Slow cold cranking
#1
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Slow cold cranking
I've had my 87 S since '01 and every winter when the temps get down to the 20's or lower the car cranks verrrry slowly but always starts. During the winter I use Mobil 1 15/40 so I kinda wonder about trying to pump cold thick oil being a possibility.
After driving the car for even 5 minutes it cranks the same as a summer day.
After driving the car for even 5 minutes it cranks the same as a summer day.
#3
Proprietoristicly Refined
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Red/Green show-Starter Fluid and Duct Tape
Couldn't find you location on the map. Your oil is fine. Maybe the starter or selonoid has gotten gunked up and needs to be relubricated?
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S
#4
I've had my 87 S since '01 and every winter when the temps get down to the 20's or lower the car cranks verrrry slowly but always starts. During the winter I use Mobil 1 15/40 so I kinda wonder about trying to pump cold thick oil being a possibility.
After driving the car for even 5 minutes it cranks the same as a summer day.
After driving the car for even 5 minutes it cranks the same as a summer day.
When its down to the 20's???
UUUH, yeah, you got it.
Its cold.
#5
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My 84 944 and my 86 951 both did the same thing. I cleaned all grounds, ran new wire and have bought new batteries, all of those efforts yielded a slight if any improvement in cold cranking, but definately not like summer cranking. By the way, I am in south central PA.
A few weeks back the 84's starter crapped the bed and I bought new one, the same week it dipped down into the teens. I put the new starter in and the car cranked over like I have never heard or felt it crank before. I now only need to bump the ignition to start the car, as opposed to a sceond or two or three of cranking prior.
So I took the starter out and put it in the 951 and I had the same result, faster starts and it sounded like a new car turning over. And again, I only have to bump the ignition to start the car, no more cranking for seconds.
Just wanted to throw that out there.
YMMV
Tom
A few weeks back the 84's starter crapped the bed and I bought new one, the same week it dipped down into the teens. I put the new starter in and the car cranked over like I have never heard or felt it crank before. I now only need to bump the ignition to start the car, as opposed to a sceond or two or three of cranking prior.
So I took the starter out and put it in the 951 and I had the same result, faster starts and it sounded like a new car turning over. And again, I only have to bump the ignition to start the car, no more cranking for seconds.
Just wanted to throw that out there.
YMMV
Tom
#7
the SAE(society of automotive engineers) viscosity rating indicates resistance to flow. an oil designated say sae 40 has a higher viscosity , greater resistance to flow. than an oil desighated sae 30 while higher viscosity oils will offer greater protection they may be too thick and resistant to flow and may inhibit starting during cold weather . multi viscosity oils have additives that make them suitable for use over a wider temp. range . an oil rated 10w-30 offers flow characteristics of 10 at low temps. but the protection of 30 at operating temp. the W in the rating indicates that the oil is suitable for winter use. i would try using a 10 w-30 or 5w-30 . if the oil is too thick at cold start up then the valve train is not getting proper lubrication.
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#8
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Oil is a possible problem, but I think that you are overthinking it. The problem definetly lies with the starter or the electrical system somewhere. My car does the same thing, I pop it on the battery charger on the 10amp charging option and immeadeaty step into the car and it starts right up. This is probably because the battery voltage gets increased from 10 or 11 volts up to 14 for charging and helps make the starter function a little better. The 14volts iis either helping to fix bad contacts or a sticky solenoid, both of which can be repaired. Mine just hasnt really gotten bad enough to bother yet, and its not that cold in central Texas.
#9
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This is probably because the battery voltage gets increased from 10 or 11 volts up to 14
i wouldn't really recommend starting the car with the charger connected.
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This starter is 5 years old and about 80,000 miles on the car since.
I had O'Reilley's put their box on it and the charging system and starter showed OK... for what that's worth.
What's an allowable parasitic battery draw when the car is off?
#12
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it depends what the box did.
a decent machine can ck diodes, capacity of the alternator loaded, as though most accessories were on and charging rate.
the best test is with a fully charged batt and then a hi rate discharge test for 10 secs, not dropping below 9.6v.
.065a by clarks-garage test.
87951
a decent machine can ck diodes, capacity of the alternator loaded, as though most accessories were on and charging rate.
the best test is with a fully charged batt and then a hi rate discharge test for 10 secs, not dropping below 9.6v.
.065a by clarks-garage test.
87951
#13
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PHD info on Bosch Starter rebuild
triscadek, bearone may be asking me for the information with photos. Here is a good all around site if interested with pictures: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothrea...ostid=42115781.
John_AZ
John_AZ
Last edited by John_AZ; 12-30-2007 at 07:08 PM.