thermostat
#3
What would be the risks, assuming one lived in an area that was warmer than colder (So-Cal) I'm having issues with mine and thinking about running without one and seeing how she does. But I don't want to damage the engine, as it's my daily driver.
#6
Nordschleife Master
Taking the thermostat out will make you engine run hotter, it's all about flow as xsboost90 said. The best way to describe it is that thermostat acts as a restrictor. Even when fully open it restricts the flow to the radiator slowing the flow and allowing the radiator to have time to cool. Without it the coolant would flow quickly through the radiator and back to the engine with little cooling. Also your fans would run more often as the sensor would see a consistently higher temp at the radiator. Another negative is that your engine would take longer to reach normal operating temperature when you first start the car. When your oil is cold it's not a good thing. The thermostat keeps the coolant out of the radiator on cold starts allowing the engine to get up to normal temperature quickly.
#7
Rennlist Member
For greater heat transfer, the higher the flow, the better. Turbulent flow has a significantly higher heat transfer coefficient than laminar flow, so high velocity is absolutely preferred, both for cooling the fluid going thru the heat exchanger (radiator) and for absorbing heat from the head/block.
If you look inside the water pump, behind the therm, you will see a rubber seal and some cavities/flow channels. When the therm is closed, the coolant recirculates thru the block. When the therm fully opens, it pushes the plunger up against that internal rubber seal and closes the recirculation path, so all the coolant is pushed thru the radiator. W/o the therm, the recirc path is never blocked off, so you get partial flow thru the radiator and partial recirculation.
No big deal to run w/o a therm for testing or for limited use, but if you are driving hard (track use) or in a real hot area, the car can actually overheat when run w/o a therm. And as mentioned, you do want the engine to get up to operating temp as soon as possible.
If you look inside the water pump, behind the therm, you will see a rubber seal and some cavities/flow channels. When the therm is closed, the coolant recirculates thru the block. When the therm fully opens, it pushes the plunger up against that internal rubber seal and closes the recirculation path, so all the coolant is pushed thru the radiator. W/o the therm, the recirc path is never blocked off, so you get partial flow thru the radiator and partial recirculation.
No big deal to run w/o a therm for testing or for limited use, but if you are driving hard (track use) or in a real hot area, the car can actually overheat when run w/o a therm. And as mentioned, you do want the engine to get up to operating temp as soon as possible.
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#8
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Floridan
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What Magk944 said is spot on and about how my radiator repair guy explained it. The liquid has to spend some time in contact with the heat in order to absorb it and take the heat to the radiator. I suspect there is a reason why vehicles come with a stat.
Woody
Woody
#10
For greater heat transfer, the higher the flow, the better. Turbulent flow has a significantly higher heat transfer coefficient than laminar flow, so high velocity is absolutely preferred, both for cooling the fluid going thru the heat exchanger (radiator) and for absorbing heat from the head/block.
If you look inside the water pump, behind the therm, you will see a rubber seal and some cavities/flow channels. When the therm is closed, the coolant recirculates thru the block. When the therm fully opens, it pushes the plunger up against that internal rubber seal and closes the recirculation path, so all the coolant is pushed thru the radiator. W/o the therm, the recirc path is never blocked off, so you get partial flow thru the radiator and partial recirculation.
No big deal to run w/o a therm for testing or for limited use, but if you are driving hard (track use) or in a real hot area, the car can actually overheat when run w/o a therm. And as mentioned, you do want the engine to get up to operating temp as soon as possible.
If you look inside the water pump, behind the therm, you will see a rubber seal and some cavities/flow channels. When the therm is closed, the coolant recirculates thru the block. When the therm fully opens, it pushes the plunger up against that internal rubber seal and closes the recirculation path, so all the coolant is pushed thru the radiator. W/o the therm, the recirc path is never blocked off, so you get partial flow thru the radiator and partial recirculation.
No big deal to run w/o a therm for testing or for limited use, but if you are driving hard (track use) or in a real hot area, the car can actually overheat when run w/o a therm. And as mentioned, you do want the engine to get up to operating temp as soon as possible.
This is correct, use a thermostat for the street, for racing you can remove it but you have to block the holes that allow for the warm up flow path when the stat is closed. Otherwise you will never have complete flow thru the rad. On a race car air flow to the rad is adjusted (with tape usually) to controll the temp.
So use the stat, if your car is over heating you have other issues.
#12
I totally hijacked this thread, as I was searching for the very answers everyone gave me. (The original post was from 2003)
My system tends to get fairly warm, and I found out that one of my fans (I have an 85.5 n/a 944) doesn't run at all. I have reason to believe that my fans are the culprit; as the original owner fancied himself a handyman and rather than replace parts when they stopped working or otherwise broke, he would just bootleg a fix. So on top of needing to replace my fans, I need to re-splice a proper connector to the passengers side of the fan-harness.
I've also replaced my temp sensor, and am working on fully and properly bleeding the system again. I just don't have a place to properly incline my vehicle, so I'm taking it to a local mall that has a multi-level parking structure to use that slope. ^______^ I'm also a bit nervous about getting too much coolant on the block, as I don't want to ruin anything.
My system tends to get fairly warm, and I found out that one of my fans (I have an 85.5 n/a 944) doesn't run at all. I have reason to believe that my fans are the culprit; as the original owner fancied himself a handyman and rather than replace parts when they stopped working or otherwise broke, he would just bootleg a fix. So on top of needing to replace my fans, I need to re-splice a proper connector to the passengers side of the fan-harness.
I've also replaced my temp sensor, and am working on fully and properly bleeding the system again. I just don't have a place to properly incline my vehicle, so I'm taking it to a local mall that has a multi-level parking structure to use that slope. ^______^ I'm also a bit nervous about getting too much coolant on the block, as I don't want to ruin anything.