Replacing 1984 944 idle control air valve?
#1
Replacing 1984 944 idle control air valve?
I have not found any info in my book about replacing my idle control air valve. I got one from a junk yard and can't find mine on my engine but was told mine was bad by local import shop. I know it is around the intake but yet to have locate it. Do not I need to remove my intake to get to this part? Also does anyone have the bosch part number for this part as i am wondering if the junk yard din't sell me the wrong one? Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Burning Brakes
The idle control valve is directly below the intake manifold, you should be able to see it by peering through the gaps. Your car should be having reving problems, like unstable and unprovoked reving and your idle should be higher than the usual 900 rpm, if it truly is your idle control valve. When mine started bothering me I was able to squirt WD-40 in there, and it cleared it up for awhile, but the problem came back, so I took the intake manifold off and put a new one on and no problems since.
#4
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On an '84 na the "Idle Control Valve" is actually called the Auxiliary Air Regulator. It is located under the intake manifold in the same place the "Idle Control Valve" is located on the newer models. It is a primitive version of the ICV.
#6
Hitsquad Ninja
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It's underneath the pipes of the intake manifold. Once you see it, it's pretty straightforward to replace it. Just unbuckling a few clamps and all. Good luck.
#7
Not Special
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Excuse the stupid question...intake manifold is all the black tubing from the air filter to the controller box to the throttle body, right?
If I do get the part and do it myself, are we talking a few hundred bucks, or cheaper?
The diagrams I have leave much to be desired...and don't really cover this part o' the engine.
If I do get the part and do it myself, are we talking a few hundred bucks, or cheaper?
The diagrams I have leave much to be desired...and don't really cover this part o' the engine.
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#8
the intake manifold is that big metal thing on the top of the engine that connects to the top of the cylinders to feed them air. the other end is connected to the back of the Throttle body...
ISV for a late one, mines an 88, is part number 930-606-161-00 and its about 180 bones, new. i got a used one but after learning the full "while your in there list" i broke down and just bought a new one for peace of mind.
Im not even sure mines bad, i have a bit of a 50 RPM hunt when my car is cold, otherwise its smooth when its warm and revs fine. But im going to dig in, replace what i can and see what the outcome is.
The fuel rail and intake is all on clarks garage. im by no means "experienced" but i did go to home depot and buy a LARGE fire extinguisher to keep nearby while i undertake this job...
the fuel rail needs to come off, then the intake needs to come off. once its off you'll have easy acess to a lot of stuff that you normally cant get to...
what you will need if your ONLY going to replace the ISV is a new set of intake gaskets at a minimum, torque wrenches and other basic tools for the job.
just as an FYI, my list of stuff to replace when i get mine off is going to be:
- injector seals (since the rail is coming out)
- possibly send the injectors out for cleaning
- fuel lines (you'll be taking these off anyways)
- large rubber vac hoses that go to ISV, in and out, and to the Air oil separator (3 large lines)
- buy a vac line kit (lindsey) to replace what smaller vac lines you'll now have access too while the intake is off
- lots of hose clamps
- i was told its a good time to do the heater control valve while your there
- this would also be a good time to replace the oill filler neck seals at the block because your only about three bolts away. (i ordered a set but mines not leaking so the jurys out on this one)
and thats it! bolt it all back together it should run the same or better!
the last of my parts should be getting here in a week and a half when i do this, im going to post a thread about it at PP site. like i said, my skills are slow and limited, i can follow directions closely, thats about it.
the scariest thing about all this was reading about the guy who pulled his fuel rail, then two days later while driving around he roasted his car, most likely to a fuel line breaking. reading that stuff makes me want to live with the 50 rpm hunt. but what fun is that?
ISV for a late one, mines an 88, is part number 930-606-161-00 and its about 180 bones, new. i got a used one but after learning the full "while your in there list" i broke down and just bought a new one for peace of mind.
Im not even sure mines bad, i have a bit of a 50 RPM hunt when my car is cold, otherwise its smooth when its warm and revs fine. But im going to dig in, replace what i can and see what the outcome is.
The fuel rail and intake is all on clarks garage. im by no means "experienced" but i did go to home depot and buy a LARGE fire extinguisher to keep nearby while i undertake this job...
the fuel rail needs to come off, then the intake needs to come off. once its off you'll have easy acess to a lot of stuff that you normally cant get to...
what you will need if your ONLY going to replace the ISV is a new set of intake gaskets at a minimum, torque wrenches and other basic tools for the job.
just as an FYI, my list of stuff to replace when i get mine off is going to be:
- injector seals (since the rail is coming out)
- possibly send the injectors out for cleaning
- fuel lines (you'll be taking these off anyways)
- large rubber vac hoses that go to ISV, in and out, and to the Air oil separator (3 large lines)
- buy a vac line kit (lindsey) to replace what smaller vac lines you'll now have access too while the intake is off
- lots of hose clamps
- i was told its a good time to do the heater control valve while your there
- this would also be a good time to replace the oill filler neck seals at the block because your only about three bolts away. (i ordered a set but mines not leaking so the jurys out on this one)
and thats it! bolt it all back together it should run the same or better!
the last of my parts should be getting here in a week and a half when i do this, im going to post a thread about it at PP site. like i said, my skills are slow and limited, i can follow directions closely, thats about it.
the scariest thing about all this was reading about the guy who pulled his fuel rail, then two days later while driving around he roasted his car, most likely to a fuel line breaking. reading that stuff makes me want to live with the 50 rpm hunt. but what fun is that?
#9
Not Special
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Oy. We'll see what happens if I wait until summer (not that I truly think it's seasonal, but it was fine until it got cold). That list was a little scary, EMB! I'll keep an eye out for your PP thread.
#10
Rennlist Member
Porsche really overcharges its customers for an otherwise pretty common part that is cross-referenced in a bunch of Euro cars. I guess the problem still exists because you can't get parts for most of these Euro cars in the U.S. anyway, though. Here's a list of cars that carry the same Idle Control Valve from Bosch:
Alfa Romeo
33 1.5 i
1.7i
145 1.6i
Renault
Alpine
CLIO I (B/C57_, 5/357_) - Williams (B/C57M)
RENAU - 19 I Cabriolet (D53_) - 1.7
07.91-04.92 - 70 95
1721
RENAU - 19 I Cabriolet (D53_) - 1.8 16V (D53D)
07.91-04.92 - 101 137
1764
RENAU - 19 II (B/C53_) - 1.7 (B/C53C)
04.92-12.95 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 19 II (B/C53_) - 1.8 16V (B/C53D)
04.92-12.95 - 99 135
1764
RENAU - 19 II Chamade (L53_) - 1.8 16V (L53D)
04.92-12.95 - 99 135
1764
RENAU - 19 II Cabriolet (D53_, 853_) - 1.7 (D53C)
04.92-09.93 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 19 II Cabriolet (D53_, 853_) - 1.8 16V (D53D)
04.92-06.96 -12.95 99 135
1764
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 1.7 (B48E)
09.89-06.94 -12.93 66 90
1721
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.0 (B48C)
09.89-12.93 06.90- 88 120
1995
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.2 (B48K)
09.89-06.94 -12.93 79 107
2165
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.2 4x4 (B48K)
07.90-06.94 -12.93 79 107
2165
RENAU - 21 Sedán (L48_) - 1.7 (L48E)
09.89-02.94 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 21 Sedán (L48_) - 1.7 (L48E)
03.86-02.94 - 69 94
1721
Citroën
BX 1.9i
XM 2.0 i
3.0v6
Lancia
THEMA (834) - 2850 V6 i.e. (834AD, 834CD, 83...
Peugeot
309 gti 1.9i
Other Porsche models:
PORSCHE- 911 Convertible - 3.1 SC Carrera
PORSC - 924 - 2.5 S
PORSC - 944 - 2.5
PORSC - 944 - 2.5 Turbo
PORSC - 959 - 2.8
Alfa Romeo
33 1.5 i
1.7i
145 1.6i
Renault
Alpine
CLIO I (B/C57_, 5/357_) - Williams (B/C57M)
RENAU - 19 I Cabriolet (D53_) - 1.7
07.91-04.92 - 70 95
1721
RENAU - 19 I Cabriolet (D53_) - 1.8 16V (D53D)
07.91-04.92 - 101 137
1764
RENAU - 19 II (B/C53_) - 1.7 (B/C53C)
04.92-12.95 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 19 II (B/C53_) - 1.8 16V (B/C53D)
04.92-12.95 - 99 135
1764
RENAU - 19 II Chamade (L53_) - 1.8 16V (L53D)
04.92-12.95 - 99 135
1764
RENAU - 19 II Cabriolet (D53_, 853_) - 1.7 (D53C)
04.92-09.93 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 19 II Cabriolet (D53_, 853_) - 1.8 16V (D53D)
04.92-06.96 -12.95 99 135
1764
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 1.7 (B48E)
09.89-06.94 -12.93 66 90
1721
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.0 (B48C)
09.89-12.93 06.90- 88 120
1995
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.2 (B48K)
09.89-06.94 -12.93 79 107
2165
RENAU - 21 (B48_) - 2.2 4x4 (B48K)
07.90-06.94 -12.93 79 107
2165
RENAU - 21 Sedán (L48_) - 1.7 (L48E)
09.89-02.94 - 66 90
1721
RENAU - 21 Sedán (L48_) - 1.7 (L48E)
03.86-02.94 - 69 94
1721
Citroën
BX 1.9i
XM 2.0 i
3.0v6
Lancia
THEMA (834) - 2850 V6 i.e. (834AD, 834CD, 83...
Peugeot
309 gti 1.9i
Other Porsche models:
PORSCHE- 911 Convertible - 3.1 SC Carrera
PORSC - 924 - 2.5 S
PORSC - 944 - 2.5
PORSC - 944 - 2.5 Turbo
PORSC - 959 - 2.8
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shredcrimson (12-10-2021)
#14
*Pretty* sure that all 1985 and 1984 isv's are all the same. Just get a mirror and a flashlight and look up the porsche or bosch number.
I have a 1984 isv. Turns out my old one works fine. Pm me for details if anyone wants it. As for the replacement all i did was replace
-injector orings
-intake gaskets
-Lindsey Racing silicone vacuum tube it
-Used ISV
All this for about 50 bucks. would have been cheaper if i knew my ISV was good. My car runs soo much smoother with the new vacuum lines, i would say that this is the best performance mod for an NA.
I have a 1984 isv. Turns out my old one works fine. Pm me for details if anyone wants it. As for the replacement all i did was replace
-injector orings
-intake gaskets
-Lindsey Racing silicone vacuum tube it
-Used ISV
All this for about 50 bucks. would have been cheaper if i knew my ISV was good. My car runs soo much smoother with the new vacuum lines, i would say that this is the best performance mod for an NA.