Strut comparison pictures
06-02-2007, 12:22 AM
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Strut comparison pictures
I'm about 2/3 through my 86 NA's front end. I've been gathering 86 turbo parts for a while- plan was to redo front end and upgrade brakes all at once. Unfortunately, fate stepped in as the suspension gods ate the passenger strut bottom slide bearing. The front looked like a dirt tracker with mega camber on the left front. It also made a heck of a racket.
I modified one of the turbo struts and installed it so I could get to work. I bought a set of Koni sport inserts for the original struts.
This picture shows the 86 Turbo Koni option, the NA standard strut, and the 1038S insert. The Koni body has internal threads for the top collar. Once assembled, the body is crimped to lock the parts. The NA strut has external threads and mating collar. They are no crimps. The strut body forms the ourter shock tube for the original shock so when you open it oil dumps. The Koni is sealed and slides inside once you remove the guts.
This picture shows a sealed strut and was found at:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...postid=3061573
Last picture shows spindle mounts for turbo and NA struts.
Turbo bolts are further apart than NA. Slot for turbo spindle is narrower than NA strut. I slotted the bottom hole and milled the slot wider to fit the spindle. I also had to trim the bottom back of the strut because it hit the aluminum A-arm anti-roll bar mount spigot. When I set the car down, I had a ton of toe out. The modified turbo strut moved the left wheel in. By adjusting the tie rod ends as to full-short, I lost most of it although the front tires ran real hot and the car was squirrelly as heck.
Hope this helps,
Bill
I modified one of the turbo struts and installed it so I could get to work. I bought a set of Koni sport inserts for the original struts.
This picture shows the 86 Turbo Koni option, the NA standard strut, and the 1038S insert. The Koni body has internal threads for the top collar. Once assembled, the body is crimped to lock the parts. The NA strut has external threads and mating collar. They are no crimps. The strut body forms the ourter shock tube for the original shock so when you open it oil dumps. The Koni is sealed and slides inside once you remove the guts.
This picture shows a sealed strut and was found at:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...postid=3061573
Last picture shows spindle mounts for turbo and NA struts.
Turbo bolts are further apart than NA. Slot for turbo spindle is narrower than NA strut. I slotted the bottom hole and milled the slot wider to fit the spindle. I also had to trim the bottom back of the strut because it hit the aluminum A-arm anti-roll bar mount spigot. When I set the car down, I had a ton of toe out. The modified turbo strut moved the left wheel in. By adjusting the tie rod ends as to full-short, I lost most of it although the front tires ran real hot and the car was squirrelly as heck.
Hope this helps,
Bill
06-02-2007, 10:27 AM
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I am not using the turbo Konis. I bought them as part of a package- two struts, "yellow dot" turbo springs, and top strut mounts. I had one iffy top mount and the springs would be a nice, although minimal, upgrade from the original white dots. Both struts are left side although I knew that going in.
These struts don't have a rebound adjustment ****- you have to take off the spring and adjust them like the rears.
Since I had to compress my timeline, I didn't have all the parts to convert to turbo brakes- I had struts and spindles. I butchered one of the struts to keep the car on the road- converted to right side use and slotted/milled to fit the NA spindle. Now that I've put new inserts in the old struts, I probably won't do the conversion. The lobster claws are good brakes, they just don't look as trick as the black turbo calipers.
I am replacing the cartridges, the ball joint seats and boots, the outer tie rod ends, the rack bellows, the front A-arm bushings (Weltmeister street poly) and most of the right side rubber which had softened after a power steering leak. I had a spare set of A-arms and chose to use the two best rear A-arm mounts for now- you have to stop somewhere. besides, they are easy to replace.
For the poly bushings, I mixed some graphite powder lock lubricant into some white lithium grease. No squeaks so far. I also drilled and tapped the arm for a grease fitting. i also sealed the aluminum arms with clear wheel enamel (while waiting for parts) so they'll stay cleaner.
I'm looking forward to getting back on the road.
Bill
These struts don't have a rebound adjustment ****- you have to take off the spring and adjust them like the rears.
Since I had to compress my timeline, I didn't have all the parts to convert to turbo brakes- I had struts and spindles. I butchered one of the struts to keep the car on the road- converted to right side use and slotted/milled to fit the NA spindle. Now that I've put new inserts in the old struts, I probably won't do the conversion. The lobster claws are good brakes, they just don't look as trick as the black turbo calipers.
I am replacing the cartridges, the ball joint seats and boots, the outer tie rod ends, the rack bellows, the front A-arm bushings (Weltmeister street poly) and most of the right side rubber which had softened after a power steering leak. I had a spare set of A-arms and chose to use the two best rear A-arm mounts for now- you have to stop somewhere. besides, they are easy to replace.
For the poly bushings, I mixed some graphite powder lock lubricant into some white lithium grease. No squeaks so far. I also drilled and tapped the arm for a grease fitting. i also sealed the aluminum arms with clear wheel enamel (while waiting for parts) so they'll stay cleaner.
I'm looking forward to getting back on the road.
Bill
