Thinking of buying a welder...
02-20-2007, 12:38 PM
#16
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Miller Syncrowave 250 tig here, awsome welder!
Check on ebay. There is a guy in Indy that sells them all the time and has great prices. He throws in a lot of free stuff, ie.. welding wire/rod, collets etc..
Check on ebay. There is a guy in Indy that sells them all the time and has great prices. He throws in a lot of free stuff, ie.. welding wire/rod, collets etc..
02-20-2007, 01:59 PM
#17
Nissan Rulez
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Originally Posted by evil 944t
Miller Syncrowave 250 tig here, awsome welder!
Check on ebay. There is a guy in Indy that sells them all the time and has great prices. He throws in a lot of free stuff, ie.. welding wire/rod, collets etc..
Check on ebay. There is a guy in Indy that sells them all the time and has great prices. He throws in a lot of free stuff, ie.. welding wire/rod, collets etc..
02-20-2007, 04:04 PM
#18
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Try http://www.cyberweld.com/. I ordered a Millermatic 180 from them recently (as a X-mas present from my wife) and was quite pleased with the transaction.
I'll echo the sentiment that you should get the best/biggest welder you can afford since a good one will last you a long time, and definitely use gas shielding.
I'll echo the sentiment that you should get the best/biggest welder you can afford since a good one will last you a long time, and definitely use gas shielding.
02-20-2007, 04:22 PM
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Here's something of the Rennlist for welding. Lots of project pics from different machines, questions and answers from experienced professionals. I don't remember if you have to register to do searches, but it's free.
02-20-2007, 04:23 PM
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02-20-2007, 11:11 PM
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Welding exhausts is dirty, dangerous work. Most pipes are galvanized. Depostis in used pipe can be some nasty stuff. Be careful.
I have a Hobart 135. I also have a torch and a TIG I've never hooked up. In my opinion there are three "value points."
If you can't afford gas, buy a used AC/DC squawk box. It is more flexible than a wire feed and puts the flux where it should be- outside the rod. Used 220 single phase units are plentiful and cheap- you can get a lot of power for your money.
For MIG (there is no such thing as a "gasless" MIG) the larger "reputable" 115 volt units can do almost anything an automotive hobbyist needs to do. They just do it slower. To go 220 adds cost and doesn't add much value. Amost anyone can weld with a decent MIG and an auto-dark helmet.
The Hobart 135 has 4 power settings. These are "hard wired" transformer taps- each step adds/subtracts how many windings are active. Variable power circuits are more complex and less efficient- pick your poison.
I have not used TIG much. My father in law had a mold repair shop and had a 40 year head start. TIG's value is that it can weld more metals. I inherited Bud's equipment and have hundreds of pounds of rods covering 50+ alloys. The dirty little secret with TIG's is their appetite. Even the smallest need 80+ amps. My TIG isn't wired because I only have 60 amps in the garage and it needs 130 amps at 220. Variable power and high frequency arc starting are power hogs.
At one time, I was pretty good with a torch but not any more. If you have the time and talent, you can do almost anything with a gas set. It used to be inexpensive but acetylene is getting up their. In use, a torch and TIG are more alike than different with the TIG a bit more flexible and easier to use. On the other hand, a torch can heat things, cut things, shrink metal, light cigars, and doesn't stress the local power grid.
Have fun, be careful
Bill
Hope this helps,
Bill
I have a Hobart 135. I also have a torch and a TIG I've never hooked up. In my opinion there are three "value points."
If you can't afford gas, buy a used AC/DC squawk box. It is more flexible than a wire feed and puts the flux where it should be- outside the rod. Used 220 single phase units are plentiful and cheap- you can get a lot of power for your money.
For MIG (there is no such thing as a "gasless" MIG) the larger "reputable" 115 volt units can do almost anything an automotive hobbyist needs to do. They just do it slower. To go 220 adds cost and doesn't add much value. Amost anyone can weld with a decent MIG and an auto-dark helmet.
The Hobart 135 has 4 power settings. These are "hard wired" transformer taps- each step adds/subtracts how many windings are active. Variable power circuits are more complex and less efficient- pick your poison.
I have not used TIG much. My father in law had a mold repair shop and had a 40 year head start. TIG's value is that it can weld more metals. I inherited Bud's equipment and have hundreds of pounds of rods covering 50+ alloys. The dirty little secret with TIG's is their appetite. Even the smallest need 80+ amps. My TIG isn't wired because I only have 60 amps in the garage and it needs 130 amps at 220. Variable power and high frequency arc starting are power hogs.
At one time, I was pretty good with a torch but not any more. If you have the time and talent, you can do almost anything with a gas set. It used to be inexpensive but acetylene is getting up their. In use, a torch and TIG are more alike than different with the TIG a bit more flexible and easier to use. On the other hand, a torch can heat things, cut things, shrink metal, light cigars, and doesn't stress the local power grid.
Have fun, be careful
Bill
Hope this helps,
Bill
02-21-2007, 07:19 PM
#23
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I have a 330 miller tig and a small miller 110 mig both are great welders and have their advantages. the 110 is great when I need portable etc they work well for MS exhaust etc. I use the tig for header and chassis fab as well as aluminum With the midget around we have to have both. Buy a nice 110 mig and you'll be more than satisfied
