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Test drove 1986 944 - have some questions

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Old 05-29-2009, 11:03 PM
  #16  
PXJ800
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Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
GOTO the fest next weekend, see enough to make you ill....
Would love to – I'm actually dying to, but I have a 2-month-old daughter so it's not the right time. Maybe next year; the 944's certainly up for it! Even a minor local gathering to share the joy (and occasional pain) would be nice.
Old 05-30-2009, 12:44 AM
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944Ross
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Originally Posted by FuelCutOff

If I were to replace the clutch, I'd do it myself over the course of a couple weekends. I'm going to go there on monday to do a compression test on it to check the health of the motor. I'll crawl under the car and inspect the clutch as well.
There is a very easy and pretty definitive test for a failed rubber clutch;

[per Mike C. in another thread] " ... If you get the rear end of the car up, with the transmission in neutral, pull the rubber plug that covers access to the drive shaft/tranny input shaft coupler. Reach in there and grab the coupler and try to rotate it in both directions. If you can rotate it a few degrees between stops, it means the rubber is sheared and is letting the 'limp home' tabs engage. "

I'm 1/2 way thru my first clutch job; I'm not a novice, but it has tested my patience.
Old 05-30-2009, 12:50 AM
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Tom R.
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Originally Posted by FuelCutOff
Ok, thanks for the info guys! It came in pouring. John, I missed the part where you said that, sorry and thanks! Heck, I may tap into your brain for info if I ever need to.

Daryl, great link! Thanks for that!

If I were to replace the clutch, I'd do it myself over the course of a couple weekends. I'm going to go there on monday to do a compression test on it to check the health of the motor. I'll crawl under the car and inspect the clutch as well.
it isnt the friction material that fails. it is the rubber center that usually goes with plenty of friction material left. you cant see that.

read the FAQ
Old 05-30-2009, 01:03 AM
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Mighty Shilling
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Originally Posted by J Berk
On the subject of the clutch...it's the most expensive maint. item you can do on your car....it will cost you between $1000 and $1500 to replace a clutch if you pay a mechanic to do the work....so make sure you know what you're buying !
or more... I just had a Murphy clutch job on mine... everything went. disc, pressure plate, fork, slave cylinder, and torque tube... $1700 IN PARTS later...
Old 05-30-2009, 10:21 AM
  #20  
DarylJ
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Originally Posted by Tom R.
it isnt the friction material that fails. it is the rubber center that usually goes with plenty of friction material left. you cant see that.
Hh asked about the high clutch pedal indicating a possibly worn clutch. That's what my message was in reply to.

But, yes....he does need to read the FAQ.

And you know as well as I do that you can see a rubber clutch going bad if its already started. If he's got rubber shavings/marbles in the inspection hole when he measures the clutch disk wear, it's on its way out.
Old 05-30-2009, 03:06 PM
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Tom R.
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Originally Posted by DarylJ
Hh asked about the high clutch pedal indicating a possibly worn clutch. That's what my message was in reply to.

But, yes....he does need to read the FAQ.

And you know as well as I do that you can see a rubber clutch going bad if its already started. If he's got rubber shavings/marbles in the inspection hole when he measures the clutch disk wear, it's on its way out.
i was thinking more along the lines of it beginning to go. but yes, you are correct.

and he does need to read the FAQ!
Old 05-30-2009, 03:15 PM
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FuelCutOff
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I got the hints about the FAQ. I should know better. Thanks again.
Old 05-30-2009, 05:52 PM
  #23  
DarylJ
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Originally Posted by Tom R.
i was thinking more along the lines of it beginning to go. but yes, you are correct.
He can always put it in 5th with the parking brake on and see if he can get the crank bolt loose. If suddenly moves some and the he has 20 degrees of play or so bank and forth but the bolt isn't loose yet he's successfully diagnosed a rubber center clutch that was about to go.

I'm guessing the seller wouldn't like that much.

EDIT: DO NOT DO THIS.
Old 05-31-2009, 01:01 AM
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BTW, I'm in Livonia, MI. John, you asked earlier and I never answered.

PXJ800, your car looks great. Makes me want one even more. Cali guys are lucky.

DarylJ...thanks for the advice, but no way! I'd hurt someone if they tried that on my car.
Old 05-31-2009, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by FuelCutOff
DarylJ...thanks for the advice, but no way! I'd hurt someone if they tried that on my car.
lol...seriously though, unless you have records for the clutch change with a part number on it, I think the only way to know if its a rubber center in good shape would be with a bore scope. I'm not really as concerned as some other people are about a newish rubber center clutch. If it lasted 15 years before it went and someone put one in 5 years ago.....well......I'm OK with that. I'm going to assume I'll get another DECADE out of it if not beaten on.
Old 05-31-2009, 02:50 PM
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He does have records but I haven't inspected them yet to see what the part number is. I will do that tomorrow when I go inspect the clutch with the link you provided and the advice from 944Ross. I wouldn't want to do that to the guys' car through, especially if I don't end up buying it. LOL!
Old 06-01-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FuelCutOff
(3) Is the hatch leak easy to get fixed? I couldn't find much info but I found a DIY that was a bit risky for me to try.
There are a couple hatch reseal DIYs out there... one suggesting Krazy Glue
and the one by the KCWS that makes much more sense, using 3m window weld. If I could find a reputable place that'll do it cheap, I'm likely to take it there and pay them.

I haven't driven mine in a few years because I have a little hatch delamination, should do the belts as a preventative maintenance, plus a few other small things... doing the hatch right seems quite the chore and I have too many other things going on.

If you want to buy wheels later, get an 87+. We early offset guys have very little choice.
Old 06-01-2009, 10:17 PM
  #28  
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Man oh man, this car is close to being mine. I'm just being rational and thinking things through. I've been known to impulse buy cars.

The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.

Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.

Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
Old 06-01-2009, 11:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FuelCutOff
Man oh man, this car is close to being mine. I'm just being rational and thinking things through. I've been known to impulse buy cars.

The compression test went well. Numbers are 170, 170, 170, 165. Site says anything over 160 is good. Clutch had about 21.5mm left on it of the 34mm. I used a caliper to gauge the distance. It was 27/32 inches. I saw the receipt where the repair was done. It's not a rubber center clutch. Underbody looked really good. No rust except little on the stock exhaust and headers. Those will have to go.

Everything looks to check out. I test drove her again and pushed it this time. The car responded and sounded well. I'm at ease buying it. Should have it by Friday which is the earliest.

Guys, thanks a lot for the help. I really appreciate the advice.
1) Good Luck, sounds like you might have a decent representation
2) Remember we are here for you, well here and there realy
3) Welcome to the best addiction you will ever have
Old 06-02-2009, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
1) Good Luck, sounds like you might have a decent representation
2) Remember we are here for you, well here and there realy
3) Welcome to the best addiction you will ever have
Many thanks! This is a good forum with a good knowledge base. My main concern was parts availability and online info and that's no longer a concern. I've thought things through and I'm getting it. I'll post picks once it's mine.


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