2005, 11:12 PM
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75ohm, that's exactly why I'm buying a snap-on set this spring
Old 11-10-2005, 11:15 PM
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nine-44
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Autozone had the bits, whatever you call them. triple square, 12pt allen, cheeze head

They come in a 4 bit set for about 15 bucks..
Old 11-11-2005, 12:02 AM
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I've found "cobalt" drill bits to melt like butter through bolts like this. Everything else is like trying to drill with a Q-tip. Snap-on has good triple square bits. Harbor Freight has a cheaper alternative.
Old 11-11-2005, 01:09 AM
  #27  
shortyboy
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ive got the bit,i got em at napa for $6.it does come with a socket,but you fit it into a 13mm socket.man,i wish i knew napa had it before stripping the damn thing.everyones reccomending cobalt drill bits for the job,so cobalt it is.
Old 11-11-2005, 07:53 AM
  #28  
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I checked at my local NAPA and they'd never heard of it, I'll check autozone Andy, would you guys think that Harbor Freight or Autozone would have the better bit? Both of those are pretty close to me.
Old 11-12-2005, 07:52 AM
  #29  
shortyboy
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btw,that damn woodruff key on the crank doesnt wanna budge.anyone got any tips or trix?
Old 11-12-2005, 09:14 AM
  #30  
joseph mitro
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i had to pry it out with a punch and hammer. spray it with some PB blaster or something first


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