Ghost944

ok, so i know my cvs need to be replaced/ repacked, for a little while they like to click only after a looonnnggg day of driving, and when its happened i park it immediatly. the next day its like its brand new. (i assume this is because theyve cooled down) but now i hear something new
while driving even for the first time in a day, there is kind of a faint, pulsing hum from the same wheel with the bad cv, i know that usually hum=wheelbearing but wouldnt it be constant, and not a pulse? or is it just that bad cv getting ready to click at me and tell me she wants to go home?
so what im sayin is, should i order my new cvs or should i order new cvs and a new bearing?

Ghost944

bump, i need to know whats goin on soon, this is my daily driver and i plan on driving it tonight and want to be sure my car is not going to erupt in flames or anything.

Waterguy

When my rear wheel bearing went out it made a pulsing hum that only occurred at speeds over 30 mph. It got worse rapidly, but I drove it quite a while when it was making that noise.

If you have a late model 944 with aluminum trailing arms (85.5 or newer), you should consider ordering the wheel bearing removal/installation tool from Bruce Arnn . I have done wheel bearings with and without this tool, and I highly recommend WITH.

Chris_924s

Hum/ squeal/ screech. Wheel bearings.
CV's are a click that turns to a louder clack with tire rpm.

xsboost90

i have a set of early axels- $30 each.

Chwatson

I'm having the same problem right now... Had a torn boot, started clicking, started making a very scary cracking sound, ordered a rebuilt half-shaft, installed it.

Now the problem is that I get a rumble of sorts (rapid at high speed, decreases with speed, sound to wheel revolution ratio sounds even), but it only happens when the clutch is in and the car is decelerating from above about 40, or when I apply just enough throttle at that speed so that there isn't much engine braking, and the car is just lightly slowing. Now, it also only happens if you have the car going straight or turning right. If you turn left a little, the sound stops for as long as your turned. It sounds like a loose wheel, but I've checked all the lugs. Did I get a bad axle? PS It was the driver's side that was bad. The CV bolts all look good to me....

Chwatson

To steal the other poster's description, this, too, is a pulsing hum

Spidey944

Wheel bearing noises will normaly get faster as you get faster, even causing a resonance (sp?) of sorts, you call it a pulsing. As the weight shifts from one side of the bearing to the other, the noise may go away, and come back during an easy ess manuver on the street.

Also badly chopped tires can sound similar. Damn my spelling sucks today.

Keithr726

I had both happen to me last week. Clicking CVs all the time, solved for now by a repack. Now I need to do rear wheel bearings, which I have receipts for being done 4 years ago. And yes I only get the noise only over about 30 MPH.

Chwatson

are the bearings as hard to replace as i hear? and do they pose any problems if you let them be for a while? lastly, if you don't mind me asking, what was your bill for the bearings?

JimV8

Thats what happens when your ***** start rattling. No amount of grease is going to fix that.

nuszmd

I am a new addition to rennlist. I am going to follow your post. I just picked up an '85 944 and within one day started getting a rubbing/scratching sound from the left rear wheel. It was light the first day, then got worse the last two days. It seems to stop occasionally after turning a corner, but comes back very soon. I just ordered new wheel bearings from Pelican - cost about $50/side so $100 to do both rear wheels for both the inner and outer bearings. I read up on what it takes to change them, and I am not looking forward to it. Sounds like it will be a chore to break those axle nuts free. I have looked at the step by step procedure on Clark's Garage (great site), and read a bunch of what folks have been saying on Rennlist. Good luck, and I'll let you know through this thread how my issue turns out in a week or so after I get the parts and change them.

yellowline

Get a seal puller if you do the job. Then if you have a way to torque the axle nut to 350 ft-#, it's not hard at all.

Do not buy bearings from Pelican Parts; they do not fit correctly.

F18Rep

I think we need a few more details to back this up, it doesn't seem right from the little I know about Pelican...Bruce

crooster

I also used the Arnnworx tool and it made the bearing replacement a snap. The hard part was getting the axle nut free. I broke a couple of L handles and sockets before I got one loose. I used an old shifter kart axle for extra leverage. Get the biggest, strongest L handle you can find!