Help! Newb Questions, Want to get 944 back on road
#1
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Luft's 944 Restoration and Maintinance Thread
Hi Everyone, I just wanted to introduce myself and ask a few questions, maybe some of you could help me out. My names Erik, Im from Oxford Ohio which is right north of the 275 Cincy loop. Im into Fieros and Cavaliers, I have an 88 coupe as well as an 03 Cav, done a lot of work to them like Koni Supsension, etc etc.
Im posting on here because my father has a early 85 944 we want to get out of the garage, I am selling my Fiero and he as pretty much giving me the 944 if I get it out of the garage.
The Good, The car has been kept in tip top maintenance by Northlands here in Cincy, It has about 120k on it, just had a new clutch installed and everything else the book recommends.
The Bad, it has been sitting in a garage for 4 years and not started, just rolled around periodically by me hoping to keep the tires from dry rotting (not my decision but not my house or car either)
I know it needs a timing belt, probably a water pump, Im sure it has bad gas, all the fluid replaced, new plugs and tuneup as long as the motor is not seized, but I hope not. Maybe more I don't know?
The question is should I take this back to Nortlands and invest ~2k and have all that done, or are there better options? The most motor work I have done is several swaps and head gaskets. But nothing more internal than that, so Im not sure I feel comfortable doing what needs to be done to it, and I have Zero experience working on the vehicle.
I want to make the vehicle the daily driver, and it holds some sentimental value because I grew up with it and I would hate to see it given away.
What do you guys think? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Im posting on here because my father has a early 85 944 we want to get out of the garage, I am selling my Fiero and he as pretty much giving me the 944 if I get it out of the garage.
The Good, The car has been kept in tip top maintenance by Northlands here in Cincy, It has about 120k on it, just had a new clutch installed and everything else the book recommends.
The Bad, it has been sitting in a garage for 4 years and not started, just rolled around periodically by me hoping to keep the tires from dry rotting (not my decision but not my house or car either)
I know it needs a timing belt, probably a water pump, Im sure it has bad gas, all the fluid replaced, new plugs and tuneup as long as the motor is not seized, but I hope not. Maybe more I don't know?
The question is should I take this back to Nortlands and invest ~2k and have all that done, or are there better options? The most motor work I have done is several swaps and head gaskets. But nothing more internal than that, so Im not sure I feel comfortable doing what needs to be done to it, and I have Zero experience working on the vehicle.
I want to make the vehicle the daily driver, and it holds some sentimental value because I grew up with it and I would hate to see it given away.
What do you guys think? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Last edited by luftpirate; 03-24-2012 at 08:07 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
lots of cincy rennlisters out here im sure a few could help you with the work. Get ahold of www.paragon-products.com and order some parts - they just came out w/ the timing belt and roller kit as well as water pump etc....get some parts and im sure it can be finished up quickly.
#3
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It's easy to do the timing belt and water pump if you have the right tools and a good set of instructions. Check out clarks-garage for really good repair and maintenance procedures.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
If you need special tools, try http://www.arnnworx.com/index.htm ... or ask people here. Often times we have the tool, and if someone local has what you need, why go and buy one?
When you change the oil, try putting 1/2 quart ATF in the engine - I've heard atf acts like a cleaning agent in engines. Run that for a day or two and change the oil again.
When you have the water pump off, you should also change all the front seals, which is not that hard but will add a few hours of work. You'll regret it if you skip it, though.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
If you need special tools, try http://www.arnnworx.com/index.htm ... or ask people here. Often times we have the tool, and if someone local has what you need, why go and buy one?
When you change the oil, try putting 1/2 quart ATF in the engine - I've heard atf acts like a cleaning agent in engines. Run that for a day or two and change the oil again.
When you have the water pump off, you should also change all the front seals, which is not that hard but will add a few hours of work. You'll regret it if you skip it, though.
#6
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Thread Starter
Miami Alumni, Im 25, Still live in Oxford and manage a computer store here. Ive seen a few other 944s around town, but not sure if they're rennlisters. Maybe we should have a get together before this Summer when our little town is taken over by all the angels for a few days
#7
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Im looking at these waterpumps on Paragon, and basically what Im reading is it is better to get the updated waterpump (even though I have a non-turbo 85 944) but on paragon they are selling the old pumps for my car, but I can use the turbo pump they have on my car (which is the newer style pump) but I just need to get a block off plate for it. Is that correct?
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#8
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Having just had my pump replaced, my understanding is that the new pumps are universal. For turbo applications, they require drilling out of "block off" plate, so that they are already set up for non-turbo applications. Is this correct?
#9
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I think it might depend on where the pump is coming from, the ones on Paragon are already drilled out, so you have to buy a blockoff plate, the ones they have specified for the NA 44s are the older style pumps, so if you want to get the newer one from them you need to buy the turbo pump and get the blockoff plate because its the newer style. Looks like Im about 650 bucks so far with parts, thats including plugs, filter, new front seals im guessing for timing cover, new water pump, rollers and everthing that goes with it, not sure if theres anything else mandatory now if Ive got the guts to get in there with a wrench. Hopefully in the next few weeks Ill be able to siphon the old gas out.
I found out tonight theres not pressure on the clutch, Which means maybe the clutch line needs bled? I need a Haynes manual now I guess, hopefully nothing is bad with the master cylinder or clutch lines.
I found out tonight theres not pressure on the clutch, Which means maybe the clutch line needs bled? I need a Haynes manual now I guess, hopefully nothing is bad with the master cylinder or clutch lines.
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Last count, I have done the same thing 9 times. Starting with a car that was in good running condtion when parked, is a very good thing. Also, you have a few very good Rennlist folks very close to you. They would be very glad to put another 44 back on the road. The first thing I do, is to spray wd-40 into the cyl to get the moisture out, and lube up the rings a bit. These blocks are not sleeved, and are easy to scratch the cyl. Sitting that long, some moisture has formed in the cyl, and got on the rings. If possible, drain the old gas out. Don't be surprised if the fuel pump is gummed up and will not turn. I have it happen to about half of the cars that I tow home. Do replace your front seals and belts and water pump. The slave and master on the clutch probley just need to be bleed, but will probley end up replacing later on. When you bleed the clutch, while you are there, flush out (bleed) all of the brakes also. After all that you should have a good daily driver.
I towed one home last year, that had been in a garage for 8yrs!!!! The tires were all flat, and you could here them peeling away from the floor when we pumped them up!!! Did as explained above, and the car is a great runner.
I towed one home last year, that had been in a garage for 8yrs!!!! The tires were all flat, and you could here them peeling away from the floor when we pumped them up!!! Did as explained above, and the car is a great runner.
#11
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All good suggestions above. I just went through getting a Mustang started that was under water for an hour or so. Pull the DME relay so you won't get fuel or spark. Spray WD40 in the cylinders while cranking with the plugs out. Do it long enough to get oil pressure showing on the gauge. Without the plugs it is much easier on everything while the oil is getting a chance to move around. I would probably disconnect the fuel filter and use the fuel pump to empty the tank, then install a new filter. A can of HEET would not be a bad idea with the fresh fuel, it will help get rid of any condensation.
Put new plugs back in and don't forget the DME relay. Don't crank for more than five or six seconds at a time, wait 15 seconds between tries, you don't want to overheat the starter.
Save your money on the Haynes manual, go to Clarks-garage as mentioned above.
Good luck,
Lou
Put new plugs back in and don't forget the DME relay. Don't crank for more than five or six seconds at a time, wait 15 seconds between tries, you don't want to overheat the starter.
Save your money on the Haynes manual, go to Clarks-garage as mentioned above.
Good luck,
Lou
#12
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Welcome to the 'list! You might consider membership - it's the best $17 you'll ever spend. Tenacious_G, my son, is attending Miami and you probably know about the Porsches 2 Oxford event held in July each year.
#15
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Updates ......
Tonight purchased a Optima 34 battery, found out it fits but I need a longer ground wire and maybe new terminal ends? Blew out engine bay and plug holes with compressed air, removed plugs, got wd40 down in the cylinders without the damn straw falling into them, and got the plugs back in. Next step is to wait for my floor jack piece to come in so i can get it off the floor, get the battery cables and see if the fuel pump works well enough to drain the tank.
Its not has pretty as you would think, could use some paint but this year it will just have to do with getting buffed out really well once its under its own steam down the drive way.
Tonight purchased a Optima 34 battery, found out it fits but I need a longer ground wire and maybe new terminal ends? Blew out engine bay and plug holes with compressed air, removed plugs, got wd40 down in the cylinders without the damn straw falling into them, and got the plugs back in. Next step is to wait for my floor jack piece to come in so i can get it off the floor, get the battery cables and see if the fuel pump works well enough to drain the tank.
Its not has pretty as you would think, could use some paint but this year it will just have to do with getting buffed out really well once its under its own steam down the drive way.