No start, no sell...
12-07-2006, 05:29 PM
#76
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I'd look at fuel pressure and delivery next. Get a mechanical pressure guage to install on the end of the fuel rail to check the pressure. Most auto parts stores will lend you one for a deposit.
You can also check fuel pump delivery rate. There's a proceedure and specs on Clarks.
Prime suspects for fuel delivery problems would be fuel filter, pressure regulator and damper, and fuel pump.
Did you ever try running it on starting fluid?
You can also check fuel pump delivery rate. There's a proceedure and specs on Clarks.
Prime suspects for fuel delivery problems would be fuel filter, pressure regulator and damper, and fuel pump.
Did you ever try running it on starting fluid?
12-07-2006, 09:26 PM
#77
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Yes, "runs" on starting fluid.
Fuel flow and pressure checked fine earlier -
I'm going to jump the DME/Fuel Pump relay again for fun.
Also, bipass the alarm system again for fun
We have got to be getting close
Fuel flow and pressure checked fine earlier -
I'm going to jump the DME/Fuel Pump relay again for fun.
Also, bipass the alarm system again for fun
We have got to be getting close
12-07-2006, 10:05 PM
#78
Steve, first things first, you verified the gap on the new ref sensors, right? Second, I can provide a DME to try, along with a known working AFM. Since the car was running and then wouldn't start, I am suspecting something along those lines.
Let me know if you want to borrow components.
Regards,
Let me know if you want to borrow components.
Regards,
12-07-2006, 10:41 PM
#79
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Verify the gap? Nope, I did measure the new ones against the old, they are identical. And the old ones were set perfectly, car ran fine until this dump. Also, there is not any adjustment to be made anymore, but we do not have to bring that up....
The AFM on the car was tested and it is AOK.
I did find the ground on the top of the bellhousing was suspect - OK, loose. It was moved to the back of the head - could a bad ground ruin the DME?
DME - I would like to try the DME -
How can we expedite this venture? I am more than willing to pay postage, priority mail ROCKS!
I'm PM'ing you now - THANKS!
The AFM on the car was tested and it is AOK.
I did find the ground on the top of the bellhousing was suspect - OK, loose. It was moved to the back of the head - could a bad ground ruin the DME?
DME - I would like to try the DME -
How can we expedite this venture? I am more than willing to pay postage, priority mail ROCKS!
I'm PM'ing you now - THANKS!
12-07-2006, 10:54 PM
#80
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12-08-2006, 01:10 PM
#81
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With the battery disconnected and the injector connections removed can you take ohmeter readings and check for continuity between the front pins on the harness? Rear pins?
Hey,have you tried removing the injector bank and injectors as a unit and then cranking the engine to see if they all squirt? (4, 10mm bolts, a little wiggling and 1/2 hour tops)
Hey,have you tried removing the injector bank and injectors as a unit and then cranking the engine to see if they all squirt? (4, 10mm bolts, a little wiggling and 1/2 hour tops)
12-08-2006, 04:10 PM
#83
Some disconnected grounds will fry a DME instantly, not sure about the bellhousing ground, though. Any reason you can't reconnect the bellhousing ground? I don't know why, but letting the bellhousing float worries me (unpredictable). And see how the mounting holes for the sensors are now gold plated? That tells me they care about that electrical connection which is supposed to be ground, maybe just to ground the harness shield. Just some ramblings of an old electrical engieer...
12-08-2006, 08:43 PM
#84
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I could probably not hurt anything by installing an extra ground or two - the ground on the top of the bellhousing is probably not one of my first choices, as it is a PIA to get too.
I'm going to check those -
I'm going to check those -
12-08-2006, 10:50 PM
#86
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Nope, ground wire now runs to the head.
The nut on the stud on the top of the bellhousing would not tighten for some reason. And it is a total PIA to try and get to, so that is not happening.
If I ground the bell housing, it will be in a different location - might bring my meter home tomorrow and do some testing, pretty sure that is not an issue at this point.
The nut on the stud on the top of the bellhousing would not tighten for some reason. And it is a total PIA to try and get to, so that is not happening.
If I ground the bell housing, it will be in a different location - might bring my meter home tomorrow and do some testing, pretty sure that is not an issue at this point.
12-09-2006, 12:49 AM
#87
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Yo Steve,
Got that DME relay yet ? AM I going to have to come up to St JO and kick your a$$ ? Candy wants to see the new paint so let's get this sucker running !
Got that DME relay yet ? AM I going to have to come up to St JO and kick your a$$ ? Candy wants to see the new paint so let's get this sucker running !
12-09-2006, 12:54 AM
#88
Hey Man
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Originally Posted by MY83944
Nope, ground wire now runs to the head.
The nut on the stud on the top of the bellhousing would not tighten for some reason. And it is a total PIA to try and get to, so that is not happening.
If I ground the bell housing, it will be in a different location - might bring my meter home tomorrow and do some testing, pretty sure that is not an issue at this point.
The nut on the stud on the top of the bellhousing would not tighten for some reason. And it is a total PIA to try and get to, so that is not happening.
If I ground the bell housing, it will be in a different location - might bring my meter home tomorrow and do some testing, pretty sure that is not an issue at this point.
You might see if you can extend the ground directly to a starter mounting bolt. It definitely makes a lower resistance ground for starting than the head.
12-09-2006, 12:54 AM
#89
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Oh yea, have you removed the big nut on the end of the fuel rail to see if there is fuel in the rail ? Remove the fuse to the fuel pump and crank the engine over a few times before trying this. I use an aluminum pie pan to catch any fuel that might come out when the nut is loosened. It takes either a 19mm or 21 mm wrench (flare nut wrench if you got it) Could also remove the negative battery cable for "spark" control ... 8^}
12-09-2006, 12:55 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by Der Cupmeister
Oh yea, have you removed the big nut on the end of the fuel rail to see if there is fuel in the rail ? Remove the fuse to the fuel pump and crank the engine over a few times before trying this. I use an aluminum pie pan to catch any fuel that might come out when the nut is loosened. It takes either a 19mm or 21 mm wrench (flare nut wrench if you got it) Could also remove the negative battery cable for "spark" control ... 8^}
