shawn84&92

I have an 89 944 S2 that I am going to replace the chain tensioner pads. I have read several write ups on this, but I was wondering about the J tube seals. Do they have to be replaced or are they reusable? I bought new pads and a valve cover gasket set, but I didn't get the j tube seals

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,
Shawn

Mark944na86

The only write-up I've seen that discusses just the pads is this one, which seems to suggest re-use is OK:

http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm

I'll probably be doing this job myself in the next month ot two, let us know how you get on. Do you have any pointers to other write-ups?

Edit: Actually, after re-reading the write-up, the author _does_ suggest to use new crush washers. Oops. Sorry about the misinfo.

gtroth

Yes, they are crush washers so replace them.
If they are the same as on the S (proabably are) they are
N 013 807 4 and you'l need 4 (I paid $0.53 ea in 2003).

MOST IMPROTANT thing about those washers is not to drop them into your engine when you are removing or reinstalling (slippery). Stuff paper towels in all the passages where you don't want things to go.

Oh - also replace the pressure ring seals too (the grommets for the cover bolts)
If same as S it's 928 104 115 02 and you need 13.

shawn84&92

Thanks guys. I havn't been able to find them other than Porsche, and my closest dealer is 2 hrs away. Is there a supproting vendor that sells them or could I use some from a bolt and screw supplier?
Thanks,
Shawn

gtroth

I'd personally use Pelican Parts for the parts.

Mark944na86

Pelican says that part # has been superceded to 900-123-050-30, but when searching on 900-123-050-30 Pelican reports that as NLA (no longer available)! I guess I'll be on the phone to my friendly dealer next week...

FWIW, I've heard from people who have done this job that replacing the rubber seals and gaskets is not strictly necessary, but YMMV, I guess. Also, the part # for the grommets is 928 104 115 02, not 928 140 115 02, just to avoid confusion.

gtroth

That's a shame it's going to be a pain just to get the darned crush washers.
I replaced the gasket and the 4 seals around the spark plugs (928 104 443 08 for the S), and then the bolt grommets seaped a little after that. Those can be done one at a time without removing the cover at least, but I just don't like to risk breaking the cover bolts an additional time.

Thanks for catching my typo on the grommets - corected, above.

Mark944na86

I phoned my local dealership today to see what the availability of the the crush washers is, and they don't have any in Australia, and have to come in from Germany. They have about 5000 or so in stock there, however. :-) Will take about 10 days or so to come in. Part # N 013 807 4 ahs been superceded to part # 900-123-050-30.

95 cents each, including tax. I really don't know why people bitch so much about the prices of Porsche parts -- I think they provide an exceptional distribution service, personally.

shawn84&92

Ran into a bt of a problem. A previous owner put in studs to hold the tensioner. Is this common? I am going to have to remove the studs before I can pull the tensioner.

The good news is I found out a previous owner had replaced the timing belts, when I took it to have it done, and when I pulled th valve cover, the top tensioner pad had been replaced. I have no service records, but with these 2 things replaced, hopefully it was well maintained.

Any thoughts on the tensioner studs? It makes sense after reading about the bolts being stripped, but I wish they woulod have used longer bolts

gtroth

I'd love to see a pic. Bet you're right - someone stripped them last time. Are the studs too short, is that it? I'd personally proceed cautiously with whatever you do next with those fasteners - this could go down hill pretty quickly if something breaks. If you are certain the top pad is newish, consider leaving it alone. If it's not new, gotta replace it even if it's not worn - it's a car killing 20 year old piece of plastic.

Good luck!

shawn84&92

I will try to take pic. The top pad is off white in color, and no wear at all. The bottom pad is very dark brown, so I assume it was not replaced.

The problem is that the studs must have been put in after the tensioner was in place, because there is not enough slack in the chain when the tensioner is compressed to lift it up over the studs. The only other thing I can think of is pulling the drivers side cam and lifting it up with the cam and chain, but I don't want to ge that far into it.

My worry is that the previous owner used loctite or some kind of glue on the threads to keep the studs in place, and that they might break off in the head when I try to remove them.

gtroth

Yeah, I'd say the color difference in the top pad is proof enough that it's been changed.

Good description of the problem with the studs - I get it now. And I share your worry about the adhesive. Wish I had some new ideas for you. If it were me I think I'd leave it alone. How many miles on the car? I think around 160K you'll be thinking about changing the chain, so good time for you to replace the pads.

Photodan

I re-used the washers for the J-tube when I did the pads and all seems well. As mentioned before, don't lose them somewhere in the head. I think trying to keep those slippery little washers under control is the worst part of the job.

mikey_audiogeek

I lost one of the washers when I did mine. I don't recommend it. Never found it, hopefully it's sitting safely in the sump. I guess it'll turn up one day...

Riff

With the tensioner fully compressed, the top pad can slide off on one side. If you do that will you have enough clearance to pull the tensioner off the studs?

Good Luck!