jjs

I'm going to attempt to change my a/c compressor tonight. I'm not real sure what I'm gonna get into and would appreciate any knowledge or tips on the topic. The system isn't charged so I'm not too worried about the escaping freon. I suppose the new compressor (actually use, just new for me) should be oiled before installed. I was just going to take it to the auto part store and ask what type of oil I'll need to put in it. So if any of you can lend a helpful tip I'd appreciate it.

On another note. The reason I'm replacing the compressor is because the top of the "holes" that the bolt that holds the compressor to the engine goes through, broke off. First the front one broke and the bolt fell off. So the belt lost tension and brought it to my attention. I got a smaller bolt and just re-bolted the back one only. That lasted about a week and the back eye hole broke too. So I have a perfectly good compressor that has no way to be bolted to a car. If anyone has a use for it, let me know. And also, let me know if this has happened to anyone else. I don't know what could have caused this?

RPG951S

Pretty Easy. Just swapped compressors on my Turbo S (but I think they're all the same... mounts underneath the on the drivers side).

Simplified Instructions:

1. Jack up the car, as far as you can. Use Jack Stands!
2. On my TurboS (yours may be different) Remove the 2nd (from the front) underbelly tray. The front underbelly tray can stay. Remove the alternator cool-air hose. (you may not have this)
3. Get a 'feel' for the belt tension (try to turn the belt, see how much it will turn/ deflect under pressure... remember this for later!) Loosen the two locking nuts on the adjusting rod. Turn the rod all the way loose (you'll need the slack to get the belt off.)
4. Remove the two bolts for each hose connector. Pull out the hoses, move them out of the way.
5. Pivot the compessor, remove the belt
6. Remove the rear mounting bolt, remove the front mounting bolt
7. Pull down on the compessor to dislodge it. Carefull!..it's fairly heavy.

That's it for removal. I use locktite(blue) on the hose mounting bolts (as they are 'coated' from the factory)

1. To install, I used a small floor jack to guide it into place (otherwise... getting the mounting bolts started is a b!#@h if your alone. Easier with two people) Put in the front bolt first, then the rear, lightly tighten.
2. If you have problems getting the hose connections in, pivot it compessor around until they go in easy. Tighten the hose connection bolts snuggly.
3. Tighten both upper bolts (but make sure the compressor can still pivot a little.
4. Attach the adjusting rod and adjust to the same tension as before.
5. Re-install the alternator cool-air hose and the underbelly pan.

Took me in total 2.5 hours with no air tools. Using tools would probably take another .5 hours off the time. (but it was late, didn't want to disturb the wife!)

Good luck!

rfuerst

You did not mention if you are converting to R134A or R12.If you are converting,then you should replace the drier,its not a must but most people recommend it.When I converted mine to R134A,I used Ester oil.There is some debate in the industry as to which oil should be used,Ester or Pag.I went with Ester because most of the research I did said that Ester was more compatible with the old oil in the system.I could use your old compressor,I have a good compressor with a bad clutch.E-mail me privately if interested.Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

jjs

Thanks for your help guys... but I have another question. I'm going to have a shop evacuate and charge the system and possibly convert it to the cheaper freon, I got to check the prices first. The question is; can I just simply bolt the new compressor up there without oil or bothering with charging it? My understanding is that as long as there's no pressure in the system and I don't try turning the air on from inside the car the compressor will never engage. I can't drive the car right now because the alternator isn't turning, so I would only drive it like this till I can get to a shop to get it fixed up. Sound ok to you guys?

sam

You should be OK. The low pressure cutout switch should prevent engagement of the clutch.

If you are converting to R-134, you should consider replacement of receiver/drier (as said by someone else). I've converted 2 US models, but still have the R-12 in my P-Car.

Sasha

That's funny - same thing happend to me. Mount for the front whole broke off. My mother in law drove the car with belt loose and discharged the battery - big headache.

Anyways, I tried to weld it, it broke once I installed it. I looked into A/C compressors, used, junked, rebuilt, new and decided for the time being to make a braket that would hold a pulley. I think Pelican sells a similar braket, but at $150 I would rather make one myself. Which I did - from parts out of local home imrovement store. It held for at least 8 mo. now.

Since you have a compressor, you can mount it and that's true, it would never engage until you turn the switch on. To ensure that it dosn't, disconnect the control wire from the A/C clutch...

I wonder if it is a common problem or just happend to us?

Thanks.

Der Cupmeister

Make sure you tell the shop you take it to that the compressor is dry as it needs to be charged with the proper amount of oil. As others have said, replace the drier also. It too holds several ounces of oil that should go in before the system is charged.

HY M8NC

As a manufacturer's rep for Four Seasons-I 'll tell you "...when replacing a compressor, we recommend replacing orifice tube/expansion valve, receiver/drier or accumulator, flush the system with an approved flush, and add the proper type and amount of oil..." I know yada-yada they pay me to say that. We have seen a dramatic decrease in warranty when all these steps are followed. The modern Air conditioning system is just that-a system-it's all got to work together, or you'll be back under the car. It looks like the removal/installation has been outlined in this thread already.

If it's any help, the Four Seasons Tech Help line is 800.433.7508. They will answer any question you have-whether the compressor is their's or not.

Bill

One other area to consider is the sway bar conflict.

I have seen comments on sway bars that have snapped in two due to the AC compressor. The AC compressor used for our car, is also designed to be installed on other cars. As such, the compressor has some additional mounting tabs for this purpose. If you look, you will see one of the unused mounting tabs is located directly over the top and very close to the sway bar. What occurs is this, as the suspension moves, the compressor tab hits the sway bar. This eventually chips off the protective paint on the sway bar. The sway bar will then carrode weakening the sway bar. As the weakened metal continues to hit the compressors mount, and with the inhearent stresses that are imposed onto the sway bar, SNAP time for a new sway bar.

My bar has not snapped, but I can attest to the contact between the bar and the mount, as my paint on the bar is gone in that area. It may sound brutal but I took a sawsall to the unused mounting tab, and cut it off.

The last thing I need, is to loose my sway bar while hot footing it through a tight mountain twisty!