jtsporsche

First, one quick question, could this have anything to do with the sudden drop in temp. we have experienced here in Va.?

I know it's reccomended to replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and some hose. and i am planning to as long as i can afford it.
is this the part number to the hose i need? 951-423-189-01-M33
and pelican lists the Master Cylinder For Use With ATE Brake Booster, i assume i have an ATE brake booster??

ive also seen someone mention a paper gasket? what would this be?

thanks, justin

krazykarl

It's possible the cold temps made one of the seals inside the master or slave stiff allowing fluid to leak past. That's the right hose if you have an 85.5+ NA. Not sure why your brake booster would matter in purchasing a replacement clutch master cylinder. Pelican doesn't carry the paper gasket as far as I can tell, I ordered mine from paragon

jtsporsche

i have an '87 924S. i rechecked the site and it did specify its the part for me.

and idk but one says for use with ATE booster and another says with Girling booster?

what seals/gaskets could it be?
i should also mention that the fluid is just to the min. mark on the reservoir.

JohnKoaWood

Yes... your pedal problem is caused by the temperature change... Mine did the exact same thing...

If you have an ATE brake booster, there will be a label on it that says ATE... mine is..

I am debating trying to make it work for now, or just wait till next month and begin my winter parts replacement (rebuild engine, new brake and clutch masters, new clutch slave, new brake booster, paint, rear suspension)

I don't see my clutch pedal rebounding all of the sudden... but we will see as it is supposed to warm a bit this week...

krazykarl

Going by pelican's information, this is the part for your car.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...8%29%2C%20Each

jtsporsche

why not this?http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...1%29%2C%20Each

krazykarl

It says it may also fit the 924S so it would probably work then. I think the difference is the metal part of the pipe is shaped a bit different, but since the bottom half is flexible it works.

jtsporsche

johnkoawood, do you know exactley why the cold temps did this?

JohnKoaWood

As far as I can figure, the old rubber seals internal to the master cylinder don't like the cold weather... If we kept our cars in a garage it would probably help...

The cold dip middle of last week has managed to kill both my clutch and brakes...

Clutch pedal to the floor... never to return, brake pedal no compression... and no brakes....

I'm waiting to see if the warm weather this week returns them to prior function, but as of right now I'm holding out until I have a new contract in hand (next month) and then tearing my car apart for winter nap time... Sad thing is I just got it running after a MAF issue... and she was running good...

jtsporsche

id love to keep mine in a garage, but i cant. how easy would it be to replace the seals?

JohnKoaWood

There are rebuild kits available... just breathe and take your time...

I'm just planning on replacing everything... even debating rebuilding the calipers while at it so I can say the brakes have all new rubber bits!

If you can easily lay down and get under the dash I understand it isn't all that difficult to get to everything, but like I said, just take a deep breath and don't get in a hurry...and keep everything clean as it possibly can be...

Brian edge did a write up of a different approach to the clutch hose pieces.. I plan on using his write up (I like the appearance of SS braided lines in the engine bay!) and it allows for bleeding of the clutch from above....

http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12834

OH..also don't get brake fluid on your body panels, unless you need re-paint anyway..it is good at removing paint!

jtsporsche

roger on the brake fluid. it seems like it is one thing after another with this car, and i dont have time to fix one thing before something else goes wrong.
im trying not to get frustrated, but i cant take to much time, this is my dd.

ill check on rebuild kits later. i think ill try the cheapest fixes first since both jobs are slowing down right now till next year.

JohnKoaWood

DD? With no backup? Man you are brave...

I always have my Audi or my Truck... Honestly I would much rather drive one of my P-Cars, but as both don't want to cooperate... maybe I need to get the N/A fixed... it should be quicker to fix than the turbo..

I have been patching and praying to be able to make it to winter in the 951.. I see the writing on the wall... I need to take it down, fix everything right, so I can really enjoy her next year.... or she's gonna bleed me dry...

Always try the cheap easy fix first.... or replace everything...

I think I'm pulling all my glass and dash too this winter.... glass to get a proper paint job and dash so I can easily replace the AC evaporator and close up all teh dash cracks... she should be looking and running like new come spring!

Good luck, keep us posted...

jtsporsche

sounds like you gotta plan. when i bought this car, neither me or my parents (they who REALLY bought the car) knew how much it takes to maintain a porsche, let alone a 20+ year old porsche, so a spare dd was not in the whole scheme of things.

i do have an update which seems to push me toward believing the whole cold temp theory. while driving to and from work tonight, the pedal only stayed at the floor within the first few minutes of driving. think it possible that once the fluid starts being moved around things may get warm enough for it to work properly? the pedal still doesnt feel right, but its coming back by itself.

dmalo810

I just had this happen last week in a 924S. It was simple to fix and I found a rebuild kit at Oreilly Auto Parts for under $20.
It was the slave cylinder. I couldn't get it to bleed, so I took it off and ran compressed air in the feed line inlet. Boom, the cylinder blew open, shot the piston clear across the garage even with the bleeder screw completly removed. Thought "crap", now I have to buy a new one. But no, took 10 minutes to clean, rebuild, then reinslall, bled and ta-da, all repaired, works great! Doesn't leak either.
Not much different then rebuilding a brake caliper.
Your symptoms are exactly the problem I had. Not the master cylinder, but the slave.