Test drove 1986 944 - have some questions
#16
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Would love to – I'm actually dying to, but I have a 2-month-old daughter so it's not the right time. Maybe next year; the 944's certainly up for it! Even a minor local gathering to share the joy (and occasional pain) would be nice.
Would love to – I'm actually dying to, but I have a 2-month-old daughter so it's not the right time. Maybe next year; the 944's certainly up for it! Even a minor local gathering to share the joy (and occasional pain) would be nice.
#17
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[per Mike C. in another thread] " ... If you get the rear end of the car up, with the transmission in neutral, pull the rubber plug that covers access to the drive shaft/tranny input shaft coupler. Reach in there and grab the coupler and try to rotate it in both directions. If you can rotate it a few degrees between stops, it means the rubber is sheared and is letting the 'limp home' tabs engage. "
I'm 1/2 way thru my first clutch job; I'm not a novice, but it has tested my patience.
#18
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Ok, thanks for the info guys! It came in pouring. John, I missed the part where you said that, sorry and thanks! Heck, I may tap into your brain for info if I ever need to.
Daryl, great link! Thanks for that!
If I were to replace the clutch, I'd do it myself over the course of a couple weekends. I'm going to go there on monday to do a compression test on it to check the health of the motor. I'll crawl under the car and inspect the clutch as well.
Daryl, great link! Thanks for that!
If I were to replace the clutch, I'd do it myself over the course of a couple weekends. I'm going to go there on monday to do a compression test on it to check the health of the motor. I'll crawl under the car and inspect the clutch as well.
read the FAQ
#20
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But, yes....he does need to read the FAQ.
And you know as well as I do that you can see a rubber clutch going bad if its already started. If he's got rubber shavings/marbles in the inspection hole when he measures the clutch disk wear, it's on its way out.
#21
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Hh asked about the high clutch pedal indicating a possibly worn clutch. That's what my message was in reply to.
But, yes....he does need to read the FAQ.
And you know as well as I do that you can see a rubber clutch going bad if its already started. If he's got rubber shavings/marbles in the inspection hole when he measures the clutch disk wear, it's on its way out.
But, yes....he does need to read the FAQ.
And you know as well as I do that you can see a rubber clutch going bad if its already started. If he's got rubber shavings/marbles in the inspection hole when he measures the clutch disk wear, it's on its way out.
and he does need to read the FAQ!
#23
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I'm guessing the seller wouldn't like that much.
EDIT: DO NOT DO THIS.
#24
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BTW, I'm in Livonia, MI. John, you asked earlier and I never answered.
PXJ800, your car looks great. Makes me want one even more. Cali guys are lucky.
DarylJ...thanks for the advice, but no way! I'd hurt someone if they tried that on my car.
PXJ800, your car looks great. Makes me want one even more. Cali guys are lucky.
DarylJ...thanks for the advice, but no way! I'd hurt someone if they tried that on my car.
#25
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lol...seriously though, unless you have records for the clutch change with a part number on it, I think the only way to know if its a rubber center in good shape would be with a bore scope. I'm not really as concerned as some other people are about a newish rubber center clutch. If it lasted 15 years before it went and someone put one in 5 years ago.....well......I'm OK with that. I'm going to assume I'll get another DECADE out of it if not beaten on.
#26
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He does have records but I haven't inspected them yet to see what the part number is. I will do that tomorrow when I go inspect the clutch with the link you provided and the advice from 944Ross. I wouldn't want to do that to the guys' car through, especially if I don't end up buying it. LOL!
#27
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and the one by the KCWS that makes much more sense, using 3m window weld. If I could find a reputable place that'll do it cheap, I'm likely to take it there and pay them.
I haven't driven mine in a few years because I have a little hatch delamination, should do the belts as a preventative maintenance, plus a few other small things... doing the hatch right seems quite the chore and I have too many other things going on.
If you want to buy wheels later, get an 87+. We early offset guys have very little choice.
#28
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Man oh man, this car is close to being mine. I'm just being rational and thinking things through. I've been known to impulse buy cars.
The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.
Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.
Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.
Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.
Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
#29
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Man oh man, this car is close to being mine. I'm just being rational and thinking things through. I've been known to impulse buy cars.
The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.
Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.
Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.
Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.
Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
2) Remember we are here for you, well here and there realy
3) Welcome to the best addiction you will ever have
#30
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Many thanks! This is a good forum with a good knowledge base. My main concern was parts availability and online info and that's no longer a concern. I've thought things through and I'm getting it. I'll post picks once it's mine.