944Ross

Since it turned OK with the new engine stuff in at some point, as noted above it's not likely in the engine, much more likely in the flywheel/clutch/BH. Did you ever rotate the crank after they were on? How about after the driveshaft was engaged in the clutch?

Van

If you used good assembly lube, nothing is "rusted" or "seized". Other than the crank, just the rods are steel.

I agree - sounds like a mechanical interference to me.

Think back - how well did it turn over while you did the clutch? How well did it turn over while you did the timing belts?

In a semi-controlled environment, engines don't just "seize" up. Unless they're left out in the rain or underwater for months.

Just my 2 cents.

Tom M'Guinn

Are you sure the driveshaft didn't get hung up on the pilot bearing? Lifter go ****-eyed in its bore? Dianostic sensor wedged into flywheel? Clutch not disengaging (especially if hydraulics messed with)?? These motors just don't seize up in two or three months. As much as I'd like marvel's mystery oil to solve your problem, I'd be might surprised if that helps.

xupkid2

Did you pay attention to the way you put the rod caps back on when you did the bearings? Did #'s match and also #'s on the same side? If they are backwards the motor will freeze. If that is done correctly then something must be jammed as it wouldnt freeze.

xsboost90

yeah i have motors that have been sitting for years and i can turn them by hand- im thinking ref sensor jammed or clutch etc binding up.

DANNiE

Ok... Did you plasti-gauge the bearing size before you bought and put new ones in..?

Also you mentioned you had it "on a stand"; do you mean the ones they use on old chevy engines that rolls around the room..? the kind of stand that bolts a bracket to the bolt holes at the back of the engine and lets all the weight on the engine weigh toward the front..?

if so you could have a bent/warped block now... 3 months on a stand like that is too long these are aluminum blocks not steel...

if its not the bearings im betting the block could be bent...

Banshee

Very interesting idea, if that is the case i would like to see a picture maybe if you can actually see it bent. Dannie, would you be able to look at it from afar and just see the thing warped?

theedge

I have had (as many others have) my engine on one of those stands for more then 3 months with zero issues. I could still turn it by hand. I very much doubt it is that.

M758

Yes. I had a freshly rebuild engine in a stand for over a year. No issues at all.

newspeed

To answer a few questions:

The engine was left on a stand with no oil/coolant and oil pan off for the duration. Never heard of a block bending while its on a stand??? is that even possible?

Rod caps were placed correctly with the stamp on the proper side and torqued correctly (assuming my torque wrench is accurate). I didn't use platigauge as the engine was perfect mechanically...bearing were done as a "while im in there" maintenance fix.

Timing belt and cam tower are off the car so its not a lifter or upper valve train issue. I removed the ref sensors and its still stuck so def not that.

I noticed the block was frozen before installing in the car and I'm pretty sure its not a mechanical interference. I installed as I thought it was a minor corrosion issue from sitting and would easily dislodge by putting it in gear and rocking it back and forth. I was wrong.

Thanks for all the tips so far...sounds like everyone is point to a mechanical interference. I highly doubt it as I know how careful I was installing everything, at least I hope its not it. Want to give it one more shot before even thinking about disassembling anything.

Is it safe to pour hot water into a cold block in the hopes or heating it up to possibly expand the metal to help it get spinning? any other safe way to heat up the block? I'm hoping that plus the crank soaking in oil might do it if its what I think it is.

944Ross

This clarifies a few points. It was stuck before installation, for one thing.

Did you go back with the exact same size and tolerance bearings, with no machining? But I think you said earlier it spun with all the rod caps/bearings on? Why did you have the engine apart in the first place? Was it a bad #2 rod bearing?

I don't see any hope of resolving this without pulling it back apart.

austin944

You mentioned a re-seal; is it possible something got into the oil pump gears when you replaced the front crank seal? What about through the oil pickup?

You should post your location. You may be near some members who can at least give you some moral support, if not more material support.

boostskillz

Even if the bearings are just a 'while i'm here' thing, you still need to measure, lol. Always measure, then measure again.

DANNiE

AGREED! Like I said before you should have plasti-gauged it bearings wear and so do the rod and crank journals...

Have you tried to crank the engine with the spark plugs removed..? could be Hydro-locked...

Rock

Id hate to say this, but if the engine is seized now, and it is NOT mechanical interference, then you have a trouble engine.

If somehow mystery oil did unfreeze it, I wouldn't trust that engine.

My first car sat for 6-7 years without being started and it didnt seize.


Im gonna go out on a limb here but.... is the car in neutral or in gear?